LoudBlazer Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 I have added Home Depot Peel and Seal and it sticks. Clean the surface and it wont come back up. ALso made a huge diffrence after about 2-3 layers! Could barely tell my 150+ db wall was playing cept for flexing. I use andand recommened it! $16 a roll (6"x25') is a god deal. Specially if your not going for ALL OUT performance youll be happy 1997 2 Door Blazer Bagged & Body Dropped SBC/TH350
lazyme Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 Not who is better than who, who is cheaper and better 2010 Rav4 Image Dynamics IDQ10 D4 v.3 (2) ID XS65 Components ID CTX6 2 Farad Cap ID Q 450.4 ID Q 600.1 Kenwood KIV-BT900 A couple layers of Second Skin First system in years and looking for good advice. Starting small and hoping to grow!!!
barros57 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 Here is that peel and stick/ window wrap stuff on the back wall and roof of my truck. You probably cant tell in the vid, but it actually did help stop alot of the rattling. That high pitched rattle in the end was the light bar on top. My 93 chevy truck Orion HCCA 15's Build 6K HID's 2 orion HCCA 15.4 2 AP30001D's 2 optima yellowtops, 2 C&D 270fr's, all 3 tsunami 1/0, CS144 190 amp Rockford p200-2 Rockford p200-2 Rockford p300-1 Kole KX1 5500D -broken
808head Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 At homedepot! i use that stuff all in my trunk and on the lid.shit works you can see it in my vid 92 Black Acura Vigor (Blacura) pioneer head unit powerbass s-series 6 1/2 components in front 2 stock tweets up on the dash 2 stock 1 inch speakers by the front dome light alpine spg-17c2 6/12s in the back,custom fiberglass pods for them hifonics MX-3 sound processor/line driver BIG 3 done stock alt...not for long 1/0G all around optima yellowtop up front kinetik 2400 in the back Powerbass XA3000d sub amp 2 MTX 9500 12s, single 4 ohm vc (so only doing about 2200w) 8awg wire for the subs
huh?do-what? Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 peel and seal is made to go on a roof, so heat may not be a problem. Hmmm,I might just have to try some of that. God damn its hot today. My balls are stuck to my leg.
AlpineKid Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 I have heard R-Blox is good for cheap damping http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=r-blox&am...t=0&bkBtn=1 /////ALPINE
czman30 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 about how many sq feet do i need for a small suv ??? Introduce a no fat chicks in the whip rule. Im gonna have tech force make up a sign that says that and put it on my car lol
HHR Ed Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 peel and seal is made to go on a roof, so heat may not be a problem. Hmmm,I might just have to try some of that. Key word is roof, not ceiling. Ed Lester ShowtimeSPL Host Showtime Electronics Video MarketingMy old Build Loghttp://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl 5 time dB Drag Finalist Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way. Loudest score ever = 171dB 2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion
micahmye Posted February 17, 2010 Report Posted February 17, 2010 Key word is roof, not ceiling. Amen! I PMed Ant from Second Skin a couple weeks ago telling him I was thinking of using P&S, this was his response Me trying to convince you not to use P&S, is kind of like me tryikng to convince you wear a condom when you want to pick up a hooker.. Right off the bat, you should know better, right? There is plenty of info on the forums about how terrible peal and sael is, and only a few positive reports.Hookers are nasty! So is peel and seal. It is asphalt, toxic, and can (& might) melt in your car. The foil is 2 mils thick, and soft, which is not nearly strong enough to constrain the adhesive, which is not elastomeric. The reason people use P&S is because it looks similar to Dynamat Extreme. Foil, with black adhesive. Just because they look the same, does not mean they work the same. Not even close in fact. If you want to save money, look at our Damplifier Lite. The foil is 200% stronger than the foil on P&S, and it is 50% thicker. The adhesive is a high quality butyl that is not toxic, and will not melt It would take you 2.5 layers of P&S to equal 1 layer of Damplifier Lite. If you want to save money, you should go with the best product you can find, and just use less of it For example, I would rather use $100 worth of our SPLT tiles through out an entire car, than $100 worth of P&S, even though you get 5 times more coverage with P&S. Spread out the SPLT tiles evenly, and you will get better results. After hearing that I decided to go with SS. I have used RAAMmat BXT in previous builds and it wasn't to damn expensive and was pretty good stuff. Just my .02 "The Pimp Van" Build "The Pimp Van" Rebuild Youtube Photobucket Feedback For Sale
KCCharger Posted February 18, 2010 Report Posted February 18, 2010 I like that response from him, pretty much sums it up. Always were condoms when picking up hookers j/k.....no seriously I wouldn't use that P&S crap on my car....
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