Nightmare9400 Posted November 15, 2017 Report Posted November 15, 2017 Going to be running all new 0g under the Hood and redoing the big 3. Also looking for better ground locations to help with voltage. Some say straight to the frame along with the factory grounds. Appreciate any recommendations.
Mr DeeBeez Posted November 16, 2017 Report Posted November 16, 2017 Yes. When doing big 3, you want to attach a ground to the frame, and keep existing factory grounds Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2)
Rich Schenk Posted November 16, 2017 Report Posted November 16, 2017 keep factory grounds. go to frame it you have one if not go to shock tower On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
Nightmare9400 Posted November 16, 2017 Author Report Posted November 16, 2017 Yes I have a frame (2000 Jeep grand Cherokee) & will do thanks !
Nightmare9400 Posted November 17, 2017 Author Report Posted November 17, 2017 What's the best way to secure the terminals to the frame. Ive seen a threaded drill bit be used before.
reedal Posted November 17, 2017 Report Posted November 17, 2017 you can tap it if you want, but not necessary. drill hole, clean area around hole to bare metal, place dielectric grease on clean area, attach lug to frame on greased area, bolt and nut into place. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
Nightmare9400 Posted December 3, 2017 Author Report Posted December 3, 2017 On 11/17/2017 at 2:37 PM, reedal said: you can tap it if you want, but not necessary. drill hole, clean area around hole to bare metal, place dielectric grease on clean area, attach lug to frame on greased area, bolt and nut into place. I'll do just that then ?
AlpineNut Posted December 3, 2017 Report Posted December 3, 2017 I always have one added to the engine block as well, and then to the frame. 73456w9vbwevsdb sodtbsorutnvsd sdtuspdun sd d f gsdfiusd gdf n
SnowDrifter Posted December 3, 2017 Report Posted December 3, 2017 If your car has a frame, go to the frame front and rear If it's a nobody, strut tower or other large load bearing piece part of the main body ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Kyblack76 Posted December 3, 2017 Report Posted December 3, 2017 2 hours ago, SnowDrifter said: If your car has a frame, go to the frame front and rear If it's a nobody, strut tower or other large load bearing piece part of the main body ^^^^^^ SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.