Ninja1990 Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I recently upgraded my entire system, sold all my alpine stuff and got bigger better equipment. Here is what the setup is (also there is a ridiculously large pic at the bottom) Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9's in the rear deck @ 2 ohmsInfinity Kappa 60.11cs 6 1/2's in the front @ 2 ohmsSubwoofers in custom ported box tuned to Fb = 34.5 HzVb = 3.2 ft^3HiFonics BRZ2100.1D Mono Block running 2000W @1ohm in parallel to 2 rockford fosgate punch P3 P3D412 DVC's wired in parallel @ 2 ohmsPrecision Power P900.4 4 Channel running fronts and rears @ 225W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms When my car is on (not started/running, just on) everything works perfect, loud no problems with the amps or anything. However, when I start the car, my HU turns off, and then powers back on when the car is up, my Mono amp most of the time goes into protect. Occasionally I can turn my deck off 2 or 3 times and get it to come on, sometimes it stays on sometimes it goes off after a while. It seems to run longer in the colder temperatures. I have re done my ground 3 times and it is super sanded straight to metal contact. Using 0/1 gauge wire, the impedance is correct. I am running out of ideas, I would think a capacitor maybe, but my headlights do not dim at all (optima battery)..Also I have not done the Big3 yet, but again no headlight issues. My thoughts were to ground my Rcas, I know that’s the least likely to fix it but it is also the cheapest and I don't have to wait for parts, plus I can hear my turn signals through my subs..(when they work and the music is paused). That’s the only thing I can think of for that, no power wires run through the chassis as my battery is in the trunk.. Second Big 3 because if it doesn’t fix my problem it needs to be done anyway.. Last see if I can get a shop to let me borrow a cap to try and if it fixes the issue then I'll buy it from them (giving them their upsale as a "payment" for letting me borrow it?)Any thoughts?! Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocking.that.eclipse Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I'd systematically go through it. Unhook the subs and see if it works, then go to the RCA's, if that doesnt work try jumping the power to the remote and see if its your remote. It may not get it fixed but you will be able to isolate what the problem is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Yup... if you think its the RCA's. (which is odd) then unplug them and start up...... Do you have a after market alt? (i had a issue once when i started my rig, the voltage would spike and protect the amps) EDIT- id look heavy into the turn on's on both units.... the deck and the amp(s) SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Does the amp feel hot when it goes into protect? You say it plays fine when the car is not running (12V input) so maybe when you start it and the input increases to 13.5-14-ish volts something internally doesn't agree with that and the amp overheats and protects? It sounds good in my head, not sure if it came out right though. Have you measured your voltage to see what your amp is receiving when the car is running? SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 interesting, what headunit is it? also what amp is going into protect, both of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninja1990 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I'd systematically go through it. Unhook the subs and see if it works, then go to the RCA's, if that doesnt work try jumping the power to the remote and see if its your remote. It may not get it fixed but you will be able to isolate what the problem is I replaced the RCA's and that didn't help, i have the same remote going to my 4-channel (it hits my mono first) and my 4-channel has no problems. If I unhook the subs and it stays on, that would make it either the amp or the speaker wire? but it could still be a power load issue maybe? Yup... if you think its the RCA's. (which is odd) then unplug them and start up...... Do you have a after market alt? (i had a issue once when i started my rig, the voltage would spike and protect the amps) EDIT- id look heavy into the turn on's on both units.... the deck and the amp(s) I'm running the stock which I think is 130 I understand about the turn ons, but it works fine when the car is not running..? Does the amp feel hot when it goes into protect? You say it plays fine when the car is not running (12V input) so maybe when you start it and the input increases to 13.5-14-ish volts something internally doesn't agree with that and the amp overheats and protects? It sounds good in my head, not sure if it came out right though. Have you measured your voltage to see what your amp is receiving when the car is running? No, its not thermal, its just turning on, That's the only thing I could think was the jump from 12-13.5 but it turns everything off until well after the car is started, and if I turn the head unit off (which kills the remote to the amps) and back on it still messes with it. (Could be a messed up amp also...) interesting, what headunit is it? also what amp is going into protect, both of them? Alpine CDA-117, the Hifonics Mono is going into protect. What if i switched the remote to go to the 4-channel first then to the mono? maybe it would act as a small relay? I wouldn't think so, but when my subs do power up there is about a 1 second delay before the mids/highs come on and only the subs hit. The voltage drop made me think about a cap, but when i get them to stay on and they decide to drop out its normally in between songs, or when there is a break in tha bass, like when they aren't being used they decide to shut off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 EDIT just play it with the car off.. done... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 sure you have the correct remote wire? worth trying to goto the 4 chan then the mono and see if that fixes/changed anything.... also unplug the rca's going into the mono amp turn the car on and see if the amp still goes into protect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninja1990 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 sure you have the correct remote wire? worth trying to goto the 4 chan then the mono and see if that fixes/changed anything.... also unplug the rca's going into the mono amp turn the car on and see if the amp still goes into protect It doesn't make it go into protect when the rca's are unplugged, but it makes the subs go crazy, once i plugged them in while they were doing this and it ran just fine, so i thought that might be a temporary fix, but i tried it 3 more times that same day at different times, and it never worked again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 hmmm, you should never plug / unplug things whilst they have pwr. that's weird that the amp makes your subs go crazy when the rca's are unplugged from the amp tho. you might have a dicky amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.