Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Recommended Posts

I will post back tomorrow to let you guys know if that's still the issue.

and I grounded the ground to the actual bolt that hold the back seat in place, not seat belt.

As for the box wiring: There are 2 sets of +/- wires coming out of the box. 4 wires total. I always thought if it was wired to 2 ohms that it would only have 1 set of wires coming out but I may be mistaken. My last subs I wired to 2 ohms and that's how I had em.

Edited by abaddon

2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71

2 12" Kicker CVX's

Audiopipe AP15001d

Stinger SR80 Isolator with DieHard 1200CCA battery

Streetwires 0awg

Secondary - 1998 Ford Expedition XLT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I re-did the ground with a shorter piece of 4awg with a ring terminal and no change. still same issue.

I checked the ohm rating coming out of the subs and both sets of wires said 3.0 ohms??? That doesn't sound right..

2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71

2 12" Kicker CVX's

Audiopipe AP15001d

Stinger SR80 Isolator with DieHard 1200CCA battery

Streetwires 0awg

Secondary - 1998 Ford Expedition XLT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I re-did the ground with a shorter piece of 4awg with a ring terminal and no change. still same issue.

I checked the ohm rating coming out of the subs and both sets of wires said 3.0 ohms??? That doesn't sound right..

First off take the subs out of the box, re-check to make sure the subs are dual 2ohm or dual 4ohm. next measure resistance of each coil by itself, and then again connected together at the sub, then check resistance of the wire by itself. Get back to me with these numbers and I can help you walk through your problems. You might have to small of wire running your subs adn the way you have them wired might be a high ohm load, and not 2homs like you think. Higher ohm load= Less watts output

take baby steps, u cant do it all at once unless u have a roll of 100's big enough to choke a donkey

1998 Chevy Venture "Swagger Wagon"

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 Headunit

3 15" Alpine Type R's in seperate T-Lines

1 RF T1500-1bd for 2 of the 15s

1 RF P1000-1bd for the single 15

3 sets of Hifonics Zeus ZXi6.5C Components( 1 more set to come for Front stage)

1 Hifonics HFi100.4 4-channel amp

Stock alt for now (DC HO SPL 400A when funds come in,currently working on buying this)

Stock battery and one Optima Redtop for now (looking at XS batteries)

3 15" Alpine Type R's (aka Swagger Wagon Build 1.0)

Swagger Wagon Build 2.0

Youtube Videos

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They wired right? Are they in phase?

did you make sure your polarity is right on the amp to the subs?

My F-150 Build (So Far)

2 DC L3 10's

Kenwood KDC-X794

(4) Selenium ST200 (Highs)

(2) RE X8 (Mids)

Sundown Sub/Mid/High Amps

Shuriken Batteries

Knu Wiring

My Feedback Thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I switched the +/- poles on the amp and from what I can tell, no difference. can't turn it up too loud in my neighborhood though.

the box is pretty decent size but I've heard these subs countless times before I bought them so I really don't think it's the subs that are making the impact right now. It's a best buy dual 12" ported box I believe.

I'll get back to you tomorrow when I have some free time man, it's late.

Edited by abaddon

2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71

2 12" Kicker CVX's

Audiopipe AP15001d

Stinger SR80 Isolator with DieHard 1200CCA battery

Streetwires 0awg

Secondary - 1998 Ford Expedition XLT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the deal.. I bought 2 12" Kicker CVXs with a box from my buddy. Subs were tested and bump hard.

I also bought just a temporary Fusion 2000watt mono amp until I can buy my Hifonics Brutus. I am running 0awg for Power/Ground and for some reason... This doesn't bump AT ALL!!!

The subs move, but move sloppy.. No air is really coming out of the port and the sound quality is just shit. Hardly hits any notes at all. Sometimes when you turn it up it seems like the subs turn themselves down, but the amp never goes into protect mode.

I was thinking it was the amp, but I'm not sold because it just came out of my friend's system running 2 12" Type-Rs and this amp rocked those subs! The whole reason I even bought the amp was because I have seen it bump subs!

I ran out of ring terminals so my ground is bare wire connected to a seat bolt in the back of my Expedition, so I was thinking it might have a bad ground.

I also thought it might have been the used RCA's I got with this wiring. They are nicer gold-plated RCA's, but wasn't sure.

Any ideas at all? Took a multimeter to everything, RCA's tested fine, ground was re done but still no terminal(until tomorrow when shops are open) so I'm stumped. I'm guessing it's the crappy amp but like I said, it was just temporary. Buddy won't buy it back from me now.

I wonder if it has to do wiht your super shitty ground :good:

Take the fucking time, get a ring terminal, and wire it to the chassis. Not some shitty dirty ass seat bolt.

2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles

Stock H/U and mids/highs

Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub

HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm

Random 2.5^3' dual ported box

NVX LOC

Stinger wiring throughout 

 

1977 Chevy SWB

Cammed 350

Dual exhaust

Cheap Wish stereo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had some cvxs. they were loud .... maybe you have crazy rise?

maybe its your ground, maybe its the polarity, maybe its your RCAs? ..... correct your ground before moving forward.

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

DWRIGHT-1-1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take the woofers out, measure them. Generally 3ohms=4ohms in subwoofers because they measure the impedance not the DC resistance. Like someone else said put a 9v battery on the terminals (without the amp connected to the subs :P )they should both move out, but if the both move in its fine too. As long as they move the same way. Maybe give us pics or vids of them.

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so wait you said the guy had them wired to 1 ohm, but now you have them wired to 2 ohms? somethings not right cause if they are 4 ohm DVC they can be wired to 4 or 1 ohms, if they are 2 ohm DVC they are only stable to 2 or .5 ohm

secondly, its prolly that POS box, the CVX subs need 2-2.2 cubes ported of air space each

or maybe its the pos fusion "2000 watt" amp

Team Sundown Audio

**CURRENT** -- 2012 Scion tC Build Click Here

**OLD** -- 2002 Pontiac Grand AM Build Click Here
check them out, slap me a comment

2002 Pontiac Grand AM SE 2.2l 4 cylinder ecotec.
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Head Unit - Alpine CDA-9887
Subs - 2x Z 12 v.2s - v.3 + NS Soft parts
Amplifier - Sundown Audio SAZ-3500D
Enclosure - 3.33 Cubes tuned to 34.66hz
Front Stage - JBL P660c 6.5" Components
Rear Deck - Powerbass 4xl 6.5" Mid-Range
Front Stage Amplifier - Sundown Audio SAX-100.4D
Wires - Kicker Hyperflex 1/0, KnuKonceptz 1/0, Knu 4 and 8 Gauge, Kicker RCAs
Electrical - 275 AMP DC Power H/O Alternator, XS Power S3400, XS Power D2700
Videos - http://www.youtube.com/user/BeAILsTaR13
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1269 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...