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Recommendations for system with stock electrical and this box.


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7 hours ago, CstrokerV said:

Read the comments in the video specifically Tony D’Amore ...further more you don’t set amps at clipping you do it at 1% t.h.d which the video didn’t show or pay any attention to where it was and what the speaker did if anything

I couldn't find his comment... There's over 600 comments and I got tired of looking though.

 

And maybe in competition level, super high dollar, high power setups where you will be pushing the limits then maybe setting an amp to a specific THD might be the only way, but in these smaller systems I believe as long as i avoid heavy Distortion and clipping I should be fine.

 

In the early 2000s I bought amps, turned the gain up until the subwoofer started distorting very noticeably, normally full gain, and then backed it off just enough to stop the distortion... Only time I burned up any voice coils is when I way overpowered a subwoofer. Never burnt up an amp. And I've had dozens. On my DD build in 2005, where I was running multiple large subs, big amps, upgraded electrical and all, then I paid to have it tuned properly. But I was after every DB I could get and equipment was expensive.

 

This time I used a DMM, set amp to voltage accordingly. Watts times ohms squared. And watched the clip light. If I went over by anything more than a volt and a half, I could see the clip meter come on. Set accordingly, the clip light only flickers here and there on the hardest hits and low freq bass drops. Mostly below 35hz. 

 

 

While I'm not denying what you are saying, I don't believe in my situation an expensive meter to correctly set the gain to perfection is a necessity.

Singer 250amp Alt, Singer PCM bypass harness

Titan8 Lithium Underhood safe BCI PWR-S5

Big 3 W/ dual runs of power/ground. All 1/0awg OFC

SounDigital EVO 5K amp, Two 15" Fi SSD subs

Next Level Fabrication @ 7 cubes net, tuned to 32HZ 

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No if you are doing high spl then people like to set it at clipping to get as much power as possible for daily you do it by the 1% T.H.D ... I only do 1 to 2 systems a year and the 150 on a dd-1 was well worth if 

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50 minutes ago, CstrokerV said:

No if you are doing high spl then people like to set it at clipping to get as much power as possible for daily you do it by the 1% T.H.D ... I only do 1 to 2 systems a year and the 150 on a dd-1 was well worth if 

Why would you want any distortion (thd) going to your subwoofers or speakers, be it 1% or whatever, no matter what you are using your car audio set up for? The cheap home made distortion detector detects distortion. Done and done. You are making things unnecessary and overboard with the commentary and false information. I have this under control dude. I think you just don’t like me and wanna chime in behind me trying to make me look wrong or step on my toes. This makes 2 threads in a row now. Chill out. If you would of stayed in your own lane, then you wouldn’t of looked crazy by giving bad advice, saying tune an amp to 1% total harmonic distortion. The only thing the dd1 does that the home made distortion detector can’t do is detect distortion on head units and midrange and high frequency readings on a mids and highs amp. Both distortion detectors detect Total Harmonic Distortion on a bass amp, even 1%. What you have been doing and are still doing is what we like to call “doing too much”.

 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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No it doesnt Tony already said what that is doing in that guys video its detecting modulation from the amp is what i want to say i remember him saying my next day off ill find his comments and post it here ... what are you talking about... its wrong to try to set an amp that way . ...  No if you set an amp right before clipping the 1% thd is usually already there the dd-1 makes it so its slightly before the 1% thd  the distortion light is the 1% thd and you turn it slightly down.. so yeah that point i was wrong i meant right before that 1% thd happens... if i still had my dads oscope i would show you that right before clipping 1% thd is already in the wave im pretty sure Tony shows this in one of his videos .....  Me misinformation lol  you have given plenty just in that one thread..... Setting gains with the speaker and cap  IS WRONG AND MISINFORMING People 

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2 hours ago, CstrokerV said:

No it doesnt Tony already said what that is doing in that guys video its detecting modulation from the amp is what i want to say i remember him saying my next day off ill find his comments and post it here ... what are you talking about... its wrong to try to set an amp that way . ...  No if you set an amp right before clipping the 1% thd is usually already there the dd-1 makes it so its slightly before the 1% thd  the distortion light is the 1% thd and you turn it slightly down.. so yeah that point i was wrong i meant right before that 1% thd happens... if i still had my dads oscope i would show you that right before clipping 1% thd is already in the wave im pretty sure Tony shows this in one of his videos .....  Me misinformation lol  you have given plenty just in that one thread..... Setting gains with the speaker and cap  IS WRONG AND MISINFORMING People 

No it’s not. Setting an amp to 1% distortion is wrong. Once that speaker hums then that is the detection of distortion, no humming, no percentage of distortion, not even 1%. I can tune an amp by ear and can hear distortion in subwoofers in or out of the enclosure, even one percent. So I know for a fact the barevids distortion detector works. Because I use that and an oscilloscope to double check. The barevids dude compares the distortion detector to an oscilloscope and shows how it is more sensitive and better at detecting distortion. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Here's something that the guy from DC Audio told me and a few other subwoofer builders told me.

 

Power handling statements from a manufacturer are just absolutely inaccurate.

they really don't know how you're going to use the subwoofers and what kind of box you're going to use, they can give a general guideline on the power they can take 4 recommended box size maybe but it's all going to be dependent on the box itself how much power that the subwoofers will take

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The SFB1000D has been ordered.

 

And I've been debating between the sundown 10" E series (500rms each) or the SA series (750rms each) to go with that amp if I decide to switch subs. The SA series obviously look better, but they'd be underpowered. The E series would be better matched up with RMS, but not as good of subs.

 

But the question is, would the underpowered but higher quality SAs still outperform the properly powered E series? 

 

Either way, they'll be in 1.5 cubed each ported and tuned to 30. So slightly bigger box than suggested, which is good for underpowered subs I believe....

Singer 250amp Alt, Singer PCM bypass harness

Titan8 Lithium Underhood safe BCI PWR-S5

Big 3 W/ dual runs of power/ground. All 1/0awg OFC

SounDigital EVO 5K amp, Two 15" Fi SSD subs

Next Level Fabrication @ 7 cubes net, tuned to 32HZ 

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