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Fi or aa in a house


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If you're not going to bring your house to SPL competitions, then just get a loud SQ driver. Really what's the point of listening to laggy bass. That's just like blasting out distorted music.

Mids/Highs: stock Bang & Olufsen

Lows: Image Dynamics IDMax 12v.3

Power: Sony Xplod XM-D9001GTR:Knukonceptz 4 gauge

Box: 1.75 cu/ft Sealed

Past: Pioneer Premier TS-W1207 (2)/ Rockford Fosgate P210/ Image Dynamics ID10V.3/ Infinity Reference 311A/ Audiopipe AP-18001D

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get 2 pyle 18"!!! they are the best! :lol: nahhh im jokin! i would get a fi q because it's a quality sub. Also, i heard it goes LOW :) and in a good box it would sound like a bomb going off =@:good:

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Could try a Maelstrom X....

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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I want to put in my party room a baddas wofer as btl or mayhem. I know they are really powerful, but i need (something like) that.

This is my current setup:

2 Behringer b415 dsp (they are really loud, but 3 6 mafia or psyph are just not right for them)

2 Jamo e680(they are great)

1 Pioneer vsx 515

1 Behringer 1222 fx.

So, what wofer and amp?

Check out Home Theater Shack Mobile Edition. A guy did an 18" in a T-line that was something like 96"s long to fit under his screen. He's got 15's in his front stage too. 500 to 1000 watts in home is getting crazy. I use an Audio Control Phase Coupled Activator. Pretty much an epicenter for the home. It will shake all the nick nacks off the wall so fear the old lady on that one. Also check out JL's site and see the $3 grand W7 in that fancy piano black box. Lots of money to keep the wife happy. You do need to keep an eye on the sag to make sure the sub will not fall out of the gap. Do a little research on this so you know what I mean.

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If you're not going to bring your house to SPL competitions, then just get a loud SQ driver. Really what's the point of listening to laggy bass. That's just like blasting out distorted music.

Wth, laggy bass? lol

(and u use car audio subs in home yourself...and amps...)

A good subwoofer like a FI Q or a Fi BL, or AA havoc or chaos would sound good if u put them in a good enclosure.

The bass won't be "laggy", if u put it in the right enclosure and in the right spot in the room.

To the OP: Big bass in a house is 'cool', but everything shaking and falling down is less 'cool'.

I suggest to put wheather striping on the doors so it doesn't rattles apart.(it's not fun to repaint the door because the paint chips away...)

(and if u have a closet i would suggest to put wheather striping on the doors too, or else the hinges will come off every week ><)

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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If you're not going to bring your house to SPL competitions, then just get a loud SQ driver. Really what's the point of listening to laggy bass. That's just like blasting out distorted music.

You must have only heard shitty systems then.

SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some.

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  • 3 weeks later...

so guys, it will be havoc with behringer 2500 amp.. and, its not the house i'm livin in.. I'll make a youtube video so you'll see what I'm talkin about.. :)

and yes, I need a 2 ohm version, right?

What ohm load are you trying to achieve? If you're trying to get to 4 ohm, then yes, you need dual 2.

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

Stinger Roadkill Expert

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