canderton01

Definitely tuned in. You've got yourself a sweet ride man. That's my favorite model year of Camaros.

I'm just going by what's in your sig, but you aren't planning on running 2 18's in the trunk of your Monte are you?

If you're going to tell us it's a budget build you kind of need to give us a budget...

That is a general statement with almost 0 factual information in there. You are also somehow COMPLETELY missing the point where the OP DID NOT say have it at moderate volume levels for short periods of time. idling is not good for your car for extended periods of time though, it can be extremely taxing on the cooling system especially in the summer heat I disagree with this entire statement. An engine is designed to run, and to work, whether you are driving or sitting at idle. As long as nothing is wrong with your engine, and the coolant system works as it should, it will not be working harder. And with much lower engine RPMs and the cat cooling down, how is the coolant system working harder anyways? It's having to work harder because when the car is stationary and the engine is running, obviously the radiator is hardly getting any airflow hence why on hot days you hear the electric fans kicking on and off every 30 seconds or so(not all cars are the same however). This doesn't make for very efficient cooling. Am I saying that you are going to cause your engine to overheat and blow if you were to leave it running for a while? Not at all. My point was continuously letting your car idle for long periods of time isn't the greatest idea. Not to mention unless you are demoing or doing something that requires the alternator, you are just pointlessly wasting gas.

idling is not good for your car for extended periods of time though, it can be extremely taxing on the cooling system especially in the summer heat

If you guys took the time to build a nice ported box.. they could be halfway decent. This is probably one of the best super cheap amps you'll find. I mean shit man, its hard to even find and xplod amp under $100. You're also going to need to factor in the amp install kit, and the materials to build the box or buy a prefab. I really don't see this coming together for much under $200. You really just can't put together an entire system for that cheap.. unless your friend just wants to buy one of those $30 preloaded roadmaster enclosures from walmart. But most stock systems probably put out more bass than those things. EDIT: didn't see that this price was just for subs and amp

I'm liking the install man. Good work. Your car brings back some memories too haha, my grandad used to drive a '99 LeSabre that looked really similar to yours.

Yeah man you'll still be able to belt out the lows like no other. I can play decaf all day just fine and flex the shit out of my car lol, but still sound good with rock/fast paced music.

^ this? 32hz will still dig down low and still pick up mid 40s to 50s also ^^ 32hz is what my box is tuned to for my Fi Q15 and I would not tune it ANY lower personally. You will start to lose a lot of output on the higher bass notes.

the cheapest decent train horns I've seen are on hornblasters.com their kits start at $250, comes with everything you need: compressor, valves, horns, etc.. Those cheapo ones like the one you listed don't sound like a real train horn at all. The are usually just an annoying high pitched tone.

I'm sorry but imo I think "donks" look like ass(no pun intended). Anything over 20's-22's on cars just looks retarted. I just laugh every time I see those old Caprices or Cutlasses with like a primer paint job, a lift kit and some clown ass 26's. Speaking of donks, this vid has always given me lulz

Yeah the currently have the components as "not for sale". AQ has also been in the process of raising their prices across the board so idk if that could have anything to do with it.

There is an American version that comes on the history channel. Not the real thing with Clarkson.

Holy shit that's crazy. I'm glad it wasn't nearly that bad here Yeah I was actually one of the lucky ones. My house is up on a hill kinda and our neighborhood is surrounded by retention ponds so my house was fine. But houses like a half mile from me got completely wiped out. I actually helped one of my buddies whose basement had 18'' of standing water because the sump pump failed.

I live in Nashville, TN and a little over a year ago we had a serious flood. Here is some footage caught by security cameras in a Pep Boys about 10 mins from my house. Crazy shit.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGXww36_R9c

wtf? whoever told you that must have been smokin some good shit

get more/bigger batteries

I thought it was negative battery to chassis and negative battery to engine block ? alt - pos chassis - neg engine block - neg

yeah I've taken my sub out a couple times and I don't use any kind of fancy t-nuts or anything. Just plain wood screws.

maybe ill put this to the test when mine comes in. yeah I think pretty much all ipods do that cuz my ipod at max volume hooked up to the head unit aux, makes the head unit distort at 30 out of 35, if I put a CD in it distorts at 34 out of 35, I know i still need to get it tested with the DD-1 though. If you are using the 3.5mm headphone jack then no wonder its distorting. That is one of the worst ways you can transfer audio because the amp inside the iPod/iPhone will cause distortion way too early. The best way to get audio from an idevice is via USB through the 30 pin connector because it is a line-level output. If you have good quality music, it could actually be better fidelity than CD's (iTunes - 320kb/s CD's - 160kb/s)

You should be able to. Just look around in the settings menus. I'm not sure about kenwoods, but on my Pioneer it's something like "USB Control Mode" and you can toggle it between "via iPod" and "via deck".

I agree. I love sonicelectronix. That's where I got my unit from. I think they were running a sale on it too because I got mine back around Christmas time and I only paid like $170-$180 iirc.

If you've always wanted to try sealed, then go sealed. That way you will eliminate the "what if" factor. imo and basing my opinion off the few sealed systems that I've heard, they can sound hella clean without an overbearing booming if you listen to other stuff besides rap/dubstep. I myself prefer lower tuned ported boxes(30-35hz), because they can belt out the lows, still get plenty loud, and like sealed can sound good with various types of music.. that's just me.

That's the exact model that I run. It's an awesome unit with a lot of nice features and it has high-voltage pre outs should your dad ever want to upgrade down the road. There is one major quirk about this unit that I tell just about anyone who brings it up. If you or your dad or whoever wants to use an iPhone, iPod touch, iPad, or any iOS device, it will often give you an annoying error code that can only be fixed by cycling through the sources. Something about iOS and Pioneer's firmware don't mix, so it will often trigger an error code within the unit. It will still work even with the error code, but the screen will just read " Error - 16" instead of the music information. This happens to me just about every other time I get in my car. It is really a non issue for me though because I have it set on the headunit to control via iPod instead of on the deck itself. If you don't think your dad will ever use an iOS device on it, then disregard everything I just said. Also note I said iOS devices, it will work just fine with regular iPods like the classic.

If you're wanting a good 12'' in the price range you gave, I'd run an AQ SDC2.5 That's just me. Also, whether or not your new system will be louder than your 10's is mostly dependent on your enclosure. aka don't go out and buy a nice 12'' and then stick in in some shitty pre fab box. You won't be satisfied.