SmallTruk

I had the 1/8" plexi leftover from something else, tint cost me $17 for the roll at O'Reilly. Switch was $4 at Radio Shack. Asthetically it wouldnt be my first pick but it was the smallest push on/off I could find locally. So it cost me the price of the unit, sacrificing of a perfectly good mirror, $21 in parts (plus maybe $10 worth of plexi...?) and an hour of work. It'll be weird to have the mirror up again, it hasn't been there in at least 3 years...

Put mine into the rear view mirror. Two holes on the backside so I can adjust it. Covered it with a piece of plexi that I put mirror tint on. The switch on the top is inline on the remote wire so I can turn it off for whatever reason. Hopefully get it installed and hooked up this weekend...

So disconnect the wire at the speakers themselves...

If they're starting to peel then it's already too late. It's like tryin to buff your car after the clear coat peels off or rust formed. Sell them or get them powder coated. You DO need to polish the chrome if you aren't going to keep it clean like it was said. And letting things air dry is sure way to get water spots. Wipe them down.

Why is the crossover set to 10k? Why aren't you setting the amp with it full range?

Ive had a set in the rear for when my hatch is open. They're good for the money. Definitely able to get loud, just need to find a crossover point you like so you don't kill your ears

Silver is an excellent conductor but isn't common because of price. Copper and aluminum are good but like it was mentioned they corrode easily. Gold playing is the most common but like skittles said....find out what the metal that's plated is. Personally I use aluminum for buss bars. Its easy to get, not really pricey and with a thin coat of dielectric grease wont corrode on me.

Just get a deaign made for you. Maybe it's just me but if I was getting $90 paychecks I'd wanna make sure everything is correct before a blow all my cash on a sheet of MDF and some glue that I end up scrapping later due to a poor design.

You can't just assume. You need to find the specs for the wire you're using then fuse accordingly to that. The make fuses in excess of 300a, they're just not as common.

copper is copper. haha yeah ofc is ofc and cca is cca the only difference about audio power cable is more strands for that FLEEXXX The insulation is a lot different too. IMO if you have some tight bends you have to run the wire though then go with regular power wire otherwise save some cash and use welding cable.

Alright cool thanks. Looks like I'm going to do that than. Would you have drilled a whole or try and shove 'em through a rubber boot that has stock wires going through them? I appreciate all the quick responses guys. With a truck you can run it along the frame rail and pop it up through a hole in the floor wherever is good for you. Drill a couple holes, use grommets, pass the wire through the floor then seal it with some silicone and you're good to go.

Hell more then that. If I remember right I paid like 750.00 for a Fosgate Power 300 and that was at a discount from the store owner since I bought a lot of stuff there. shit that was expensive for what you were getting it was worth it. US made with quality parts, sometimes hand made. was good stuff back then

if your a n00b to car audio you aint gonna understand, simple as that. google and learn...

expensive it is because its old school good stuff

I mean if they sit flush and it looks clean I don't see how glassing it would improve the install...and its just an idea I'm not sayin by any means that i'll do it I wanna do whatever would be best. Easy....You'd be able to have them positioned in a better direction than towards your knee.

of course they're gonna sound different or not as loud when they're down there. they're sitting up on the dash, close to your ears and the sound probably reflects off the glass. down in those pockets it'll be either facing the seat or your leg....neither of which you hear with.

He never said what HU he had, let alone if he even needed the speaker outputs. The power wires are the important ones

So you want to add bass to a song to prove to him your system isnt made for bass heavy music? Uhh, fail...

$15 for a little tube of dielectric grease with a fancy name? That's retarded Looks small don't it. I thought so when I got some but its actually quite large at 8oz. I was surprised. Probly a 10" tube. Plus its not dielectric grease, its conductive so it actually increases your conductivity plus fights corrosion. Would be a big plus for crimped connectors. ...still retarded? Yes. If water should make contact with a grease that is conductive.....well, I think you can figure the rest out. For antenna use like it states I can see it being acceptable, for large gauge wires and a lot of current is stick with regular dielectric.

I'd go to radio shack or an auto parts store and get at least some yellow, red and black wire. Extending them all with speaker wire is just asking to get a wire mixed up and fry something.

$15 for a little tube of dielectric grease with a fancy name? That's retarded

Smear some dielectric grease over it then cover it with heat shrink.

And LOSSING It's pretty sad the amount of people that can't spell worth a damn. I'd honestly be embarassed if my spelling sucked ass like that and I was posting for the public to see. Kinda just makes you look dumber than your arguement already is...

Clean fckn truck man. You get it from Japan?

Maybe add a flux capacitor too...?