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Where/who did you buy the sub from so I know not to buy from them?

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that can happen to any woofer at any time....that spot takes a lot of abuse. Reglue it if you can...i know I COULD :)


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Where/who did you buy the sub from so I know not to buy from them?

audioque im sure

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that can happen to any woofer at any time....that spot takes a lot of abuse. Reglue it if you can...i know I COULD :)

ooooooooooooooooooooooo. he's calling oyu out man. go get the glue and report.

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The HDC3 uses the same motor/basket design as the DD subs doesn't it?

I read a big article somewhere about why this happens, it's because of the way the motor is made to prevent the coil/former from bottoming out, instead the former/spider/cone joint just hits the top plate. This makes the woofer somewhat prone to coming apart like yours has if driven hard.

If the spider hits the top plate at very high power and the coil is still being pushed into the motor it has a tendency to do what you see here - this is why competitors running DD occasionally see the cones blow up rather spectacularly - DD puts some serious overkill into the neck joint (CA soaked cord) and it tends to be the weakest thing that lets go.

All that said, it shouldn't be too hard to repair. Even if you just take it to a hi-fi speaker repair place, they should be able to glue the spider back onto the former... just don't be surprised if it happens again :P

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That sucks,there might be the 1/10th you lost by.

you think..lol

im no expert but it looks like a crappy glue job

maybe...

thats pretty gay "you compete so no new woofer"

damn that sucks though

yea i know..i wish AQ had some kinda of team or compeditor fixing thing..

re glue it thats all

been there 100 times

got more pics of that woofer

what kind of glue and where?

should i do the other one even tho its fine?

and what kind of pics are you looking for?

A few guys on caraudio.com had a similar issue - I think that because the glue is extremely hard it eventually cuts away the spider at the joint if the drivers are continually pushed to more than their design intention level of excursion.

I don't think that would happen with their suggested 1000 watts RMS :)

im search for it over there and see what comes up

*cough*so when can i become apart of team sundown??*cough*

Well over excursion is always an issue with former separation, You can put a small amount of ca glue where the spider meets the former and be good to go again.

No need for a complete recone imo

meaning me playing chooped and screwed in a box tuned to 40hz? or nah i think im going to go back to 35hz tuning..

Where/who did you buy the sub from so I know not to buy from them?

www.audioque.com but dont take this as a thread to not buy from AQ there good ppls and DJ is cool as hell i talk to him prolly twice a week..

PS

anyone want to suggest some ca glue? i have some from my R/C career will that work?

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meaning me playing chooped and screwed in a box tuned to 40hz? or nah i think im going to go back to 35hz tuning..

Yep, that would do it. Massive unloading of the sub, any other sub would bottom out and kill the former/coil but instead you just tore the spider a little :) Even 35hz tuning mightn't save you there.

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10.x volts fo' life!

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Yep, that would do it. Massive unloading of the sub, any other sub would bottom out and kill the former/coil but instead you just tore the spider a little :) Even 35hz tuning mightn't save you there.

drop it down to 28 and you might be good.

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playing below f3 is never ?good? lol

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