DC vs. Fi, sell me.

[Crump]

I say go two 12" bl's i have the 08 model and it doesnt get warm at all unless i use a bass knob too much. I give mine about 1400 watts and it seems to handle it fine. The 09 seems to have a bigger magnet and motor (correct me if im wrong), but I have heard nothing but good things about dc also. So i think itll just come down to what you wanna spend.

[VistaV6]

Is there a DC rep on the forums here?

[Neo_frog]

Is there a DC rep on the forums here?

WCA Rusty is the guy you want to speak with. You can also go to their website.

It's hard to give you a definitive answer on what's "better" per se.

If you are going to do 3k, I'd say go with some XLs. You'd be giving them rated power and you could upgrade the amp down the road once you get a feel for their performance.

If you are going with 2k on a daily driver for musical quality alone, go with the Fi Qs. They are all outstanding products though. I've run Fi and have a buddy running one XL 12 in his car on about 1800W and the thing slams.

Prices are comparable as well.

[redbaron80]

The Fi BTL is a VERY strong and durable sub. I played them harder than anybody and NEVER EVER had a problem, and that is with 4000+ watts to each.

I will give a review of the DC Level 5, once I have mine installed.

[ALPINE408]

doesn't dual mean 2 haha

thats the only flaw I see in Fi's designs because they are basically plugged.

apparently its a plunger effect where the hot air within the coil gets pulled out while cold air gets pulled in but if you heat the coil up where is the cold air coming from?

you do you know you SHOULD NOT get subs that hot anyways so how is it a flaw? we do it by putting them in the wrong box for more output or higher spl and over power it causeing it to heat up and like i said i i have found fi/aa to be more forgiving than the dc so again how is it a flaw if it works

i have a set of 15's in the right box and giving them rms SLAMS ALL DAY full tilt no getting warm

[AI James]

response to thehoe

i didnt lump t3 inthere because he didnt ask about t3, so i didnt feel a need to put them in there.

as far as my last post about please tell us whyones better quality that was meant towards noobtastic to tell me why DC is a better product as he was the one who stated better customer service and product.. i know how the woofers work ijust would like to see whats "better" engineering or parts wise since hes on the inside track and may know something i dont know

[Haydog17]

I'd go with one Lvl 4 12 or 15

[AI James]

I'd go with one Lvl 4 12 or 15

and probably fry it on the power he wants to run

[RamenNoodles]

Scott and Nick from Fi are great guys. From my past experiences with DC, I dont really love them like I do my Fi woofers. In some cases the DCs had more of a flat response compared to Fi woofers.

On my BTL, I was throwing it 3500 rms in a daily box in 2.6 cubes which is on the big side for that much power, but only a few times did it even get warm, and that was after EXTENDED full tilt use. I have felt other brands of woofers get extremely hot only after 20 seconds or so.

Plus the one major thing I like about Fi is, you have the option to customize your woofer right there, pricing is right there and isnt subject to change depending on who you are or how important you are in the audio community. Same price in almost all cases. You pick an upgrade and it tells you exactly how much its going to be. Im not a fan at all of the PMing for prices, I think that is just stupid and unnecessary

And please dont take what I said as a stab at DC or any other company that uses these methods, I am just sharing my experience and thought about how things work. I know a lot of guys are very pleased with their subs and thats all that matters.

[wL<3bass]

why not go with a t3 tss 12 or 15?

I know James could jump in with his experience with the 10"

as far as DC vs. Fi you will get a great product no matter what.

it seems to me that DC will take more power over the rated longer compared to Fi that gets warm pretty quick.

and Alpine which Fi sub were you talking about with the pole vent?

You must be clipping your BL b/c I have not one heat problems with my BLs.

Scott and Nick from Fi are great guys. From my past experiences with DC, I dont really love them like I do my Fi woofers. In some cases the DCs had more of a flat response compared to Fi woofers.

On my BTL, I was throwing it 3500 rms in a daily box in 2.6 cubes which is on the big side for that much power, but only a few times did it even get warm, and that was after EXTENDED full tilt use. I have felt other brands of woofers get extremely hot only after 20 seconds or so.

Plus the one major thing I like about Fi is, you have the option to customize your woofer right there, pricing is right there and isnt subject to change depending on who you are or how important you are in the audio community. Same price in almost all cases. You pick an upgrade and it tells you exactly how much its going to be. Im not a fan at all of the PMing for prices, I think that is just stupid and unnecessary

And please dont take what I said as a stab at DC or any other company that uses these methods, I am just sharing my experience and thought about how things work. I know a lot of guys are very pleased with their subs and thats all that matters.

I give both of my woofers 1500wrms+ and have no heat problems whatsoever.....they don't ever get stinky....I can drive for 20-30mintues full tilt with no heat problems....