Hooked it all up, but dissappointed...

[hdorre]

Wire EACH sub down to 2 ohms. Put each sub on their own "side" of the amp. Id give each sub its own chamber.

he will blow up the amp if he bridges the four channels to two and then runs a two ohm load.

Lol. I meant put one sub on the left rear channel and the other sub on the right rear channel.

I didn't mean include the front channels. With the way I explained it, there shouldn't be any bridging. I should've been more clear.

[ryanFA5]

Read hdorres reply. Gonna go see what i can do.

[n8ball2013]

you have channels 1 2 3 4 bridge channels 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 to the woofer load.

[hdorre]

Ok. And what do you mean by one side of the amp? Like just the rear speaker outs?

Yes, just the rear. I'm assuming you're using the front channels for mids and highs?

[ryanFA5]

Nope. Lol. Just using that amp for subs only. And its only gonna be till december 25th. Then im switching to a AP15001D

[Superjay]

run each sub at 8-ohms. one sub on the front. one sub on the rear. bridged. the amp will run considerably more efficiently, and you won't run into heat or overdrive issues.

[VOPA]

run each sub at 8-ohms. one sub on the front. one sub on the rear. bridged. the amp will run considerably more efficiently, and you won't run into heat or overdrive issues.

I agree as this being the safest option, but there may be a couple of issues. A lot of the sony 4 channel amps that I have seen have HP/LP filters on the rear, but only HP on the front channel. If you can indeed lowpass the front and rear, make sure to gain match front and rear channels and set the bass boost and filter settings identically and do one to the rear and one to the front.

You may have to just series/parallel the subs and bridge the rear channels. It will give you some temporary bass.

I think the amp may be acting the way it is due to how you have it wired, but It also sounds like the output inductor may be bad in the amp as they filter out the DC off the output leaving you with just the AC output. Often, when they go bad, you end up with a pulsating DC on the output. Hopefully, it is just the way you have it wired.

For those of you who think a 4 channel is not for subs, you are wrong. It is for any transducer load you want to drive within its specified impedance range. It may not be ideal for subs, but it will work and can give decent reliable performance if that is all you have. We all don't live an ideal world. Thankfully so, becuase if we did, many of us wouldn't be employed to find solutions to non-ideal situations.

This thread is a perfect example of a noob getting stomped on. A recent topic discussed the un-helpfullness of members and the over criticism of noobs. It is a real problem.

THE REAL PROBLEM IS THAT THIS SITE WILL CONTINUE TO ATTRACT NOOBS. MORE NOOBS THAN OTHER CAR AUDIO SITES, BECAUSE OF THE NATURE OF STEVE, HIS VIDEOS, HIS TARGET MARKET, YOUTUBE, AND HIS PUBLICITY. ITS JUST PART OF IT. FOR THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN AROUND FOR A WHILE, HOW HAVE YOU NOT REALIZED THIS? IF YOU DONT LIKE DEALING WITH NOOBS, THEN DON'T. IGNORE THEM, LEAVE THE SITE, OR CHANGE THE WHOLE ENTITY THAT IS SMD.

[ryanFA5]

Thanks for calling me a noob... I was just asking for help and all i get is arguing and bitching about every little thing i did or am doing wrong... Im on the verge of giving up... Its probably the amp... Its old, its been through hell and back, and when i pulled it out of my friends car, it had frost all over it. So im throwing that amp in the trash and im just going to wait till xmas for my mono amp...

[VOPA]

You , sir, may not be as "nooby" as others, but you are a noob compared to many of us. Look at your first post, you were "noobing" all the way with your descriptions of your procedures for hooking up the amp. That is PART of the reason some people jumped in with their not so helpfull comments.

[MrSkippyJ]

your running subs on a amp thats made for mids and highs... could be the first issue....

dont do that....

why, it works well in my setup. why is it bad to run a 4 channel amp on subs?