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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/06/13 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    i think he helps in the erection of the tents as well as taking them down. heard it's a slow ass process to take them down sometimes.
  2. 2 points
    You've never heard of Stetsom?
  3. 2 points
    Wait, $37 every 5 weeks? The hell does it run on, hopes and dreams?
  4. 2 points
  5. 1 point
    I had gotten bored and started making tones so I could tune amps. I made them all in Audacity. They are just simple sine waves that are very easy to make, but I see a lot of people looking for Tones/Sine Waves/Frequencies/Hz Tracks/etc so I figured I could upload some and help them out. All tones are recorded in MP3 format at 320Kbps. They include: Tones for tuning your system: These Sine Waves are 2 minutes long each 40Hz: 0dB, -2.5dB, -5dB, -7.5dB, -10dB: Download 150Hz: 0dB, -2.5dB, -5dB, -7.5dB, -10dB: Download 500Hz: 0dB, -2.5dB, -5dB, -7.5dB, -10dB: Download 1000Hz: 0dB, -2.5dB, -5dB, -7.5dB, -10dB: Download 3500Hz: 0dB, -2.5dB, -5dB, -7.5dB, -10dB: Download 5000Hz: 0dB, -2.5dB, -5dB, -7.5dB, -10dB: Download ___________________________________________________________________ Individual Tones: 1-100Hz. I have matched them the the tuning tone amplitudes so you don't need to readjust your gain for a competition. 1 full set recorded at 0dB 1 full set recorded at -2.5dB 1 full set recorded at -5dB 1 full set recorded at -7.5dB 1 full set recorded at -10dB These Sine Waves are 20 seconds long each. 1-100Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download Alternatively, you can download them in smaller zips to get the tones you need without downloading all of them. 1-9Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 10-19Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 20-29Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 30-39Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 40-49Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 50-59Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 60-69Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 70-79Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 80-89Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download 90-100Hz: 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download ___________________________________________________________________ Tone Sweeps: 1 full set recorded at 0dB 1 full set recorded at -2.5dB 1 full set recorded at -5dB 1 full set recorded at -7.5dB 1 full set recorded at -10dB Each track is roughly 45 seconds long. Tracks are: 10-80Hz, 10-20Hz, 15-25Hz, 20-30Hz, 25-35Hz, 30-40Hz, 35-45Hz, 40-50Hz, 45-55Hz, 50-60Hz, 55-65Hz, 60-70Hz, 65-75Hz, 70-80Hz 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download ___________________________________________________________________ Tones for setting filters: 1 full set recorded at 0dB 1 full set recorded at -2.5dB 1 full set recorded at -5dB 1 full set recorded at -7.5dB 1 full set recorded at -10dB Each track is 1 minute long each. Tones are: 80Hz - 100Hz - 125Hz - 160Hz - 200Hz - 250Hz - 315Hz - 400Hz - 500Hz - 630Hz - 800Hz 1000Hz - 1250Hz - 1600Hz - 2000Hz - 2500Hz - 3150Hz - 4000Hz - 5000Hz - 6300Hz - 8000Hz 10000Hz - 12500Hz - 16000Hz 0dB Download | -2.5dB Download | -5dB Download | -7.5dB Download | -10dB Download
  6. 1 point
    Looks like I have me a new (old) toy to work on ... a 1949 Ford 2 Door Custom Sedan !!! I know, i'm primarily a Chevy guy, but this one I just can not resist ... These are my dad's favorite body style cars and he has always fixed them up origional ... Not me !!! It has a Flat 6 in it now that runs great, so we plan to leave the drive train stock until we get the body up to par ... Just not sure yet as to go with a Ford or Chevy drive train ... guess it all depands on what I can find to fix her up with at that time ...
  7. 1 point
    This entire thing was sparked because of a Peel n' Seal thread on another forum, but thought I should share it here too. Why? Because knowledge is power! So enjoy! CLICK HERE FOR PART 2 - two layers of U-Seal vs. 25% coverage with a CLD CLICK HERE FOR PART 3 - 100% coverage with a CLD vs. 100% coverage of U-Seal vs. 25% coverage with a CLD
  8. 1 point
    Oh yeah I heard about him. Didn't he pop Nick's Cherry? Or was that JP?
  9. 1 point
    Onto the fronts! Now these were not as straight forward as the rears! Alot of work involved! 1 thing I didnt mention is the brake fluid was changed as well to DOT 5.1 throughout the whole braking system! 14inch discs! You can see the AMG Carbon decals properly [imghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/bassboy/Merc%20CLS/Brakes/DSC06687_zpsdd9811df.jpg[/img] Oh and yes, the hydros are now on!!! Thats the lowest setting, and its now laying frame - the bottom of the chassis (the plastic covers), are touching the floor!
  10. 1 point
    Nice work on that alt.
  11. 1 point
    Glad to see Nick is getting full potential out of Carbon's account lololololol Log out every now and then Chris, it won't kill you haha
  12. 1 point
    Nice man! That's something I'd never attempt lol
  13. 1 point
    Looks great. Awesome build man.
  14. 1 point
    There was a bit of confusion regaurding my alt. Singer thought it was the "alt on driverside, and AC pump on pass side". Mine is the just the opposite. So, the ground stud that was put on, would hit my throttle bracket. So,... since my belts are gonna be here for a few days, i pulled the alt again, and drilled and tapped the stud lead to a spot that is free and clear...... Should be ready to roll now. I cut off some threads, to make sure the stator wouldnt get hit. Ran a die down it, cut it, and then cleaned the threads.... Now we are in action.... ready for a big ole lug now...... Ill go get it in tonight, and also start running the big 3, and runs to the rear......
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Well shit definitely tuned in to see how this comes out. Should be sexy in the end
  17. 1 point
    Tuned in and hope to be able to sit and listen to it down the road
  18. 1 point
    Great project man! Gonna keep you busy for sure. This might be of some help for ideas too. http://www.streetrodderweb.com/features/1205sr_1949_ford_two_door_sedan/
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    I will give it some thought ... Thanks Hopefully this weekend we can get the brakes back together, get the wheels and tires back on, and see about converting this Gal over to a 12 volt system !!! Shouldn't be that complicated ... I need to get this thing going so I can get her home and started on the body / interior work ... LOTS of Sanding to do so we can determine, cut out an replace bad metal ...
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    90% as strong at @ 50% cost All I'll say on the matter as vs threads are prohibited really
  23. 1 point
    Thanks, I hit you up but we never connected to meet up. I want to get Mayhems but dont know when that will happen, and I have a pair of RF T3 comps that I plan to do in my front stage and run new speaker wire.
  24. 1 point
    ^^^^there is no build log just typing of what you have and no pics of your system just a muddy truck and the vid is of a complete system already
  25. 1 point
    Dd doesnt sell online. Look into sq if you get your stuff online. If you truly want dd call then direct they will make ya a good deal.
  26. 1 point
    It is not that it will not work, it is just not required and it is reducing the performance potential.
  27. 1 point
    Lol ive been to about 140. after that is creeps up about 1mph / 1/4 mile lol. And yeah I bent the place since I had no factory mount. Holes were never drilled. Its definitely scratch city
  28. 1 point
    I agree... And ya dont see your power and light company SOLDER connections on the big shit.. LOL. I prefer solder the small, and crimp the large.. Just me........... Do what ya want..
  29. 1 point
    Thank you guys! I appreciate it! I was suppose to build with Nick today, Instead my day consisted of Mcdonalds, Xbox, Wii, Juiceboxes and a GoPro with my 5yo Nephew. I stopped riding 4 wheelers years back. I took this out of my storage garage to give him a ride in a local field. I sold all my riding gear. All I have is my street bike helmet. It has a pump with fitment air bladders inside so it was a secure fit for him. One helmet... so its obvious who im going to make wear it
  30. 1 point
    I told you and the other member got his rated for who knows how many lbs and i told him to. glad you got the rite ones now
  31. 1 point
    The show was Great just short of 40 cars that competed a lot just demo.... you guys need to compete! it only helps grow the sport again.... next one will be in JULY As soon as i get the date. i will post it! Thanks to all those that made the trip.
  32. 1 point
    Can't get over how nice your car is, I want that shit. ha
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    I can get within 15 ft of a wild one. They are so freaking cool.
  35. 1 point
    jesus man! I have a garage full of equipment and 4 cars. I need to wall my 91 3000gt VR4 with the two shocker audio super extreme 18's! My wife is gonna kill me. I am naming you as the reason I blow that car apart.lol
  36. 1 point
    Get to work! I got some fiberglass questions so hurry up already..... Lookin' good. I dig the orange!
  37. 1 point
    How about some random pics? Anybody want to see an LED from a VM-1....up CLOSE? How about 120x BTW The mystery box from Toolmaker needed some touch-up work so it was out at a shop this week. Just got it back today and its lookin' sweet!
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    A little potential of the 175.4.....
  40. 1 point
    I have been looking for replacement stickers, those caps will have to go eventually. Unlike most other components in an amp they do NOT get better with age. Funny you should mention that... I have an old school Fosgate Punch200DSM which will soon make an appearance in this section. I was going to refurb it since I thought the exact same thing (caps dry out and don't last). Well I went off to Mouser and ordered a bunch of new replacement caps of different sizes and vendors to see which ones I like better. I pulled the old caps out which were nice Nichicon LQ series which aren't available anymore. I was curious how bad they were so I tested them on an LCR meter I have at work. To my utter surprise, the 20yr old Nichicon's still tested better than my brand new replacement caps.... I tried various brands too, Nichicon, Panasonic, Cornell. Same result. Here's another, We have an OLD Sorenson DC Power Supply that was built in 1972 (>40yrs old). Same situation, I was going to refurb it a bit to make it more reliable. There was a huge Sprague cap on the output that I figured needed replacing. I researched for replacements and then measured the old Sprague. Sprague caps were LEGIT back in the day. It even has MADE IN USA stamped into it. Anyway, I measured it and sure enough, still in spec and better than any replacement I could buy for it. Caps back in the day were sure made different then they are today. One would think that they'd have to be a bit dried out, but the numbers didn't lie. If you do replace those caps, I'd be curious at getting my hands on them and testing them to see how they do (unless you ahve an LCR meter yourself or something similar)? I don't have an LCR to do the testing myself or I would. Now that you mention all of this I am curious again... These caps are also old Elna units so I may just keep them around. I believe you have inadvertently given me another quest. Dammit again capacitors. Dammit again modern crap components. One thing that sure blows about being a broke student is the inability to afford test equipment or I'd have lots of it. Can you suggest me a sub $300 LCR, preferably a bench unit? Elna's huh. They really made 'em good back in the day. I'd bet money that they still measure just fine and are probably better then any new caps you could buy. Electrolytic's are commonly spec'd with a 20% tolerance and the latest caps I've tested all measure in towards the bottom part of that 20%, even the better caps (Nichicon/Panasonic) which surprised me but I suppose they need to do that to stay competitive with the other lesser quality caps which are consuming the electronics market. Hmmm, sorry but I don't have any experience with LCR meters in that price range. I wouldn't know how accurate they are. Mine at work was $12k If you do get one, I'd be happy to measure some reference samples to compare your results to.
  41. 1 point
    Happy Friday Biches! Just hit four digits deep (1000 posts)
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    This is how much I love you fehgs. I cook, go to work, finish grilling, make a small box to pick from, make a plate, THEN share with you guys while my stomach yells bloody murder. 8 hours on the pit and I'm about to be balls deep into some ribs
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    $50,000 table? i want! It's called a Fletchers Capstan table.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    To avoid some confusion, there is no such thing as a "digital amplifier". Digital is 1's and 0's and they don't get amplified. Analog signals are amplified. The amps are Class "D" simply because that was the next progression in letters. Class A Class B Class A / B Class C Class D Class E Class F Class G Class H....etc http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amplifier#Class_D The letter D used to designate this amplifier class is simply the next letter after C, and does not stand for digital. Class-D and class-E amplifiers are sometimes mistakenly described as "digital" because the output waveform superficially resembles a pulse-train of digital symbols, but a class-D amplifier merely converts an input waveform into a continuously pulse-width modulated (square wave) analog signal. (A digital waveform would be pulse-code modulated.) That said, if you're really serious about SQ, then you'd get a Class A amp which has no crossover distortion (Class AB) and no switching noise (Class D). Problems being, they are expensive and consume a LOT of power since the transistors are constantly conducting current and producing heat. As mentioned many times above, Class AB is your best mainstream choice between noise and power consumption. Class D is great for low frequency's since they produce a lot of power efficiently, but at the expense of some switching noise. Some people can hear it, some can't. It really depends on what sounds good to you though as sound is subjective and they're your ears. So unless you're competing and need to meet some high numerical specifications, go with what sounds good to you!
  49. 1 point
    I still like my AB amps for SQ i turn the bass up only for comps but other than that its the clear seas
  50. 1 point
    Got the front under hood done thank god and anyone who lives where it gets really hot these work the best at 3000rpm these are like the industrial 120v there at your local radio shack for 20 bucks brushless motors THE BIG MACS ARE IN AND HERE YOU GO Thanks Carbon well i just got done installing the last of the tweeters Just came Here is a pic of where it is i still dont know if i want to upload the video as the car sounds so much better than the vid lol your guys choice and wood working is closed till the garage door gets fixed now Okay the video sounds like shit but what do you expect its a video the car sounds great inside still need to be tuned though
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