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80-250hz


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Can someone please recommend a driver that I can use to amplify 80-250hz? I have all the frequencies covered but this. I have an Orion Hcca 152 filtered at 20-80hz powered by an Orion XTR 2500.1Dz. I have 4 Skar Audio PAX 6.5's, and 4 VX35-ST powered by a SKv2 200.4 @2ohms. I have set the subsonic at 250hz and the LPF set at 3khz on channels 3&4 for the 6.5's, and the HPF set @ 3khz on channels 1&2 for the tweets. The 6.5's have a rattle in them under power at frequencies lower than that. I have 4 Orion XTR 2 way 6x8's in the doors powered by a Sony MEX-XB120BT. The head unit is great. I hooked my SMD DD1 up to it at 40hz and 1khz test tones with less than 1% distortion at max volume. The head unit pushes 45x4 rms. The crossover is built in to the 6x8's. I know I am playing that frequency range thru them but it isn't loud enough to be heard. I have been looking at 8 inch woofers. I am building a console in my Ford F150 (pics soon) that will incorporate the mids, my amps, and the midbass woofers (hopefully). I got a 4 inch turbo fan and a temp switch to run it. I'm gonna run a hose from my ac vent hooked to the fan to help keep the amps cool. I'm putting the tweets in the dash using a hole saw (maybe). I have considered door pods, but the way my doors are designed, there really isn't an appropriate place to set them. This a SQ system with a bit of SPL. I have become very indecisive at the moment. I have spent much more than I set out to spend. I have bought tools and gauges that I didn't budget for..lol  Any recommendations and the reason why you recommend them would be greatly appreciated. I really want to put a cap on this build and call it finished. I have a Hifonics Zeus 2416.1D that I can use to power the drivers. It is around 1200 watts rms @1ohm. That should be plenty enough power for midbass (I hope) I guess I could buy another amp if need be. Thanks guys

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Ok. I did not answer the last thread tho the response has been on my mind. I will share. I know this information is not new, but this is the reason I need a driver for this frequency. The audible frequency range is broke down into 7 categories; sub bass (20-80hz), bass (80-250hz), mid bass (250-500hz), midrange (500-2khz), upper midrange (2k-4khz), presence (4k-6khz), and brilliance (6k-20khz). To get the clearest possible sound, especially under high power, there should be a driver crossed at each of the ranges. Now, as car audio enthusiasts we do not concern ourselves with all of these frequencies, its just not feasible to fit this many drivers and amps in our automobiles. However, there are drivers manufactured to cover each of the ranges. Each size driver best covers one of the ranges. For example a 18-15" sub-woofer is best suited to drive the sub bass range. When you start playing higher then the sub bass range on a sub woofer, the quality of the sound begins to suffer. If you are using a 12" woofer, the bass frequency range sounds much better, but your sub bass range suffers a bit. We all know a 15 plays the lows much better than a 12. As you go up the scale the size of the driver needed to sound good decreases. The smaller cone area is better suited to play the faster cycles. Sure you can get good sound by using a 12 to cover sub bass and bass, or an 8 to cover midbass and midrange, but great sound comes when you relieve the driver from the extra frequencies overworking it as it tries to play too many different sounds. We do the same thing with tweets and 6.5's. Speakers last much longer when they play smaller frequency ranges. Of course this is all dependent upon the listeners preference. Some focus only on sub bass, and so they get the best driver they can for that range and nothing more. As we grow in sound quality we decide to upgrade the higher frequencies, and some get component sets being completely satisfied with the sound that is being reproduced. Nothing wrong with that. Me, I want to feel like I am sitting in the middle of a symphony, hearing every sound clearly and accurately, and I want to feel the sound that I am hearing. I have compromised the upper frequencies, because I have a limited amount of space and do not wish to purchase 12's, 10's, & 3.5's to go with my tweets, sub, mids, and midbass. Like many others I like the lower frequencies. The system I am trying to complete is simply a 4 way SQ system utilizing 4 different size drivers to produce the various frequency ranges. Instead of having a generic 4 way speaker to cover these sounds, I am breaking it down, crossing it over, and amplifying them myself. I know there are some ppl out there that like the midbass thump and have focused on that frequency range, and to those ppl I am asking which driver did they use and how much power did they put on it to achieve the desired response.

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I do sq.  A 3 way is the maximum thats needed. Usually an 8" midbass is used from 80-500, a 3 or 4" midrange will cover from 500-4k and tweeter from 4k up.  

 

Who ever told you that you need a spesker to cover 7 differant frequency ranges or wherever you read that is wrong.  You by ni means need 7 differant sized speakers.  

Less is more. A 3 way front stage is optimal for this

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2 hours ago, MinistryMan said:

The audible frequency range is broke down into 7 categories; sub bass (20-80hz), bass (80-250hz), mid bass (250-500hz), midrange (500-2khz), upper midrange (2k-4khz), presence (4k-6khz), and brilliance (6k-20khz). To get the clearest possible sound, especially under high power, there should be a driver crossed at each of the ranges.

No, that is not how you get the clearest possible sound.  Crossovers can color the sound and negatively affect sound quality.  There is a point of diminishing returns when it comes to the complexity of your system.  Look at $50,000+ home audio speakers, they are mostly 3-way systems, not 7-way systems.  

2 hours ago, MinistryMan said:

If you are using a 12" woofer, the bass frequency range sounds much better, but your sub bass range suffers a bit.

No it doesn't.  This is entirely dependant on the specifics of the sub and enclosure design. 

2 hours ago, MinistryMan said:

Speakers last much longer when they play smaller frequency ranges.

Only if you try to play them to low and too loudly.  

 

I understand your goals, but you are way over-complicating what you need to do.  Simplicity is your friend.  
 

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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I have only 5 speakers in my Sound Quality Competition vehicle. 

Speakers play only a 1/4 of the performance spectrum. Dynamic “dead on balls accurate” powerful amplification plays a MAJOR role in a Sound Quality. 

I have a compilation of Sound Quality material on this forum somewhere. Find it, read it, know it brother. 

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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I'm glad there are some out there that get it. If a 2 way, or 3 way works for you guys, that's great. Put some power on it. Fortunately, there are some manufacturers out there that understand sound. Can anyone explain the purpose of this piece of equipment, and others like it?

https://smile.amazon.com/DS18-XM6LD-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01HGOXOIW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=5+way+active+crossover&qid=1555699763&s=gateway&sr=8-2

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