LSN2meBoom916

OOOH NICE AMPS :watsup: Not a fan of the endcaps tho. :sick: I'd say either rhino line it or carpet.

Most trans boxes for indiglo gauges throw some degree of whine NO MATTER WHAT. -That is, I have NEVER seen/heard of a set that didn't have SOME degree of whine if you really pay super close attn to em. I have an APC set in my Integra and its almost not noticeble w/ the car running and DEFINATELY NOT audible w/ the tunes goin but if I turn on my lights even to the ACC setting (the first setting where the dash lights up) I can hear a very faint whine from the trans box. The only thing I have come up with is to isolate that trans box as much as possible and if possible completely seal it off from the outside world- as in, coat it in either resin or rubber material so it's friggin airtight-since noise travels through the air that should have some noise killing effect on it. IF however the noise you hear is coming through the speakers, it's more like what Chris was saying and you need to seperate the rca's from that box by a bigger gap or more "material" in between them I.e. metal/foam/rubber etc w/.e. would make a decent space barrier or find a new place rout them so they are farther apart. Hope that helps some. Maybe I'll look further into a solution if you post that that was no help. LMK.

X2 (Ray's usually right on 100% all the time..cept when he's wrong somehow ) I did that same kinda thing: 12ga from amp to xover, then 14ga from xover to tweet and 14ga from xover to midwoofer. Just think of it as choking it down as the "need" lessens. Full power to the xover (biggest wires) then when it splits to each individual speaker (tweeter and woofer) the wire size can get "halved" (1/2 as big wire) or even down 2 sizes like 12ga to 14ga or 16ga like ^^^ they said. I like overkill so i went 12ga to 14ga for all my front mids and just single runs of 14ga for each of the rear fill speakers.

:poster_spam: Much?

Nah Homie I wasn't gettin upset at all. I simply meant it loked like comments were taken you off in the wrong direction. Each A/C unit should have an attached power/Gnd/Rem wire and they should be around 16-14ga (pretty small-NOT like an amp wire which would be 8ga or bigger) The Epic and the Three.1 & Four.1 should all have the same "plug" that you can hard wire in to you power/gnd/rem leads (at deck or w/e ur mounting it) and then you will just run rca's in and out of that unit-in from deck, out to amp/s. Hope that clears it up. **I don't want you to mess any of your stuff up either-I'm on your side :watsup:

No prob. at all. I hope I did actually help on this, or give some better direction to head in. The 12ga will be a good thing and provide nice signal path as long as it's ok condition/decent brand etc. GOOD call on unhookin the battery. I have heard some horror stories of guys getting broken necks and other injuries from messing w/ the yellow wires under the dash and accidently deploying the airbag like 1'' from their face. Safety first. Keep us posted on rewiring it esp if you have any Q's.

AWW shucks fellas I'm glad/I hope my "explainations" help to clear some ish up. I wouldn't...and don't post if I don't think I had anything usefull/helpfull to say. I try to bring the obvious/common sense side to the "battle" and minimize the BEEF so folks can get their knowledge up and we can see some better stuff in the member builds section. I love this site and I'm proud to be a part of it. IMO, next step... is Steve's Audio and Custom Car Pro Shop :watsup: I'd put in an app and if not hired I'd be a wallfly fershizzle.

I roasted a pair of 12's w/ 600rms each. Rated power is where ti shoudl be unless you're gonna be burping it a sec or 2 at a time and I don't think you are planning on it. I run CVR's. Have for a long time and in more than 1 setup. 10's, 12's, & 15's. On 12's: Stick w/ 400rms/800max each unless you like to send em out for repair or wanna replace them often.

I would say, just put the mic where the listener would be just so the ## heads have a base reading, then If they REALLY want a comparison they can do the same and post specs/numbers with SIZE of the listening room too. The most overlooked thing about this situation is prolly HOW MANY CUBIC FT OF AIR YOU GOTTA COMPRESS IN ANY ROOM. The Tahoe has prolly....100cubes of air after displacement of box/gear/seats/etc (2ft high above boxlevel...if that, 5feet wide avg, and I'd guesstimate 10ft length from tailgate to windshield: 2x5x10=100ft cubed. Roughly? A ROOM? How big of a room? maybe 15x15x12? I know chickens room is bigger than that, plus not 100% "sealed" but just for argument, 15x15x12=2700ft cubed. QUITE a difference. AND Steve's Hoe has 4-18's and TONNS more power. So yea apples/oranges, night/day, make the analogy you want but I bet it hammers in there and sounds great. Nice work again Steve.

No prob man. I'm on AIM (same SN minus the 916) pretty late (Cali time) & usually I live here(SMD).I'm on here pretty regularly/check it once a day minimum. Hit me up w/e.

I didn't think I could make it any simpler to understand than THAT. That's how it hooks up.

Well since his wires are prolly run differently than yours I doubt him having one will help much. I have a 97 integra 2dr, which is essentially an acura version/badged civic (it is made by honda you know) and they're put together pretty similarly. In this case it's just gonna be a matter of finding either en and feeding the slack thru, or just wiggling it until you can see the end you need and pull enough slack to attach to it. I'm not saying Steve won't have some info on remmoving the ECU or w/e ur looking at behind the kick (more likely the ABS brain) but I bet he's just gonna say pull it apart till you see the wires, and extend them. it's just a common sense thing and you gotta pull one end of the wire in either direction. I've "rewired" and "fixed" a buncha cars in the same scenario as urs. Pretty much all the same, either fiind the ends and extend em or just pull it all the way out and run new ones. It's actually gonna be a better signal path if you run your own new single 12ga (or w/e size you wanna use) than trying to solder or splice into the existing stuff. I'd jsut run my own 16-14ga thru there and be done w/ it. Unless you're running some 500watt mids I dun think u need any more than 14ga. anyhoo.

Oh Lordy. Rednecks indeeeed. And yea they have that at the state fair too.

Dude NICE choice. Good price too. I'd have to have em in chrome for my ride but if you look in the system of the month nominiation thread for my car Newcents and I were just discussing 5/6way splits like those (Kapones in my case) but damn near identical other than finish. Very Nice pick and like the guys said, cant wait for some b4/after pics. props on the rims for sure.

HAHAHA! David's right... A MADMAN! and thats y we luvs ya. hahahahaa.

DUDE! You ROAST one already!?!? :w00t:

Awsome thnx for the links. I'mma have to start rounding up quite a bit of building supplies when summer gets closer as I gotta put something "new and exciting" in my ride and FINALLY get my ass over that 150db hump. The only things I'm sure of are: Painted fiberglass enclosure w/ neon-backlit plexi (slight change), Better Glow effect after neons are off, Motorized amp rack, and it's gonna be much bigger/louder (double the amps from 2 to 4 and some electrical work) I have some plans for the LOUDER though. :shiftyph34r:

Thank you sir. Exactly what I was lookin for. Do you order em online or pick em up locally? If it's local what branch you know carries em cuz I haven't scoured Home depot but I have checked most hardware stores and the auto parts shop I work at and we're pretty much limited to Bondo brand stuff.

Are you gonna get an ACTUAL Epicenter? Or maybe a Audio Control Three.1 or Four.1 Or even an Epic-160? I have the Epic-160, and I put one in the Lexus I built/posted in the build section and I have to say it is a great piece. Especially if you plan/desire to tune for MAX DB at any point, regardless of it being an A/C mic, and thus -5db or so from a TL mic, it will still allow you to test your system everyday/real time AND/or peak hold, has a built in Voltage meter/display and serves as a bass enhancment processor/unit that adds BASS to songs that otherwise suck balls on Low end. Hope that helps and maybe just post a more direct Q about the one you are getting and I or someone else can let you know how they function/install. The Epic is simplicity DEFINED: A plug that you hard wire in 3 wires (Pwr, Gnd, Remote) and then RCA's IN and RCA's out. that's it. I'm pretty sure all the other units are the same and only vary in how many RCA's you can hook up and I know the Three.1 and Four.1 have more E/Q settings i.e. more bands to tweak than just the sub output. Maybe try www.Audiocontrol.com :watsup:

I personally use Elmers/titebond or other wood glue on mdf however when joining PLEXI to mdf I prefer Elmers ULTIMATE Glue or Gorilla Glue and screws. The GG and Ultimate glue both EXPAND and fill gaps and are both quite messy if allowed to RUN, but if you have "so-so" tools or experience with them, those types of glue will make up for inconsistent cuts in mdf or other materials by filling gaps and sealing as they dry. Liquid nails is alright for sealing and joining parts w/ LOW pressure on them i.e. in attaching the front baffle to a speaker pod but I would not trust Liquid nails (glorified, quick drying silicone) to hold any sub box together or any heavy items in place.

Very nice. That Evercoat FiberTech tube...? Self drying/pre mixed? or do you mix it w/ a hardener? And the blueish overlay/finishing coat? A Rage variant? I have NEVER had any issues w/ structural or finishing glass supllies I use but I have yet to do an all out "perfect finish required" painted glass setup. So just doin my HW. Looks very good BTW.

Hmmm, I'll double check but I'm pretty sure all the actuall "dirty work/build pics" are in the build log as per Steves request for the dirtiest pix avail so the Q's can be answered b4 they're asked. As for attaching: I used 3/4" plexi AS the front of the box, and thus It was attached the same way you would attach the front of a box if it were 3/4" mdf: I predrilled it all (both plexi and the mdf it got screwed to) then I put a decent amount of Elmers Ultimate Glue (it expands a lil as it dries & is good for joining PLEXI to just about anything, including MDF), then I countersank the screws in the front of the plexi so i could fill the countersinks later w/ Bondo/body-filler and sand it smooth and in those greyish-blue primer pics the screw holes should be invisible due to this procedure+primering. So: Predrill everything, countersink everything, glue everything w/ good glue, be carefull when drilling plexi AND while screwing screws INTO those holes as it can still crack/chip, get em good and tight, and I like to "seal" the inside of my boxes the same way you might w/ silicone or caulking but I use resin/bondo milkshake on all inside seams to ensure airtight and STRENGTH in the corners. I have never gone all out like Steve and Used his "45's" But in a high SPL application it'd be a good idea. That box I built also has a piece of 3/4" plexi in the center part of the top section of the box that serves as a VERY STRONG brace and still allows light to travel around inside the box. I taped off THAT center peice of plexi about 1.5" from the edge all the way around and left the edge exposed so when I sprayed it w/ primer, & then white paint, the 1.5" gets covered by paint to hide the SCREWS that hit that otherwise clear piece of plexi. Doing so hides the screws that are needed to secure that plexi to the mdf. Then it is "Milkshaked" all around to seal it for reallies, no exceptions. Repaint and that's how it looks all seamless inside. The lil 1/4" plexi windows in the sides of that box are IN-LAID, as in sunken-in 1/4" and glued in place. Then "Milkshaked" and sanded smooth for a seamless look and primered/painted like the rest. They are mounted from INSIDE so the only force on them is still pushing them into place against the left over 1/2" mdf "flange" they are glued to. No way they gonna budge. Hope that helped and wasn't too ridiculously long winded.

Cuz B.O.S.E...= Buy Other Stereo Equipment.

I should See ya at autoramma bro.

Yea David I know. I would love to have them babies even if I had to choke em in "the buttbox" w/ 3ubes each and port it w/ about 100in^2 max of port area-UNTIL I BUILT A PROPER SETUP. BUT...I'm looking at a DEAL on some Boston G512's...4 of em for less than 600 BNIB so we shall see :watsup: If Baron can get em sold b4 i make up my mind, then more power to him. It's great deal for whoever has the $$ and jumps on em 1st.