Cardboardcat15 Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 I have this old Pro-Lock thing (don't know the proper name for it) installed in my car. It's been there ever since I got the car, and has been giving me a LOT of trouble. I've been driving the car for about 2+ years now, and about 5 times I've gotten stranded because the damn thing wont start. Here's a couple of the pictures I took of it. Car is a 1992 Corolla DX if that info is needed. The leads are pretty fucked up, so I'm guessing that's a main issue. Most of the times I can start my car no problems, other times I have to push the chip upwards when it's inserted to make any contact, and sometimes (like this morning) I get stranded for an hour in a parking lot before I can get my car jumped to actually get it to start. I'm assuming this Pro-Lock thing is the problem, so is there any way I can bypass it, or just rid my car of it all together? Thanks. My Channel on YouTube. Check it out for cinematic-style Car Audio videos. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcSMhtT-rpopJbdybubDgnQ New 2014 Scion TC 4th Wall Build https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217173-2014-tc-4th-order-build-3-fi-sp4-15s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUNKYOU007 Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 are the contacts in the pc on the bottom of the dash "spring" loaded? you might be able to bend them with a small pick. Maybe try cleaning the contacts on that card you have to put in there. Doethepaperboy "Bars of Pain" Doethepaperboy "Hero Remix" C. Arson d(-__-)b beer sucks...but i can bring some jose cuervo. Only problem is that it makes me horny and gives me the rams. So unless yall wanna fight and then have some great make up sex i will leave it home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 if its anything like what it looks in the pics, try to take a small pick to the prongs to the female adapter where you insert the prolock stick. If possible take dielectric grease to the connectors or put some on the chip where it comes into contact with the pins (DO NOT put the grease on the entire chip because this will cause an instant short and you will be stranded forever!!) 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huh?do-what? Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 take it out. there should be two wires running to your starter wire. Starter wire should be black and white. It will be cut in half and each end will run back to the prolock unit. Connect the two ends of the black and white wire back together. This should let the car start regardless of what the prolock unit is doing. God damn its hot today. My balls are stuck to my leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfry Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I have the same exact unit in my '96 Toyota T100 truck and it's been doing the same thing as yours - only worse!Soooo... (after a long procrastination), I decided to tackle head on. And, (after cleaning, spraying with a contact cleaner and blowing it all out) - I found the problem!One of the pins inside the female receptacle was bent up, (instead of down like all the other 5 pins), thereby NOT making contact with the male counterpart.I used a safety pin and bent the very tip just enough to fit up in there and bent it back down. Now it works perfectly!Hope this helps others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebirdude Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 take it out. there should be two wires running to your starter wire. Starter wire should be black and white. It will be cut in half and each end will run back to the prolock unit. Connect the two ends of the black and white wire back together. This should let the car start regardless of what the prolock unit is doing. Exactly. These things add basically no insurance against theft anyway. How many thieves have your keys, but not the ProLock plug? Oh you mean they don't even have your keys?! Well then they're not going anywhere anyway. And if they knew how to hotwire it, they can certainly jump the cut starter wire together too. In fact, having that installed just bullseyes which wire is the starter. lol Take it out. Should take you 20 minutes tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Look at the fucking date of the OP. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 It's retro week here at SMD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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