Neo_frog

Talk about clipping.

I have an idea. If you want to venture a bit and get lots of electrical storage.... weld out the doors, roof and floor, plexi the windshield, setup the cab for air redirection, tune just a hair lower and make a 169.9 bassracer. It CAN be done. I'll expect some pics when you start.

I know what you mean. For the longest time, I never understood it either. But honestly, until you've listened to your favorite music in an SQ car, you will have no idea of the difference. Hell, just installing six components in my driver door made me hear shit I've never heard before and it is beautiful. I'm don't install for SQ by any means, but my placement and setup has shown me quite a wider range of frequencies I've never heard before. I've sat in competition SQ cars and there's an incredible difference. But generally, ALL cars sound exactly the same (with aftermarket parts) at first. After you do it for a while, you'll start to pick up subtle differences in the stage, reproduction, and overall range being played.

There's really no limit or law regarding port area. It's just a reference if you have no idea what you're doing. Smaller ports have many advantages and many people exploit them in high SPL applications.

Well you have to remember that majority of systems employ a box that has much lower internal space than the cab of the car. Trunk systems rely on the back side of the car (or sealed trunk) for extra loading if oriented that way. Walls are where you run into that type of problem. Each time you add more exposure to the outside air, generally the resonance spikes. Unless you know your response well, in bassboxing for example, you would have to start a bit lower and turn it up until you start to unload to get your best score. That's assuming you haven't tested and you actually care about your equipment. But with normal trunk or hatch setups, depending on the size of the vehicle and position of the box, there's a chance that opening doors will barely affect the cone movement even though your peak frequency could change. Here's my example from my last setup: Enclosure: 19.7 cu; 2x DC LVL5 18s; 8kW Sealed Cab: ~42 cu Door: ~806 sq in. Peak Sealed: 32hZ Peak (one door open): 32-33hZ Peak (both doors open): 51hZ And doing the little test I mentioned above, I did start to hear some distortion with both doors open on normal music. EDIT: spelling

If the cross sectional area of the window exceeds the total effective cone area of the enclosure and the volume of air inside the enclosure is about the same as the cab...then yes a window will choke it.

He's going to "retune" your box? Enlighten me.

Are you using an MLA module or any external regulators? My MLA did this exactly, but pretty much locked at 17+ and I had to remove it.

WTF? 6 cubes for 3 12s is perfect. Hell, even on the small side. Tuning low and playing low would in fact reduce the amount of excursion of the subs at resonance. And you would be giving them about 600W at the ohm load you mentioned which is within their limits. I say, you either have nothing at all to worry about, or you are playing well below tuning. You can tell a significant difference in sound and smell with the latter.

The computers that are put in cars are specialized for a car application. They have solid state devices and can handle more vibration and temperature limits than a normal computer. Most likely your hard drives won't be possible to add hot, let alone easily. Your best bet would be USB drives stored away with it that you can readily dismount, remove and bring inside.

Of course I did! Maybe I should have clarified that huh?

I lol'd. I asked you over a year ago for it.

It's depends on too many factors to answer (cabin gain, loading, sub resonance, power, etc...) Chances are, you WILL notice a difference. As to how significant it will be, nobody can answer it. Could be a big difference or unnoticeable.

They said it all. A relay is your best bet. In fact, you could use a relay where the hot wire is from a constant source, the switched wire is the head unit remote, and the output goes to the amp. This would save you from having to run extra wires to the back and also allow you to run the fan off your remote wire at the amp without worrying about current draw since it's minimal anyways.

Permit to carry and/or conceal. Owning is different, but since he asked about a permit I figured he intended to carry.

Most gun shows have independent sellers that you can buy from. Why not just get your permit, then buy legally? It makes no sense to ask this question unless you're intending on not getting a permit.

Depends on a ton of factors. What type of setup (SPL/daily)? Gas efficiency? Price Range? Year? Cab size?

Well my pair of LVL5s did 154

39520. Weak score, but I played for a quite a while.

I figured I'd drop a Ghostbusters quote since I really had nothing to contribute.

"It's true... This man has no dick."

Yes. You can download it on ROE. Basically it's a constant 0 amplitude signal. Running it through a visual o-scope will show a straight line. It will at least give you an idea if the noise gets amplified.

I can't see the video, but if it's very subtle I would be willing to blame the head unit. Try running digital silence on high volume to see if it gets louder.

Crackling usually happens with a poor connection or solder joint. You say it only happens on volume 0? How about volume 1?