Neo_frog Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 I would think that to a certain point, a thicker baffle would help keep a more linear progression when subs are getting a lot of power due to the way it loads on the cutouts. Am I wrong here? And when would it start to lose effectiveness or be detrimental to performance if it's true? Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
lanman31337 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 I'm going to have to go ahead and say yes. With a thinner baffle, it has a tendency to flex. Get rid of the flex, the waves and pressure aren't scattered, and you enter the zen state It would start to lose effectiveness (and get pricey) after the point the baffle stop flexing. 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160
roscoe1129 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 Plus you want to take the chance that your subs mounting ring is tweaking along with the baffle??? I sure dont... Thicker baffle FTW! Some people need a sympathetic pat... on the head...with my hammer Scientia est Vox "In Nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti" DONT BE AFRAID TO USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!! SMD SUPER BUYER/SELLER
Neo_frog Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Posted April 13, 2009 Well, I wasn't so much concerned with flex. That's not a problem. I'm talking about when you dump massive power into a sub (20+k), the cone tends to flex and motor loses linearity. I would think that having it extend back (like 4" thick baffle housing an 18 for example) around the motor, it would create it's own little loading environment assisting in control. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
Nightshade Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 I'm not completely sure about linearity, but the thicker you make the baffle the more it tends to load the subs. If you are doing more than 2 layers of mdf or burch make sure that you take a roundover bit to the inside of the back of the sub cutouts. It will help the air to escape off the back of the cone and flow into the box chamber much quicker. 2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo 1 Sundown Audio SCV2000 1 Sundown Audio X15 V2 1 XS Power D3100 Audio Control LC6i Stock Deck 146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz 2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore ChampionHighest NSPL Scores to date:154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz
uhoh_45 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 also gotta watch out for flex though as everyone said i had a 4.5" thick baffle (6 layers .75") and i was still getting some flex in it R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log
uhoh_45 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 but i think with 15"-21" subs thicker baffles help like that but doesnt help with smaller subs with big motors on tempro i seen this and figured this is what your talkn bout Originally posted by augustijnen Peter:when i got the subs in i saw a problem seems i dont have enough space behind the subs the space is 1.5748" 4cm from rounding on the wall to the magnet so i am goiing to take out some wood if i dont do it i will get suround problems R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log
Boon Posted April 14, 2009 Report Posted April 14, 2009 It's a tradeoff. If you extend the baffle back too far you run into problems with extreme pressure building up behind the cone, this can cause really shitty oscillation, coil rocking if the pressure is uneven or blown cones/surrounds. 10.x volts fo' life!
wL<3bass Posted April 14, 2009 Report Posted April 14, 2009 I'm not gonna lie that pik with all the TRFs is downright pure sexy Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
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