trainman0978 Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 First off, If you are gonna use the caulk on every box you build... Here is a little tip. You can make it look ALOT cleaner doing a couple of different things. Cut the tip on the tube really close to the end. You don't need a big ass hole the same same diameter as the tibe to push the caulk out. This is why the end is tapered off, so you can vary the thickness of the bead you dispense. Cut it at a angle , 45 degrees or better. Just nip off the very edge of the tip. ... When you go to smooth the bead out with your finger, get a cup of warm water and put a little dish soap in it, stir it up good, keep stirring and the suds will settle down. Dip your finger into the soapy water mix before you touch your freshly laid caulk. The caulk won't stick to your finger and will spread out nice and smooth and you won't end up with caulk several inches wide and all over the inside edges of your box. keep a rag in hand clean your "putty knife/finger" often and wet your finger just as much. Your results will look alot better, and you will get a more "professional" finish , kinda like painters and tile guys do in new home construction..... Secondly, Why is the end of the MDF all chewed up on the long bottom piece? Where is the table saw and the circular saw ? I think you are getting in way too much of a hurry. If you have access to the tools, use them. Tools are built for that purpose. You should not be making a straight square cut with a jigsaw if you could do it with a table saw or circular saw and a guide fence or straight edge of some kind clamped down to guide the saw. The MDF looks kinda "bowed" or warped in the pics. It may just be the pics doing it, I don't know. I can tell you this , with all the heat, humidity and the rain showers we get around here, you should keep that MDF away from moisture. If you are storing it under that shed, it will literally absorb moisture from the humidity in the air. The dew in the morning air will go to it like a sponge. You probably won't notice it with the naked eye until it is too late and the board is garbage. Even if it doesn't appear to have water damage done , it may be. Water damage, even from dew and the steamy humid conditions after a afternoon storm can and will weaken the wood. The glue will soften, the particles in the sheet will swell and the board will slowly start to warp. try to store it inside the shed , and out of the open air. Even a workshop without insulation will be fine. If you can' lay it flat, off the floor ( lay it on some 2x4 s or something ) stand it up on the long end and don't store it directly on the ground, even in a shop. And especially on concrete. Concrete holds moisture, so set it on some scraps of wood or saw horses, and try to store it as vertical as possible. MDF is not like regular tree lumber. It is a engineered material, and as strong and durable as it is in a enclosure or structural build, moisture is essentially the kryptonite that will make it worthless. exposure to moisture is just the same as soaking it in a pool of water. Not gonna criticize your work cause we all gotta start and learn somehow. But slow down, take your time, you don't even have everything to finish this up yet anyway, so why rush it ? Plan your build out, make some blue prints, measure everything twice , and then think about the cut, measure it again, then make the cut. Your passion for the hobby is certainly there. Get to know your skill level and don't try to outdo yourself until you get the basics down first. Every body has done shitty work once, rather they admit it or not is another thread for another day. 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue my upgrades and "build" thread. My Kulicki Box Build -Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars -Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash ) -JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi - Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box. -Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio -All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0, -270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum- -2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz. Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties
Kicker Guy Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 Oh my bad looked like a nail to me.... guess I was wrong. Oh well can't be perfect. Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1 Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood. Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2 Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz
Kicker Guy Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 yeah your a dealer for DC but your gonna RUN Fi BTL's, and Rusty wont return your calls or emails Geeee I wonder why??? maybee he gets tired of listening to you Bullshit about how your gonna do this and that and this and that. I delcare you, The King of the Bullshitters ( on SMD anyhow), from now on everyone please call Dustin, King BS of SMD just like last nite huh dustin? ship your truck to me and have me build it, dude you dont gotta lie to kick it. Funny because its true. Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1 Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood. Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2 Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz
Stephen Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 The caulk won't stick to your finger and will spread out nice and smooth and you won't end up with caulk several inches wide and all over the inside edges of your box. sorry had to i lol'd you can cook bacon shirtless if you're not a pussy...lol not hatin, but am i wrong here it looks as if the amp is not grounded its hooked directly to the battery. it that the way it should be. DC POWER
wL<3bass Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 yeah your a dealer for DC but your gonna RUN Fi BTL's, and Rusty wont return your calls or emails Geeee I wonder why??? maybee he gets tired of listening to you Bullshit about how your gonna do this and that and this and that. I delcare you, The King of the Bullshitters ( on SMD anyhow), from now on everyone please call Dustin, King BS of SMD just like last nite huh dustin? ship your truck to me and have me build it, dude you dont gotta lie to kick it. that bolded statement had me roflin' David your one funny guy seriously! :lol: :lol: Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
wL<3bass Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 keep a rag in hand clean your "putty knife/finger" often and wet your finger just as much. sorry had to i lol'd This part made me laugh... Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
dwright27 Posted June 30, 2008 Author Report Posted June 30, 2008 yeah your a dealer for DC but your gonna RUN Fi BTL's, and Rusty wont return your calls or emails Geeee I wonder why??? maybee he gets tired of listening to you Bullshit about how your gonna do this and that and this and that. I delcare you, The King of the Bullshitters ( on SMD anyhow), from now on everyone please call Dustin, King BS of SMD just like last nite huh dustin? ship your truck to me and have me build it, dude you dont gotta lie to kick it. well, i found somebody who is more local, and WAYYYY cheaper to do my wall and trim panel. 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer
EricR Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 this business is like the tattoo business.....if you want your shit done right, don't expect to pay bottom dollar. and i agree with david also. i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
TrippiN Posted June 30, 2008 Report Posted June 30, 2008 i just wasted 7 pages of my life....wow... well ty for the laughs amongst the way...david, kingsuv...etc..
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