Which JY lithium would i need?

[06RTCharger]

9 hours ago, rocking.that.eclipse said:

I think that you are jumping on spending a lot of money on something you may not need. I'd start with the big 3 up front and running it on the stock battery for a little bit.

See what the voltage drop ends up being. I don't think that you will get max current draw out of your amps so assume that you will be pulling less than that most/if not all the time. 

also if you are really going with an SQ style build possibly look at caps to fill your voltage drop. If I remember right caps help with smoothing out voltage draw and can also pull some "noise" out of your alternator.

Yah i used to think caps were a waste/gimmic. But watching Steves video of his caps, ill consider it into my options. I want lithium for the sake of saving weight and space.

[Wishuponasub]

Idk how you feel about buying used but you can check the hot deals section for a decent deal on used lithium batts. There are no guarantees so that's a choice you would have to make.

[06RTCharger]

4 hours ago, Wishuponasub said:

Idk how you feel about buying used but you can check the hot deals section for a decent deal on used lithium batts. There are no guarantees so that's a choice you would have to make.

Thanks. Im not very trusting of used stuff, i always get screwed over. Tho i did take a huge risk on this LP amp lol. Im  more comfortable saving up for new stuff with a garantee.

[rocking.that.eclipse]

11 hours ago, 06RTCharger said:

Yah i used to think caps were a waste/gimmic. But watching Steves video of his caps, ill consider it into my options. I want lithium for the sake of saving weight and space.

you can get a xs power cap bank in a small battery platform too

 

http://4xspower.com/shop/super-banks/12v-500-super-banks/sb500-51r/

this is about as small a footprint as a lithium also

 

[06RTCharger]

12 hours ago, rocking.that.eclipse said:

you can get a xs power cap bank in a small battery platform too

 

http://4xspower.com/shop/super-banks/12v-500-super-banks/sb500-51r/

this is about as small a footprint as a lithium also

 

Do u know how to use those correctly? To get the best out of it. Would one regular starting battery and a supercap bank be enough electrical for what i have? Or do u need more batteries per supercap bank? I was tryna find how to apply those into a system but couldnt find anything talking about how to properly utilize them. Also i feel like i need to pay attention to my alternator output and make sure to not buy agm/supercaps/lithium that will need way more charging than my mechman 240 can do. 

Making sure all this stuff equals out is confusing as fk lol. 

[audiofanaticz]

The caps Steve is using inside a battery case, or the single style of caps people buy and make their own banks of are 2 completely different things..

[06RTCharger]

18 minutes ago, audiofanaticz said:

The caps Steve is using inside a battery case, or the single style of caps people buy and make their own banks of are 2 completely different things..

Do u think using a xs supercap bank with one regular starting battery is a good setup with my 240 mechman? Considering my amps and my regular fuctions of the car that will draw power. Or does it make more sense to have more batteries per supercapbank? 

 

[WalledSonic]

@06RTCharger read this

[audiofanaticz]

The only real reason they use a 60amp slow blow fuse is due to old competition classes (keep in mind these are old amps).

Many of the old competition brackets where made up according to your fuse rating.

So for example:
Class A would be 0-50amp fuses.

Class B would be 51-100amp fuses.

Class C would be 101-150amp fuses.
Class D would be 151-200amp fuses.

Typically a 1500 watt rms class d monoblock amp would carry a 150 amp rating, but since these are not class d amps and are not as efficient and their true fuse rating would be around 200amps.
So what competitors would do is use a legal loophole and test their systems to see what the best score they could do with a smaller fuse before it would blow. Since music is dynamic a smaller fuse would usually hold out for a good bit.
Case and point the 60 amp slow blow fuse would put you in Class B instead of being in Class D (where potentially your competing against people with smaller wattage amps).

Then you had other competition classes that went by manufactures ratings, so manufactures where quick to come out with crazy "low wattage amps" to give their competitors an edge.
So that 75 watts by 1 @ 8ohms rating is highly skewed and rather BS, considering that amp will make its same power at 8ohms as it would at 4ohms which is 1250 at 12.5volts, or 1500 at 14.4volts.

Another amp back in the day with the BS ratings was the Orion Concept 97.3 which was a 2 channel amp that made  0.5watts rms by 2 channels at 4 ohm / 1 watt rms bridged at 8ohms. 2 watts rms bridged at 4ohms, However once you wire that amp at 0.0078125 ohms it would make 1024 watts rms

Lots of loopholes in the competition rules back then... Like people using guitar tone doublers to send a higher frequency tone to their amp because you had to use the supplied cd, but it was easier to do a larger number at a higher frequency on the old spl meters.

Anyways Im rambling now I guess, but it seems like you dont understand the amp you bought so maybe that will shine some light on it.
That being said, get rid of your regular starting battery and swap it to a quality AGM battery of your choice (except optima).
The XS Power SB1000-31 is 1000F in a D3100 sized case weighing 22lbs. Its good for 8000 watts peak, so give or take 4000 watts rms, so you should be fairly close with just 1.

These can be found for about $829.99 on the EMF audio site which seems to be cheapest around right now.
The  only thing I would do is have multiple positive and negative runs of wire from the front batter to the rear battery in an attempt to reduce the resistance in the wire as much as possible.

 

[06RTCharger]

9 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:

The only real reason they use a 60amp slow blow fuse is due to old competition classes (keep in mind these are old amps).

Many of the old competition brackets where made up according to your fuse rating.

So for example:
Class A would be 0-50amp fuses.

Class B would be 51-100amp fuses.

Class C would be 101-150amp fuses.
Class D would be 151-200amp fuses.

Typically a 1500 watt rms class d monoblock amp would carry a 150 amp rating, but since these are not class d amps and are not as efficient and their true fuse rating would be around 200amps.
So what competitors would do is use a legal loophole and test their systems to see what the best score they could do with a smaller fuse before it would blow. Since music is dynamic a smaller fuse would usually hold out for a good bit.
Case and point the 60 amp slow blow fuse would put you in Class B instead of being in Class D (where potentially your competing against people with smaller wattage amps).

Then you had other competition classes that went by manufactures ratings, so manufactures where quick to come out with crazy "low wattage amps" to give their competitors an edge.
So that 75 watts by 1 @ 8ohms rating is highly skewed and rather BS, considering that amp will make its same power at 8ohms as it would at 4ohms which is 1250 at 12.5volts, or 1500 at 14.4volts.

Another amp back in the day with the BS ratings was the Orion Concept 97.3 which was a 2 channel amp that made  0.5watts rms by 2 channels at 4 ohm / 1 watt rms bridged at 8ohms. 2 watts rms bridged at 4ohms, However once you wire that amp at 0.0078125 ohms it would make 1024 watts rms

Lots of loopholes in the competition rules back then... Like people using guitar tone doublers to send a higher frequency tone to their amp because you had to use the supplied cd, but it was easier to do a larger number at a higher frequency on the old spl meters.

Anyways Im rambling now I guess, but it seems like you dont understand the amp you bought so maybe that will shine some light on it.
That being said, get rid of your regular starting battery and swap it to a quality AGM battery of your choice (except optima).
The XS Power SB1000-31 is 1000F in a D3100 sized case weighing 22lbs. Its good for 8000 watts peak, so give or take 4000 watts rms, so you should be fairly close with just 1.

These can be found for about $829.99 on the EMF audio site which seems to be cheapest around right now.
The  only thing I would do is have multiple positive and negative runs of wire from the front batter to the rear battery in an attempt to reduce the resistance in the wire as much as possible.

 

I always wondered what that was all about when i started looking into LP. Didnt make sense at all that its 75x1 lol. Thanks for the lil lesson on some car audio history.

yah i didnt understand the amp or amos in general that much, just look at ratings and general reviews to try to make my choices. 

Would i be able to use the sb500 with an xs d4900? How much would those together cover for me, also would my 240mechman be able to properly keep those charged? 

My car doesnt have a front battery, stock battery location is in the trunk tirewell, so would u suggest multiple alt to trunk runs? Im using 4/0 for the run between alt and battery and also for a big 3-4. Thanks for ur help man.