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Everything posted by reedal
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Yes, I plan to paint them. For grills, I'll use the HAT grills, I just need to get around to buying them.
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Haha sure thing if you cover shipping. I'm anxious to test it out on my subsonic filter when I get the chance either later this evening or tomorrow some time.
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Bought a CC-1 used from CACO Should make setting all my filters on the amps pretty simple once I get this front stage finished next year
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Cut out the mounting rings for the L8's. Got started on the rings for the L6's and ended up snapping the bit. I suppose my next bit will be from MS or 12vtools since that seems to be the best choices from what I've read on here.
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XS D3100 wiring help
reedal replied to MADN00BIE's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Do you think ground to frame would cause an issue? -
A different straight bit? Or a different kind of bit as a whole? I have a 3/8 straight as well...
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Starting battery help.
reedal replied to MrSkippyJ's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Oh, and you're welcome -
Starting battery help.
reedal replied to MrSkippyJ's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
That's a hell of a deal to get a battery on. Best I got on my XS batts was 5% off from SHCA -
Starting battery help.
reedal replied to MrSkippyJ's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Then I think that is a perfect match for you then. It fits, it's the same group size as stock, and it has better specs on paper I don't see any issue. Time to pull the trigger -
What bit would be better to use? I only have a few, but I'm always willing to add more. Would the bit make up for the fact that I do not have the correct size for these speakers available on my jig?
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Starting battery help.
reedal replied to MrSkippyJ's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Does it meet or exceed the amount of cranking amps and cold cranking amps you require? -
And then there were two Sanded down the outer edges to clean up the roughness and make them exactly the same size. Unfortunately, dremel battery is dead, so once it's charged up I'll sand the inner rings/edges smooth and be able to fit the speakers in. It'll all look pretty when I'm done.
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1/4" straight bit, and my jasper jig. Edit: with a little sanding to open it up some because the jig is .xxxx too small, but the next size up is .xxxx too big.
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I do. I just wanted to give it a shot free hand. I pulled out the jasper jig, switched to 3/4 birch ply, and went to work. Look a little better Sierra? (Haven't sanded the outside down yet Only downside to my jasper jig is that it doesn't have increments that meet the dimensions of the HATs, so I cut the circles small, then sanded down with my dremel until I had a fit.
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Who has ran a level 3 in 1.25 cubes?
reedal replied to SCATHED's topic in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
If that persons enclosure at that size sounded good in one vehicle, doesn't mean it will sound the same in another vehicle. -
I do. I just wanted to give it a shot free hand.
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No mounts on the meter bezel. I didn't try to pop it into place of where my HU is, but I think the way Steve designed it, you push/pop it into the single din slot and it fits snugly. But you'd have to ask him yourself on that one. Maybe try shooting him an email and getting some tips for mounting? [email protected]
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What can I use to mount the L4 to the pillar baffle without tearing up the MDF from mounting and unmounting for test fitting and mockups? I feel like after a couple times of screwing in and out that the threads would no longer hold it in place.
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A little sanding around the outer edges, and here is a much nicer looking product. Tomorrow I will make the second one. Tonight, I am done. Too late to use power tools anymore
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So, I figured I could try and get started on the A-pillars a little. So I decided to make a template for the L1pro tweeter and the L4 full-range. I'm using some 1/2" MDF I have left over from the very first time I tried to make door pods last year around this time. I used my router and a 1/4" shank bit to cut everything out freehand, and as you can tell, it's rough but it will do, and is fixable when the time comes. I have a lot of sanding to do before then So, time to get to sanding and make it look pretty, then copy it, and I think I'll stick with using my router to cut the holes for the speakers, but use my jig saw to cut the template out
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