what I do for direct connect subs.

[1992Chevy K1500]

I'll take my "massive" amounts of electrical loss through solder rather than having one of those caps somehow coming undone and shorting my speaker leads.

Yep. but it done right, there's no chance of that.

I twist the wires together, put the cap on, wrap it in electrical tape, heat shrink it. Works great.

[HHR Ed]

X2 solder creates resistance, SO twisting the wires and putting a cap on them will yield THE BEST electrical flow of ANY type of connection.

Actually that is not correct.

Solder is the best electrical connection possible.

There is almost no loss in the connection.

The solder actually combines with the wire to form a new alloy and creates a permanent electrical and mechanical bond between the 2 wires.

This connection point is actually stronger than the wire itself and often times yields a lower resistance due to more mass of conductive metal.

Now_

2 wires twisted with a cap on top, this has much resistance due to the fact that the wires are only touching eachother on the surface, and there are pockets of air in between the twisted strands.

Not to mention that they can be pulled apart with little effort.

And twist caps dont always have conductive threads inside, they simply hold the wires together like a piece of tape.

So

Best Connection possible = Twist and Solder.

[Crump]

Best Connection possible = Twist and Solder.

I understand that, but honestly if the wires wont come undone then its still a good electrical connection. My dad and I have used these on houses w/ 120 volt and all that good stuff and they havent failed us yet. I understand its a different type deal (AC vs DC voltage) but I believe that this connection is better than the alternative of twisting two 8 gauge wires into an amp. I just bought the proper size for two 8 gauge wires and I honestly cant see these things coming off without someone really trying to. i.e. it wont come off inside the box, because itll be secure to the box with either hot glue of zip tied to the bracing. So I think these are the easiest and the most realiable thing next to solder.

Other ?, How long are the direct connects on these subs? Long enough to get from a sub to a bolt terminal at the back of the box?

[Neel]

Straight out of the MECP Basic Installation Technician Study Guide

"Avoid using wire nuts. Wire nuts were designed for a stationary, stable environment -like inside a house - not many houses are designed to accelerate, decelerate , or corner.

The wire nut will eventually fall off the wire leaving the exposed wiring to short to ground or to a component."

[CodyB]

Straight out of the MECP Basic Installation Technician Study Guide

"Avoid using wire nuts. Wire nuts were designed for a stationary, stable environment -like inside a house - not many houses are designed to accelerate, decelerate , or corner.

The wire nut will eventually fall off the wire leaving the exposed wiring to short to ground or to a component."

I dont see many houses seeing insane types of air movement, such as those created by the subwoofer itself.

Also stated that the solder creates better contact of the wire since there is more wire touching/connecting with the other wire. Same premise as crimping on batt terminals vs soldering them on, better contact = better energy flow, less contact = high resistance, high resistance = high heat/power loss due to electrical energy being turned into heat energy... Depending upon the application you could possibly melt that nut, but I doubt that will happen.

Its one of those to each his own. Im a fan of solder personally but its your setup.

[mr.p]

im pretty sure wire nuts are intended for single strand copper also where they have something to "bite"

[finkster]

x2 to HHR Ed and Neel.

Here is a paragraph straight out of snafu's book on the topic of wire nuts. He knows his shit.

"I do not recommend wire nuts whatsoever for automotive use. There are many better connections. If you like the simplicity of a wire nut, use a crimp cap instead and rest assured it will not come loose!.....Wire nuts are great for home wiring jobs with solid wire, and that's about it."

[audiofanaticz]

This is really funny...

I change boxes very often. I find that using a solder and tape or crimping method ends up eating your direct connect wires. What happens when you cut, strip, your wires over and over and your wire on your direct connect is gone? looks like its time for a recone for a bogus reason.

You can not say a that solder on coper is a better connection then a copper on copper connection.

Ive used wire nuts on my dd's since dd switched to the direct connect method, and never had an issue yet!

Ive never had an issue in the 5+ years using this method extremely large wirenuts and tape for added reassurance. The wire nut is helping more then just tape alone, and I know theres lots of people out there that just wrap their wires in tape and be done with it (it dont matter if its tape on your speaker wires, or the wires behind your dash to hook up your headunit), They have no problems what so ever.

Neither method will add resistance or limit the amount of power going thru the wires, nor will either alter your DB or SQ of your driver.

This is just starting to seem like a solder vs crimping argument now.

Both methods work however.

[Neel]

melt solder , resolder ... i dont see why you need to cut the ends off? lol

[skittlesRgood]

This is really funny...

I change boxes very often. I find that using a solder and tape or crimping method ends up eating your direct connect wires. What happens when you cut, strip, your wires over and over and your wire on your direct connect is gone? looks like its time for a recone for a bogus reason.

You can not say a that solder on coper is a better connection then a copper on copper connection.

Ive used wire nuts on my dd's since dd switched to the direct connect method, and never had an issue yet!

Ive never had an issue in the 5+ years using this method extremely large wirenuts and tape for added reassurance. The wire nut is helping more then just tape alone, and I know theres lots of people out there that just wrap their wires in tape and be done with it (it dont matter if its tape on your speaker wires, or the wires behind your dash to hook up your headunit), They have no problems what so ever.

Neither method will add resistance or limit the amount of power going thru the wires, nor will either alter your DB or SQ of your driver.

This is just starting to seem like a solder vs crimping argument now.

Both methods work however.

we talked about this not long ago. i like to use solder myself but you are very right, resistance wise it doesnt matter. if there is a difference its so incredible small no one could ever really care. ill bet you wouldnt lose more than a watt between these 2 methods. if you trust the wire nuts, go for it. i dont trust them and i like to solder so thats what i do.

melt solder , resolder ... i dont see why you need to cut the ends off? lol

yep, i told him the same thing last week.