loburbon Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 think about it. its quite simple. you have a double baffle which is 2 sheets of 3/4. without a countersink your mounting your subs into 2 sheets. Now you cut the top baffle larger to countersink the sub, your mounting the sub into 1 sheet. its not taking away from the double baffle. but it does take away from the sub mounting aspect of a double baffle 2000 gmc yukon 4 sundown Zv3 15's 4 dd m2a's kenwood kdc-x994 2 batcap 4000's 1 batcap 2000 dual alts. 154@37hz and climbing http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3231683 http://www.myspace.com/torque150
bigbodylexus Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 think about it. its quite simple. you have a double baffle which is 2 sheets of 3/4. without a countersink your mounting your subs into 2 sheets. Now you cut the top baffle larger to countersink the sub, your mounting the sub into 1 sheet. its not taking away from the double baffle. but it does take away from the sub mounting aspect of a double baffle Unless you're running massive amounts of power, countersinking with a double baffle shouldn't cause any issues 1990 Chevy Suburban (Big Booty Judy) (4) Sundown Audio Zv5 18's (1) Sundown Audio Salt 12K (1) Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 (1) Sundown Audio SAE-50.4 (2) Crossfire ST-1 Tweeters (2) Obsidian Audio ST-1 tweeters (4) Sundown Audio Neo Pro v3 6.5's Saving 2nd Bass
Torres Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 I don't understand why countersinking a sub would diminish the effect of double baffling. it wouldn't. the wood is still strengthened by the double baffle. i think he was pointing out that you're still only mounting in 3/4" wood. i'd use t-nuts if mounting was an issue
loburbon Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 Unless you're running massive amounts of power, countersinking with a double baffle shouldn't cause any issues it doesnt take much power to rip shitty screws out of 3/4 mdf. Thats the point im trying to make. By double baffling, then counter sinking a sub with plain screws, your no better off then if you mounted the subs in a plain single baffle. If your going to countersink with a double baffle use t-nuts or better quality screws that wont break or back out. 2000 gmc yukon 4 sundown Zv3 15's 4 dd m2a's kenwood kdc-x994 2 batcap 4000's 1 batcap 2000 dual alts. 154@37hz and climbing http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3231683 http://www.myspace.com/torque150
bigbodylexus Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 it doesnt take much power to rip shitty screws out of 3/4 mdf. Thats the point im trying to make. By double baffling, then counter sinking a sub with plain screws, your no better off then if you mounted the subs in a plain single baffle. If your going to countersink with a double baffle use t-nuts or better quality screws that wont break or back out. Key words up there in bold 1990 Chevy Suburban (Big Booty Judy) (4) Sundown Audio Zv5 18's (1) Sundown Audio Salt 12K (1) Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 (1) Sundown Audio SAE-50.4 (2) Crossfire ST-1 Tweeters (2) Obsidian Audio ST-1 tweeters (4) Sundown Audio Neo Pro v3 6.5's Saving 2nd Bass
loburbon Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 what screws do you use. Shitty screws seems to be what 99% of the people use. How many boxes have you actually built and tested? I'm not trying to get pissy with you, but i have plenty of experience with this matter, and you seem to be completely losing the fact that is being pointed out. 2000 gmc yukon 4 sundown Zv3 15's 4 dd m2a's kenwood kdc-x994 2 batcap 4000's 1 batcap 2000 dual alts. 154@37hz and climbing http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3231683 http://www.myspace.com/torque150
WCA Rusty Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 I would double baffel it, I triple baffeled my silverado 4 12 box and the van rolls a sextuple baffel DC AUDIO Phone Number 1(855)SPL-DBZZ Built by Competitors, for Competitors.
MrSkippyJ Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 Unless you're running massive amounts of power, countersinking with a double baffle shouldn't cause any issues so the question seems to be then is he double baffling to strengthen the baffle or to hold the subs in. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
Twistedchild420 Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 More is always better! Do you have to? No.....mah Stang was single baffled but braced to hell and it took a beating with several diff subs in her...... My POS Bass machine-2003 Hyundai Santa Fe on some shitty 22'sBed Liner Paint Job-Pioneer AVH 3200DVD4 DAD BD series 15's in a 4th Order (Bassheads ENT Design)4 Arc Audio XDI2000.1 for the woofers6 Cadence CVL68MBX 6.5's-Cadence CVL88MBX 8's-6 Cadence XT20 Supertweeters2 Arc Audio KS300.4's for mids and tweets1 Arc Audio ALD 10v Line DriverAll Audiotechnix Power wire1 DC Power 270XP High Output Alternator1 XS Power D3400 up front....6 XS Power D3100's in the rearAir Lift 1000 Bags in rear to help with suspensionIf your still reading this GFY.......
herbykw Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 IM running 2 XL 15"s on a VFL500.1 and i have a single baffle but i did brace the inside of the box. If you have the space and supplies, double baffle. Just cause you cant make the box TOO strong. 06 300C 5.7 Hemi K&N CAI JVC KW-AVX640 6.1" DVD DC Audio 3.5k 6 DC Audio 8"s 6 cubes 8" aero port at 32hrtz http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183798-chrysler-300c-8-build/?p=2731834#entry2731834
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