Exterior Installation of 0 Gauge Power Cabling

[bayoublaster]

I have been searching through numerous build logs here on the site and I can say that some peeps perform some wonderful looking installs and then their are some that "pros" (so said) did the installs that to me just look plan "DANGEROUS"!

****"Marky Marks 25KW tahoe funky fresh UNINTERUPTED BUILD LOG rebuild SEPT/09 UPDATED 2-17-10"**** build showed some BS that a shop did for him and it was terrible. I would want to knock a muthaf((*&er out over that BS. Anyway to my question for you folks. I see that there was power cabling ran under the body of the Tahoe and strapped neatly to the frame. I was told by a local shop here in south Louisiana that they would never run power cabling under the body because of safety reasons. Hum, I wonder if its safer to have a high current short "inside" or "outside" of the vehicle's cabin space. I think that if the install is done properly that it could be a succes. I am a professional that works in the industrial electrical and controls field here in the grand ole oil patch and I think that this is feasible. What are you'll take on this?

[n8ball2013]

its more than safe to run the wire under the truck. Its insulated. Its waterproof. It can't be cut into. Its not moving. Its not in the way of moving parts. AND if you are doing multiple runs of a large gauge wire you don't have that big bulge under the trunk. Oh and you dont have to worry about the signal cables crossing large power cables. I can keep going on this

[loganberry]

i think its better to run multiple runs under the vehicle, i have 4 runs of 0 under my f150 and have no problems, its got heat tubing in 5 foot sections where it runs past the engine to the front battery, and more wrapping where it enters the cab, its screwed to the truck with plumbers tape, and then ziptied all neatly, best part is no fumbling with my crowed firewall to get it all through, and no wondering how im gonna hide it all under the carpet

[STEvil]

You can run it under the vehicle plenty safe, but anywhere it contacts the frame or anything you should wrap it in rubber (tire tubes work great for this) and secure it to keep it from rubbing as much as possible.

Many build logs i've read do not do this. Any movement of the wires from driving or from flex of vehicle will eventually wear through the protective coating.

[01 S-10]

I also have multiple runs of 1/0 zip-tied to the frame and entering my truck through grommits in the floor. Been like this for awhile now driving through rain storms and everything else no problem. Like others have said you just have to be smart how you run it, keep it away from hot and moving parts and anything else that could cut or damage the insulation of the wire.

[bayoublaster]

Thanks for the info ya'll. I guess when I get home on Wednesday morning I will gather up all of my power/ground cabling and get to work. Its not like I have a large install but I want it done right and I just don't trust some of the folks in the area and I feel that since I have a career background pertaining to electrical systems I can take my time and use the knowledge that I have learned here (from reading posts here everyday since I joined for hours in the evening). You guys that have replied can I ask what type of power systems that you all sport? In my build I will have the following: 1-Irragi 260A alt, 2-Kinetik HC2400 batteries, Stinger 0 gauge (power/ground), Stinger power distribution, 1-RF T1500-1BD, 1-RF T-600-4BD, 2-RF T2625(s), 2-T215D2(s), 1-Obcon Profreak-Series enclosure, Eclipse CD7200MK2 H/U, Eclipse 6 disc Changer, Ipod and steering wheel controls. I guess with this being said my power requirements are all that great but I figure that with some mid/high volume tuning that I can expect around a 175-225Amp load on the elctrical system. I'll probably be upgrading in the future since this bug has bitten me once again after like 17 years. Hopefully, after all of these years I have made some good decisions with the equipment, but thats always up for debat around here. I will be sure to take pics to post here. They prolly won't be the biggest and the badest but I care most about the sound, performance and appearance of my install. I'll keep on reading and veiwing the builds and posts here to keep me fresh with some ideas about how to perform a clean ride. Tell you how bad i took a lick on a O-scope so that I can setup my own system. Do you guys know where I can get the CD(s) with the Test Tones to be used to calibrate my system?

[STEvil]

Chevy 2500: stock 105a alt, 1 run 4g, 250a fuse.. single Lanzar Opti2000D @ 1 ohm.

Moving to asap: another run or two of 4g, more fuses, dual Lanzar Opti2000D @ 1.5 ohm (or strap them), alternately a Fusion FCA-4000D.. Have two more batts to go in as well and a bunch of 2/0. Might get another alt or a single big one.

Daily sustained listening levels rarely exceed 2kw for most systems.

[Wastehog]

You can download test tones from the internet and burn them to a cd. Realm of excursion has the test tones as well as other sites. I also know crutchfield sells the cd's but they are a pretty penny.

[UnderLoK]

I'll probably be upgrading in the future since this bug has bitten me once again after like 17 years. Hopefully, after all of these years I have made some good decisions with the equipment, but thats always up for debat around here.

I'm right there with you. I quit paying attention to car audio back in the late 90's (99 to be exactly) and have been running the same system since (3 12w6's, mmats amps, alpine deck, etc). When it all went into my old Caddy the bug stuck me, but it bit me a bit harder I think... I have 45lbs or so of wire on the way...