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Ever Rebuilt Factory Alternator to get more power?


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Anyone ever heard or actaully had it done, where you get your alternator rebuilt and allows it to push more power out of it? Just curious as I want a H/O alt, but don't know how long I will have my Dodge Grand Caravan 99 for. It has a Denso HS130 now which give a max of 130 amps out, but my system can use close to 250 amps of power. I have a d3400 in the front, a d3100 in the back, all KNU Kolossus flex to the back and 2 of the big 3 done, just havnt done the alternator wire as its hard to get to. Just curious, just seeing if there is an alternative to spending 599 on a 350 amp mechman :P although it would be nice, if I change vehicles I am screwed :(

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Guest DC Power Kyle

I wouldn't personally try to get the stock alternator to do more than it's designed. The alternator was designed to do "130 amps" not double that... you will lose your idle performance and it will burn up if you get on it for long enough

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I did it with one on one of my old cars, it was an import so there wasn't alot of options for me and it worked out fine. So alts that is really all they are anyway, like the ad244 chevy series alts, that is all they are same case for a 145 amp stocker and 350 full out retarded no output at idle version. They just change the winding and bridge rectifier, everything else is the same, except maybe the pulley, the smaller pulleys helps it cheat some at idle....LOL

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I did my GMC Yukon alt, I posted a thread on here somewhere last year. Worked great, no issues at all. Went from 140am to 240amps. I never did get the smaller pulley though

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It IS possible but if you do do it and don't replace every part then half your alt will have all the original miles and the other half will be working its way into the alt.

If you MUST rebuild an alt either replace EVERYTHING, or get a new stock one (not rebuilt) and rewind that.

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I wouldn't rebuild it myself, I would take is somewhere, thanks for the input guys. From what I see is it can work but it can also be half assed. So really I should buy a car I want to keep and then buy a mechman for that car :P then I can redesign my box too, but this will be a lot of work. At least with my new 2 XS batteries my voltage doesn't drop really at all anymore, at most down to 13.8 on the big notes :P and that was at idle

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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ive taken alts to alt shops and gotten them rewound for higher current. they can usually only go so high though.

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Guest DC Power Rob

It really depends on what you start with.. Most import cars, forget it. First, parts are almost non-existant, and second, the ones that are available are absolute garbage. On the domestic stuff, parts can be had and some people do it with good results, but, it's hit or miss and you can spend a good chunk of money to not get what your expecting. On the imports though, (strictly speaking from 20+ years of experience and 20k+ units built) if I won't do it, I wouldn't recommend anyone else to do it for the reasons above. You just cant buy good parts off the shelf, anywhere..

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