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The noise occurs with RCA disconnected, muting plugs, and have tested with an isolated battery. I have determined it is most definitely within the amp. Mind you the gain is only set just a quarter from halfway, not past the halfway mark. I am only running a 2db overlap on my mids. Emailed Incriminator and they would like to inspect the amp. I bought an ARC Audio KS300.4 V3 amp and could only hear any noise floor with my ear within 6" from the speakers. The IX6.4 can be heard at listening position. Could just be noisy amps who knows, figure for $500 I'd get a bit more quality though. IMG_2931.MOV

Whats up everyone! My name is Matt and I'm having some issues with my current build in my Nissan Maxima.... I've built a few systems before but nothing like this one which includes multiple amps, multiple batteries, high output alternator, big 3 upgrade, etc.... This will be a long post but please bear with me as I try to give as much info as possible so some of y'all more seasoned car audio guys can straighten me out lol.... Roughly 3500 watts RMS total, 320A high output alternator, big 3 upgrade, 2/0 gauge power and ground cables front to back(1 run each), (roughly 17 feet), battery under hood is XS Power D3400, first fuse is approximately 12" from battery(MANL style waterproof fuse holder with 2 MANL fuses equaling 350A).... One Power and ground cable from fuse block and battery for ground to trunk where power cable goes to another fuse block with a 350A ANL style fuse holder, then to a XS power XP2000, then a short run to a small XS Power XP950.... Three amps(DC Audio 2.0k monoblock, D4S JP234, Focal 4 channel A/B amp(80x4), all hooked to XP2000, along with power wire for Audiocontrol Matrix plus, DD Audio DSI-3 DSP, two cooling fans and one small light in trunk.... My issue is today the fuse holder nearest to the XS Power D3400 damn near caught fire, melting completely in half!!! What am I doing wrong folks?? Please help!! I've heard not to use anything but ANL lug style fuse holder under hood...? Is this the issue??

this is for home use. I like 100 to 150hz "punchy bass". I not worried about damaging speakers, so I want them in a sealed box. also if you can recommend better speakers that's fine. The subwoofer needs to be 120RMS and the fullrange/midrange speaker needs to be 40RMS. My amp is 400watts max 200RMS @8ohmz... 120RMS for sub and 40RMSx2 for fullrange/midrange speakers. Goldwood was really the only site I could find for home speaker replacement... also the amp is from a z-2300 logitech but the speakers are bad if that helps also. the subwoofer and speakers can be any size. Goldwood Sound GW-1038/PA Pro 10" Woofer 30oz Magnet 210 Watts Replacement Speaker - Goldwood.com is the subwoofer. Goldwood Sound GM-35 Black 5.25" Cone Midrange 80 Watt 8ohm Replacement Mid - Goldwood.com is the midrange speakers.

Your box probably is hitting the car resonant frequency and may be oversized to show muddiness and showing a sharp drop at higher bass. It is interesting that you provide no box specs, you see it doesn't matter much that the enclosure sound normal in another car. Also don't see what is your system, models for the speakers, amps etc. You provide no pictures to document your tests, etc. Even if you have an acoustics problem, there should be a way to work around the issues even if that means try different components, etc.

Turns out it's the acoustis. I have been in two Kias. Mine and another one. Both horrible. The person in charge of the interior acoustic properties is nonexistent to this vehicle producer.

Awesome...thank you so much!!! The amp is coming today, I can't wait to get started on this. I have a work trip that just came up...so I will be out of pocket till next Wednesday Couple of questions: - Are the triangles 2.5" wide like the other design? - The double triangle in the center of the port...I assume the clearance there is 1/2 the port width, so 2"? Thanks again for putting this together, I really appreciate it!

Ok. 2 12's it is then. Yea I can make the box a little bit bigger. I just didn't wanna get to close to where I have the amp mounted. I can actually make it about 6 to 8 inches deeper but that will only leave me about a inch away from the face of the amp and I really don't wanna be that close to it.

You can easily run kicker 12s which like 2.25-2.5 cubic feet each, You likely don't have 8 cubic feet net, most trunk cars don't have that much. There are some 15s that will run in lesser airspace. like DC Audio brand which will need 3 cubic feet each but very few 15 subs will run great below that. When you have space limitations you alternative is more power and subs that can handle the power to get loud in smaller boxes, there are subs that can handle many thousands of watts of power each.

Hi, ok I would be able to run 2 kicker 12's comp r or the q series then if I am understanding correctly? For the 15's I just don't have the proper air space?

Here is a box made to be similar to the one you linked but a bit better for the lows and the cutsheet can be completed just with a table saw and a jigsaw, no need for router: Power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4", figure is just an assembly guide:

Those are specified to work in 3 to 5 cubic feet net INTERNAL each, say, we pick 4 cubes for each as kicker subs prefer larger boxes and you would need 8 net, you don't have that. You are calculating external volume, net internal volume is the airspace inside the box, the space occupied by the sub, the port and the wood doesn't count. You will only be able to properly fit 1 sub of those. but it would be louder to use 2 12s that would need 4 to 5 cubic feet net internal that you should have.

Hopefully @joe x can tell me if this works..

Hi everyone. New to this forum and know this is where I should be. So I have a 08 acura rl and have started to mock up my box. I need to know if it will work and what I might need to change for it to be proper. I want to run either 2 kicker comp q 15's or 2 kicker comp r 15's. Love to get down into the low 30's frequency range. I listen to mostly hip hop and rap with some r&b also. I currently have a jp95 running my interior speakers and plan to run the 5th channel at 1 ohm. Says it will do 1k rms. Have seen test where it does more but calling it 1k to be safe. This is what I have come up with so far. Plan to run a aero port thru the top rear on the left side as that is where my factory sub was before I removed it. Wanna run the port up into that location to get the most sound inside.

Check ground and rca also deck grounded too. Ground rca?

I thought my Type R 10 was hefty...these P3 12's are massive! 1/0 power wire to the distribution fuse block under the back seat.

Wolffram said 1.5 per woofer @ 12 to 14 ft3 would a 3” port opening on a box 3.02 net be too small??

Any help?

Can i change my d4 sundown sav2 to a d1 and be ok?

The Subs came in yesterday...they look beefy to say the least. I picked up a sheet of 3/4 MDF this morning along with some wood glue and screws. The amp is enroute and scheduled to arrive on Thursday. I ran all my power wire over the weekend. I ran a 1/0 from the battery and split into dual 4ga. for the two amps. Last night I installed my 4 channel amp and replaced my factory front door speakers with a set of JBL Stadium Series 6"x8" component speakers, 862CF. Just need to get started on the box for the subs now. I can't wait to see how this sounds.