Skullz

Have the subs on the left just like the ones on the right where the top one is towards the center and the back one to the outside and you should be able to place both ports between each side in the center. EDIT: Another option is all 4 subs in the center at an angle and the 2 open corners would have enough room for the 2 6" aero's.

That thing prolly couldn't boot windows xp let alone anything newer.

Where is the noise coming from, the top, bottom or middle? maybe a loose dust cap thats flapping away.

Use your finger and tap around the speaker next to the surround on the cone and if you hear metal to metal contact you'll need another sub, Its the coil rubbing on the pole as it travels up and down.

Did you pull up on the cone and check the spider outside on the basket and inside next to the coil?

Pull the sub and check the spider to make sure it hasn't come loose or around the coil to make sure its still attached. Just pull up lightly on the cone and see if something is loose.

Might be a bad or broken ground inside the plate amp, have you tried using it off an mp3 player or another computer to see if it is coming from the speaker/sub combo?

Great pads for use on stock rotors. http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php

Might be able to pull it off with subs inverted and the port on the outside and minimal bracing inside, you will need to make to the max dimensions and have to build it in place.

Don't fuse or run wires by watts but rather by amps as that way you have a more accurate way of knowing what load the wire is capable of carrying. If your amp is capable of using or your system is capable of using more than 250 amps you'll want to make 2 runs of 1/0 to the back to cover your power needs. Fuse each run at 300 amps at both ends.

Try hooking the h/u up to another battery in the car and see if that changes anything, jizazz12 asked that back a few posts ago. Is the h/u grounded to the chassis or are you just using the wiring harness for all the connections, if your not grounding the h/u you really might want to do that to either a part of the metal under the dash or somewhere on the firewall.

You can wire each speaker to each channel @4ohm or bridged @8ohm, won't work any other way with that sub. Either you'll have to get a 2nd sub or new amp to run @2ohm for it to work.

We need more info like space available, size of the subs and the amount of power being used will go a long way in helping you get something made.

Try rolling back to an older version and see if you still have the problem, they may have installed some new copy right stuff preventing copy righted music from being copied.

Try - [email protected], i got an answer pretty quick.

Round as in pvc pipe, exhaust pipe, carpet tubes, sono tubes and anything round with a hole in it to use as a port.

Switching to round is 9 to 12 and aeroports are even less, so switching to a more efficient port can help you. EDIT: round port of 2x6"x18" with a .3 dis will put you at 34hz and a net of 5.5

They must good enough for a company like that to take a chance selling them with warranties.

You can always get something like this in case you do run the battery too low. http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/battery/12-volt-jump-start-and-power-supply-38391.html

Don't get caught driving and texting here in michigan as it will be primary offence meaning they can pull you over for it and issue a ticket. http://news.yahoo.com/s/detroitnws/detroitnws_ts1844

Awesome

Way back in the day i used to buy the best h/u out till i got tired of replacing the damn thing every year from cd skipping and finally wised up and got the entry level h/u's. It's really nice to be able to use a medium that doesn't skip.

Gonna have to upgrade to something with an AUX and or USB inputs along with maybe a ipod input if needed.

He is quick and prompt.