LSN2meBoom916

Damn man. If you wanna have a "jenk setup" competition...or "who can get good output outta NOTHING I will gladly take the challenge. I got some mids laying round I could throw a box together and pull some CRAZY "built-to-scale" numbers. Biggest prob is finding an amp that wont anhiliate the tiny midwoofers. I have the stock sub outta an RSX. I could make that thing bang alraight i think in a dope box. I also have some pretty coo stocks outta various cars and a pair of EMT 6" mids i wanted to make a "magic" box for. I already fooled someone a while back w/ a magic box and 1-4" mid and they thought it was a pair of subs. Pretty sure the Powered4sound guys do it well w/ some 6'' or 6x9 midwoofers in nice ported boxes and it hammers. Check ROE. He had 10 audiobahn 6's doing 145db on a TL.

OK- When I'm not wearing my cape...I also do translations. He said "...2-Q power 12's and a "competiton amp" for $300 form his homie"...& in HIS neck of the woods, the subs new would cost hime $300 new alone from a shop. IMO, no way to tell w/ out knowing what amp (brand and part number and what condition YES it all matters) The subs are'nt that great and THE SAME OR BETTER could be got for less online but if you like them ok fine, just look online b4 you pay $300 for em USED. Other than that, NEED MORE INFO on the specs and such.

Coffee. Starbucks is ok but kinda WEAK IMO. My Home brew stuff will wake ya up. If it's Before 8pm(yes PM)-sugar/lil cream BUT STRONG, and plentyfull (cuz i aint tryin to fall asleep yet, regardless of how many hours I have/not slept) After 8pm-same as above but add something 80proof, and leave me alone. (Crown/seagrams/cuttyshark/ hell even bacardi works)

I would say if you can wait a bit, hold out till after the SMD shirts are getting bought up. If you're already pickin up some SMD gear you'll have a shot or 2 in the RAFFLE at some Fi Q 15's. Might get lucky and save $$$. Just a thought.

Maybe Steve should meter the tahoe at 10 ft like that just so we have an idea? Or would that spoil the fun for the first show it debuted here? :whistling:

WOW I dunno how I missed the tell-tale dust cap/logo. I have 3 of those BNIB in my room right now. just waiting for homes. 2-D4's and 1-D2 (ultra rare i've found)

I know it's kinda confusing... Look at it like this: The sub has 2 sides to it right? "Front" (cone/dustcap/logo) side and the "back" side (basket/magnet/+&- terminals)...and EACH side generates a WAVE (of sound)...which ever is facing out of the box will be moving in and out to a certain frequency...lets say its going "in, out, in, out"...so as it's doing that, it is COMPRESSING the air in front of it (inside the vehicle). It's also acting on the air inside the box & compressing it but "out of phase" w/ the WAVE on the other side of the speaker/cone...make sense? When the cones PUSHES OUT it compresses the cabin air, and when it SUCKS BACK IN it compresses the air inside the box. So if you flip ONE sub (inverted/magnet out) and leave one mounted normally, but fail to swap the wiring (+&-) on the inverted sub, the sub doesn't know it's been inverted and it will be PUSHING OUT when it should be sucking in to stay IN PHASE w/ the normal mounted woofer. So instead of having 2 subs pushing out and sucking back in togehter COMPRESSING air TOGETHER, you have them taking turns going in and out and you will have mucho cancellation and less BASS. BOOOOO! More bass! More bass! So just think of orientation of your subs as needing to be "in sync" (haha-not the boy band you queers) and have to going in/out at the same time (and this depends on the +&- getting flipped on any subs or speakers mounted inverted/opposite in relation to other speakers). I kinda already did an answer to this one (try the search engine up in the right hand corner next time...my previous explaination is clearer maybe?) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/in...hp?topic=2111.0 ...& this one too... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/in...hp?topic=2256.0 Hope that helps some.

Jeez dude is that lifter-tick? or is there NO oil in it? Better check that ish out b4 you kill it again :whistling:

I still cut my own circles w/ a jigsaw. I have a couple 1/8" strips of mdf that got ripped at some point or another and I just measure out a radius of w/e I wanna cut and drill the center hole, insert that drill bit, and pencil out a circle. Double drill it real close making a "slit" and start w/ the old jigsaw. Time consuming, but it keeps my attn to detail up throughout the build. I'mma get lazy and get me a jasper...or make one now that I hear they're made of plastic! JEBUS. I'mma start lookin for some decent metal stock to just drill for the radii I might need and shazzam. CUSTOM TOOLS TO BUIILD CUSTOM AUDIO FTW.

No just wire them in opposite phase. So that ones not going in while the other's going out. With subs, phasing usually isnt a huge deal, so just make sure theyre opposite, or else they will fight. In case thats not making sense, switch the positive and negative wires on the inverted sub. [glow=red,2,300]unless of course the box is divided into 2 parts and each sub is using its own airspace...[/glow] In that case you would STILL want to switch one to 180 deg out of phase as stated above. And they^^^ are right about it TOTALLY depending on your box/sub setup. Only way to know what will be better....try it both ways. Listen to it and judge w/ your ear, and get it metered to see if it's louder on the mic if you have access to a mic. Consider what is more imortant to you: Loudness to the ear, loudness on a mic, or "how cool" it looks.

Its actually from the MTX website. Their "definitive" power war conclusion crap. I dunno what it proves other than yes you can throw more juice at a 9500. Whooppee freakin doo. I don't really care how much power a sub can take, in fact I prefer a mid-power level sub over some crazy power hungry woofer. If it "CAN HANDLE" that much, the suspension has gotta be pretty damn stiff, thus you will NEED a shitload of power to even get it moving a decent amount. For you guys w/ the tahoes/vans/excursions and truck based SUV's, thats all well and great but you will have to shell mucho $$ to buy enough amps to run them as well. I'd personally rather find some medium power subs that will have a higher sensitivity to power so they will GET MOVING off less than 1000watts rms and I can run a few of em w/ out having to mount 3 alternators under hood (not happenin in my Integra anytime soon). Not having mentioned SQ...how's the sq on them MTX's? personally, the only setups I've heard at comps that were using them (9500's) sounded terrible. I do know MoneyMan (Jon I think) w/ the Bagged BMW was running them (4-12's poking thru the rear deck) and his was supposedly a SUPER SQ setup (may very well be) but I have never heard it and the only time I saw him compete w/ it was at a CMI show at Sac raceway and My car was louder on the mic. He said he was still trying to fig out the tuning then so it may have gotten louder since. Point is, power isn't everything, and OF COURSE their product will shine when they do the "testing" comparisons.

Wish all the truck guys I know had chevy's instead of DODGES. :waaa: :waaa:

Great story cents. MOMS KICK ASS! Mine has saved me a time or 2 for sure. BTW....I got a fix-it ticket last week on my day off for no front plate. Fuckin Rancho Motorcycle cop. They're bored and $$ hungry sums-a-bitches. I showed him my plate w/ the big gash in it from the last fender bender and said i just havnt got the new bracket yet but of course he was "just doing his job"...being a fag. $10 down the drain and I gotta go git the damn mounting bracket which will be $25 and I gotta re-open the insurence claim from when I was crashed into the 2nd time so i can get reimbursed...guess thats my excuse to take it in & make em fix the headlights properly this time. Gayness.

Well, at night...I can predict zero visibility. Thats for sure. No worries. w/ No NV just wait till daylight. Glad she's running again for ya.

NAH! I think i'd stick w/ tens in that thing...about 24 of em ;D (21 more to go buddy) Nice lookin truck man. I'm jealous about the amount of room you guys w/ur SUV's have and all the room to WORK in there it's like unlimited, and they make bolt up 3 alt kist em and all. meh. x2 NOT jealous about the gas guzzlin, but so it goes. <--Lookin forward to some BIG thing in that monster. Good luck w/ it.

SMD guys? behave? wait around for pics/vids and not go "GIMME GIMME GIMME GIMME!!!!" HAAHAHAHAHA. Good luck w/ THAT one. BTW-I AM being have.

Nice lookin box man. good job. lookin forward to some in car shots and feedback on how it sounds. Why not cover it? that could be a nice lil setup if you just covered the box in carpwt or paint/undercoat/rhino liner.

blue cones dont add 8 db they add 3 and black or silver cones are the loudest ever. period. Pyle is basically garbage built by idiots. Save your $$ and pick some better name brand stuff that is proven to be reliable rather than burn up on you or sound horrible. go to ROE (realmofexcursion.com) & check out the vuds of pyle subs. i dont think there is even one vid that doesnt end w/ a flaming woofer. that should tell you something. ~2pesos.

very nice work as usual man. great lookin truck. What sub is that back there? Any specs/parts layout or did i miss that one sum how?

I'm pretty sure that Q about the batteries being "hooked up" was more of a request for the schematic as in + to + and neg- to neg-...SOOOO many Q's floating around bout How to add one or more batts and should it be parellel/series etc. MUCHO confusion IMO. BTW-GREAT LAYOUT STEVE. Very clean and something I've always admired about them TRUE/hardcore RTA/SQ guys (I'm sure you've seen some) is even their layouts are all nice and clean and pretty and have pix of EVERY SINGLE DAMN CONNECTOR! That's some dedication right there..& a sh*tload of pics. I had a Q myself too: How much are you Sponsored? Like free subs? discount on subs? And RF too w/ the amps? Just curious and I dun need exact Numbers, but I remember at one BOTB the announcer (patrick maybe) said you had over $30,000.00 worht of gear in there and still won BANG for your buck....? I was left scratching the dome for like a good minute and still a lil fuzzy on it. I think I totalled my CURRENT PRODUCT costs up (msrp like they do it not actual costs) and it was something like $3k tops. Maybe that should be a thread. "How much has your love for the system cost you?" haha.

Well, This is prolly OLD NEWS for any of the OG's, But I'll drop this lil tip here as it seems less-well-known than I'd thought: When using Terminal cups or premade wire hookups on a box, If it HAS to be a "panel" or "cup" which are "nice and clean looking", NEVER TRUST PREFAB PARTS. They are made QUICKLY and CHEAPLY in MASS. We all know them to be much weaker (and thus the most likely place for a leak/breakage) than MDF or fiberglass...so... Take a look at what Steve did on the towers and LOOK CLOSE at the terminals. Steve didn't just slap some Terminals in and call it a day, he rhino-lined over the top of them to give them: 1. a better finish, 2.a better SEAL, & 3. a lil more strength. I have gone as far as coating the inside of the thin plastic terminals w/ resin or resin/bondo milkshake to ensure they are strong enough for the pressure of the box. As long as you leave the connections in place and cover over them it will only serve to make the CONNECTION stronger too and less likely to SHAKE LOOSE inside the box. Laying a layer of actuall glass aint gonna hrt either esp. if you cut a lil hole for ur wires and just glass around them (that is only necc. if you wanna keep the terminals "removable" or disconnectable w/ cutting the wires). The other option is to mount the terminal normally and make a 2nd baffle inside the box as a "2nd interior wall" essentially doubling the thickness where the terminal is and on that 2nd/inside baffle ONLY drill big enough holes for your wires to pass thru & them silcone/liquid nails them up nice and airtight.It will look normal on the outside but be airtight and strong inside. If there's "pressure" inside the box pushing out, the less surface area that pressure has to push on the less likely the box will suffer a structural failure of leak (meaning make your "weak spots" smaller...or stronger). Any help there?

If you look in the build of my car you can see how I did it w/ a combo of dynamatt material (Cascade) and foam in between the interior panels. NO rattle @ all. If you check the pics its pretty self explanitory but ask away if you still got Q's.

Hmmm, actually I'd prolly end up comin back to Hifonics and just say run em at 2ohm to be safe and they should work fine. Good product just run em within their limitations like you would anything else and they'de be fine. They are great for the $$. only "better" amps I'd say/recommend would cost more. You could look into a couple PA 3000Db's as they are kinda favorites round here-for good reason in that: Low cost & lotsa juice. The PA Db line as well the their newer SL line might work for ya. There's a thread or 2 about them on here(SMD) maybe read thru and see if it's your cup-o-tea. Kicker amps would be a good choice as they are solid performers but will likely run you a bit more $$ as would Fosgate Power series amps, but TONNS of juice there.

I think a lot of folks hate on Hifonics amps due to them choking/burning up at LOW impedence. I know they are rated at 1ohm and claim to be stable there, but I personally would not run one below 2ohm mono as I KEEP hearing about the 1ohm and below mishaps. 1st: i'd check and make sure that 148db was on a TL mic rather than an A/C mic. I personally HAVE 4-CVR 12's, sealed in a hatchback and I pull those exact ###'s off my PG T1200.1-But ONLY on an A/C mic. Just saying double check that B4 making that ## Claim. TL's are sum tuff mothers. 2nd: I have heard that those Massive Subs need to be tuned REAL HIGH like 50hz+ or they crap-out/burn up. MIND you that is HEAR-SAY, but I did hear it and it was 2nded by a few other folks so I'm saying MAYBE not the best subs for a DAILY setup where you wanna tune lower for MUSIC, but if you're looking for a pure SPL/burp setup that might be right up ur alley. 3rd: L7's are great subs. They get very loud in ported boxes, however I have heard complaints agains their SQ. But then again, I've heard prolly just as much FOR their SQ if the box is proper. So I guess only roll w/ the L7's if you're confident you can build it JUST right or rebuild until it is. I can only speak for the CVR line personally as that is, and has been "my bag" for quite some time. Hope that helps.

OOOH NICE AMPS :watsup: Not a fan of the endcaps tho. :sick: I'd say either rhino line it or carpet.