akuma4u Posted May 2, 2020 Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 Hey i just want to know, when making a slot ported box with L bend, does the 2nd port wall that runs the width of the box, have to be behind the sub? Kind of hard to explain. Pls look at photo attached. The box im building has a very short port length so once it bends its only 2 or 3 inches... So my sub will not be infront of any wall. Is this OK or will it cause problems? The top pic is what my box is going to look like. Is that ok? Or should it always look like the bottom pic where the port wall is behind the sub magnet? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 2, 2020 Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 No and no “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 2, 2020 Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 The only thing is the subwoofer has to have at least the same amount of breathing room from the wall it’s facing as the diameter of the hole on the bottom of the magnet (the pole vent). So if the pole vent is 1” in diameter, the back of that subwoofer magnet has to have 1” of room behind it from any wall, be it a port wall or regular wall or bottom or whatever. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted May 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 31 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: The only thing is the subwoofer has to have at least the same amount of breathing room from the wall it’s facing as the diameter of the hole on the bottom of the magnet (the pole vent). So if the pole vent is 1” in diameter, the back of that subwoofer magnet has to have 1” of room behind it from any wall, be it a port wall or regular wall or bottom or whatever. There is plenty of room in between pole vent and port wall or back of enclosure wall. So as long as there is sufficient space (1 to 2 inches i find is the bare minimum) the port wall doesnt have to be behind the magnet. So, as long as there is 1 to 2 inches clearance, the top drawing will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted May 2, 2020 Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 3 hours ago, akuma4u said: There is plenty of room in between pole vent and port wall or back of enclosure wall. So as long as there is sufficient space (1 to 2 inches i find is the bare minimum) the port wall doesnt have to be behind the magnet. So, as long as there is 1 to 2 inches clearance, the top drawing will work. yessir, either pic will work just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted May 2, 2020 Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 3 hours ago, akuma4u said: There is plenty of room in between pole vent and port wall or back of enclosure wall. So as long as there is sufficient space (1 to 2 inches i find is the bare minimum) the port wall doesnt have to be behind the magnet. So, as long as there is 1 to 2 inches clearance, the top drawing will work. Get as much room as possible between pile vent and port wall as possible, had 3" between my hds2.108s and the dust caps actually dented in still....was 4 8s on 3k, and only subs with port wall behind them sucked caps in....didn't make same mistake with my new box for sure. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted May 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 26 minutes ago, ehall8702 said: Get as much room as possible between pile vent and port wall as possible, had 3" between my hds2.108s and the dust caps actually dented in still....was 4 8s on 3k, and only subs with port wall behind them sucked caps in....didn't make same mistake with my new box for sure. Theres plenty of room like 4 inches or so maybe more. I was just curious if the sub had to have the port wall behind it or not in order for the box to work properly. Cuz this design i made the L bend is mad small and its almost not even an L its like an I 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 48 minutes ago, akuma4u said: Theres plenty of room like 4 inches or so maybe more. I was just curious if the sub had to have the port wall behind it or not in order for the box to work properly. Cuz this design i made the L bend is mad small and its almost not even an L its like an I 🤣 Nah that works, have built many boxes with a straight slot port. Actually more efficient that way, be happy URS worked out that way.everytime a port bends or turns you lose port velocity and affect the subs efficiency ( atleast that's what I understand from the MANY things I have read and researched and from all the boxes I have built). 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted May 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 4 hours ago, ehall8702 said: Nah that works, have built many boxes with a straight slot port. Actually more efficient that way, be happy URS worked out that way.everytime a port bends or turns you lose port velocity and affect the subs efficiency ( atleast that's what I understand from the MANY things I have read and researched and from all the boxes I have built). I had no idea about if it was ok to do a non bending slot port, it looked weird when i designed it so i needed verification it would work before i got it built. Nice to know its more efficient this way. I learned something new today. Yay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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