RedFred Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 I know the answer must be already out there somewhere on the internet, but for the life of me I can't find it. In most big builds I see people wiring batteries using bus bars, instead of just normal wire and lugs. Is there an actual advantage to do so? Or is it more of a convenience factor for not having to crimp a ton of wires? Any and all info appreciated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Convenience and to prevent a stacked cluster fuck of lugs connected to the battery terminals. You can tap holes in the buss bars to spread out the lug connections across the length of the buss bar rather than all on the battery terminals. Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadcicle Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 14 minutes ago, WalledSonic said: Convenience and to prevent a stacked cluster fuck of lugs connected to the battery terminals. You can tap holes in the buss bars to spread out the lug connections across the length of the buss bar rather than all on the battery terminals. This, plus it will hold the batteries together much better than wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 The cross sectional area of a bus bar can easily be bigger than any cable. This means that more current can be delivered out of (and into) the bank. When batteries are daisy chained with cable, after the first few batteries the cable wont be able to carry enough current to live up to the batteries full potential. Bus bars should not be the only thing holding the bank together. A tray or box should be made to hold them, along with a way to clamp them into it. In the event of an accident, you don't want several hundred pounds of batteries to be bouncing around the interior of the vehicle. I see a lot of builds where people rely on gravity to hold them in place but it is a disaster waiting to happen. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 In my build i used wires (check it out) but I normally run buss bars. Plus with buss bars you can make more connections for wires than there is battery terminals, which is nice when you need to run all kinds of equipment 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitchaford Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 When you're working with bigger wire, 1/0 and larger, it starts to get really difficult to manage and get onto the terminal. One or two lugs is ezpz but 3/4/5 and so on its a pain. It also looks like crap I picked up a pair of 14 inch long aluminum buss bars for $15 shipped. Hardware was maybe another $5 for 100pcs You can go from this spider looking thing To this which still looks like booty but its a lot easier to work with 2008 VW Jetta Team Fi 12 CT 4000.1 CT 125.4 PWX 6.5 80 PRS EB Flex 2/0 Second Skin ^^^ Build ^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathcards Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 easier to get a good connection vs. 5 or 6 lugs on top of each other where maybe one or two get a good connection or even none skar sk2500.1 0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz alpine HUvxi65 components on BA gt-275new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821 2 x-15 sundowns singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedFred Posted May 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Okay, all very good info to have. I like the idea of bus bars too, just needed some backing up before I spent more money lol Not sure if I'm allowed to ask (might turn into a vs thread?), but who do you guys go to buy bus bars from? I've got 6 of these http://www.sure-power.com/product/cd-technologies-high-rate-series-ups12-490mrlp/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitchaford Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 This is where I got mine from http://stores.ebay.com/stonerstoolsandrawmaterials/ They have aluminum and copper. Mine were cut clean and exact length. 2008 VW Jetta Team Fi 12 CT 4000.1 CT 125.4 PWX 6.5 80 PRS EB Flex 2/0 Second Skin ^^^ Build ^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 I bought on amazon. This website helps with specification of most conductive materials: https://www.copper.org/applications/industrial/DesignGuide/selection/ Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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