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Everything posted by tboorn

  1. yeah i saw that guess i half forgot. Maybe because I'm not 100% familiar with that machine and its workings as well, just saw another number even though it was "more proof", in my mind it just didn't help register as to what the distortion actually is.
  2. which is almost half the point exactly, i understand that distortion isn't clipping by definition and only sometimes do they relate, but if the DD-1 is showing that either a head unit or amp is distorting signal in some way/some times, what way is there to prove it, if not even an oscilloscope will show the amount that is happening to the naked eye? I say this purely because the type of person i am i don't like to take things at face value without proof, not saying that the proof isn't there, DO NOT TAKE THIS AS A BASH REPLY, i fully respect the product, its just after seeing this video it only further proves that we may in fact be mislead even with the best of intentions, like watching for a "clean" single on an oscilloscope, because if all we have to trust is this one device, that only has 1 red light to either prove or disprove distortion, what proof does each individual user have to further prove and back up the test. Because not everybody is always a good person, someone in the position of the DD-1 maker, could unknowingly be doing the same thing and if only that one test will prove your point, it may be hard to get the backing needed, or prove its actually true. Im just trying to expand my knowledge once again I'm not hating on the product.
  3. Fi audio forever. they're the reason i ever liked car audio, the original BTL was a force to be reckoned with and they've never disappointed me. had the btl triple stack, n2, n3, sp4, and hopefully the team in my near future each one has out shined the previous with my expectations and the fact that they pretty much personally do everything themselves in house (id say they do everything 100% but I'm sure someone would interject somehow) only helps to further my backing since i know the product is tested and built by hand.
  4. just for curoistitys sake, in B4L's decision for the battery bank when the car is off, given that we now know the system will require a 150ah-230ah load now, wouldnt the fast manner at which you are trying to draw all the potential amperage out of the batteries (1 hour) severaly reduce the amount of power they would be able to sustain. If we take a 100ah battery (like used in the answer) like the D2700, it has an RC rating of 185min, so 25 amps continuous for a little over 3 hours. If we factored it down to a 1 hour draw we would only see around 75 amps continuous (75ah), but since we are trying to discharge the power 3x faster the rated amount we could expect to see capacity loss of us to 40% since the rate at which you discharge directly affects the amount of power able to be drawn. So a 100ah battery may only be able to provide 50-60amps continuous for a 1 hour discharge(50ah-60ah). And that would be completely killing the battery, but the voltage Takedown504 would want is "good" which would be lost around 50% battery life mark as it is. So with that now potentially a rate 100ah battery falls to 25ah-35ah battery in term of real potential. I guess what im curious about is would it really be advisable to have 2 100ah batteries, or 3 80ah, and expect to draw almost 75% potential out of them and rely on them to not only last long enough to get his value out of them, but also to be able to start the car since they all will be wired in parallel with the front bat (and as said they become a draw themselves to the alt once drained they dont help charge)
  5. yeah i cant wait until someone puts a build log of the install, and what it takes to keep this monster spinnin haha.
  6. ok to the first problem at hand. -To be able to play his music as loud as it will play while driving the vehicle without having voltage issues. With this question i am going to assume that for the most part Takedown504 will be moving in his vehicle and that for 80% of the time his RPM’s are at cruising revs, 2000RPM at least, therefor giving us full amperage potential in terms of the alternator’s rated output. Since we also know that Takedown504’s car will draw 75 amps to be completely sustained at any given time while on, and that his sounds system amplifiers will require a max draw of 300 amps, he will need to be able to sustain a constant output amperage of 370 amps from the alternator in order for there to be no voltage issues. Since this isn’t a perfect world and the alternators output amperage and voltage are constantly spiking and dipping (due to RPM changes, and the change in amp draw etc) Takedown504 will also need to upgrade the primary battery under the hood in order to provide the burst amperage that may be needed when the alternator isn’t able to produce 370amps of output. So products needed: 1. 380amp alternator (given it fits, the exact vehicle wasn’t given) 2. D3100 12volt AGM battery (once again depending on group size required for primary battery) now for the fun question -to be able to play his music as loud as it will play cleanly while parked and the engine is not running for one hour. So when i originally started to answer this question i began searching through the best Lead-Acid/AGM car audio batteries to determine the appropriate bank that would be needed in order to sustain a 300 amp continuous drain for 1hr. But even with the best of car audio batteries, the main problem with lead/acid and AGM that I kept running into, was that the degradation of power is relative to the speed at which you attempt to withdraw. And sadly with those batteries, its almost exponentially negative. For example a battery that is rated at 120ah, probably got that rating because it was able to hold a 15 amp draw for 8 hours, and not actually a 120 amp draw for 1 hour like some may think. So when it comes to Takedown504's problem, just having 3-100ah batteries, or even 5, or 7 for that matter, would not matter because the amount being drawn from them in such a quick manor (1hour continuos) would significantly shorten not only their life span, but their ah rating. And we know that because of Peukerts law, which says the faster you attempt to discharge any lead/acid type battery, the less energy you can potentially get out of it. Sometimes up to 60% of its capacity can be waisted/lost just from amp draw over its rating. Also with these batteries when fully charged, the batteries have a resting voltage in the mid 13s, but as amperage is drawn and the battery loses charge, say 50%, the resting voltage will also drop substantially, and since we want good voltage for 1 hour without charge we cannot expect to use all of the batteries potential power. SO we’re looking at double up at least again and where we were was already “overboard”. So in there lies the problem. And after some research i think i found the solution for this part of the question. In order for Takedown504 to be able to sustain music for 1 hour without charging, he would need to install 2-200ah Lithium Ion batteries in the secondary location of his vehicle, connected through either an isolator or relay directly to the alternator. Because of the design of Lithium type batteries, the downfall that plagues lead/acid batteries (Peukerts law), is virtually nonexistent. Meaning not only can you draw more current over shorter period of time and expect the same factorable amp hour rating, you can also expect the same voltage practically no matter the percentage of battery life remaining (we’ll say 80% of battery is usable). it will continue to supply a constant amperage, and voltage until the battery is completely drained, unlike lead/acid in which voltage/amperage drops constantly until it dies (doesn’t matter we want good voltage). So for Takedown504, if he had 2-200ah (or 4-50ah etc etc) lithium ion batteries, he could knowingly support his system for 1 hour easily with a 300amp draw (300ah), and be confident that once that the time was up, the batteries would have enough juice to be safely recharged by the alternator. here’s one of the batteries i used when doing these calculations http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-200ah-lithium-ion-battery/ That also shows a discharge graph and RC rating which verify my thoughts on sustaining voltage constantly. I know people are freaked out about them but hey, you wanted an answer, and mathematically it works. glad i finally got to reading something recent, i always search and find past questions and topics i would have liked to try my 2cents in but then i realize they’re years old so I’ve just silently been learning as much as possible.
  7. That much neo looks insane!! in only the best ways. When i got my N3's and after doing all the research i could, people always "claimed" there was too much motor force to play well on music. And they only have 3 neo pucks. But damn that thing is PURE neo, i cant even imagine how much motor force that thing has. Any more news/testing on these yet?
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