snafu

Post a pic of your new grounding arrangement.

Yep, this is not uncommon with Optimas now-a-days. The red top in my Mustang typically rests at between 11.8 and 11.9 VDC. I really can't comment why this is because I'd be guessing, but this is something that I run into often. Maybe one of the battery gurus here can chime in - Nate? Scottie?

Mikey, I do this all the time. Hit me up at any of the above and give me some specifics on exactly what you want to turn on/off and I'll help you out. I can custom make you anything you need in regards. Thanks guys for the referral.

Not a problem. The only stupid question is that one you didn't ask. I like the JL clamps the best as well because they have a really classy look when installed.

For car audio applications, the military style or JL Audio clamps are better suited as they can each accommodate three large gauge output leads. This is really only an issue on the positive terminal - charge lead, stock power lead to starter, and a power lead to the rear for amplifiers. If you're going 4 AWG though, the RF clamps work just as well because you can fit (2) 4 AWG leads in each of the large outputs and there are two. The reason the RF rings are included in the Big 3 Kits is so that the installer can easily connect the stock battery cable to the new battery clamps without any specialized electrical tools. If you prefer the JL Clamps, then we can do the JL fuse holder in lieu of the RF fuse holder so that it all matches for the same price.

I can make you a kit with 2 AWG, or even 4 AWG if you're on a budget - that is not a problem. The reason we currently only offer 1/0 AWG for the Big 3 Kits is that is because most are only interested in that. Look at our Charging System Upgrade Kits on our web site for specifics on the current capabilities of the 2 AWG and 4 AWG kits as we do offer them in that product family. These are similar to the Big 3 Kits, only with Rockford Fosgate or JL Audio battery clamps. As far as the fuse goes, we call that option "Fuse The Charge Lead" - and it adds $50 to the price of the kit. This includes a Rockford Fosgate weather resistant ANL fuse holder, correctly sized fuse, and the additional length of wire on the charge lead. [We stock ANL fuses in all the popular sizes.] Yes, I am aware that there are lower priced fuse holders out there, but I haven't found one yet that works as well as they (and the JL ANL fuse holder - we also stock) do. One of the reasons we use this kind of fuse holder is so that the user can cut the wire in the desired place and connect both ends to the fuse holder with only an allen wrench. None of our kits are designed so that the user has to crimp a ring terminal to a large gauge wire as so few have the correct tool to do so. Surf around our site a bit, you'll find that we offer all kinds of cool kits, components, and accessories.

This is the purpose of the fuse - to protect the vehicle's electronics from excessive voltage in the event that the regulator fails. That's it. The factory will always use a fusible link on the charge lead for this very reason. In all my years, I've never seen this happen but we ALWAYS educate people about the possibility.

I just sold a kit to a guy in a 2001 Ford Explorer. He bought the 4 foot kit and it worked perfectly. Just measure the distance between the alternator and battery and take into consideration a nice smooth routing of the cable to the battery. This is how you determine length of the kit you need. If you also want to fuse the charge lead, then we simply increase the charge lead by 1 foot so that you have enough cable slack to easily mount the fuse holder. Keep in mind, all SMD Members get a 10% discount.

www.ceautoelectricsupply.com - I also have a forum here in the Partner's section

Ain't iPods great? In the old days, we had to use a source unit on a bench powered via a power supply to do that. There are three possibilities here: 1. The source unit is indeed the source of the noise, via it's connection to the vehicle's wiring. If that is the case, the amplifier will simplify amplify this noise. 2. The connection between the source unit and the amplifier is the source of the noise. In this case, the source unit will have no audible noise out of the preamp outputs with all RCA cables disconnected. The act of connecting the source unit and amplifier is creating a "ground loop" which is caused by a difference in ground potential of the source unit and amplifier - IE, when these two ground points are tied together, voltage flows from one to the other. 3. The preamp section of the source unit is damaged - IE, the shield of the RCA is no longer connected to ground. This is easy to determine if you have a DMM. Simply power down the source unit, disconnect all RCAs from it, and measure continuity between the shield of one of the RCAs in question and the chassis of the source unit. If you get no reading, then this is the case. If #3 is your problem, then the fix is to replace the source unit as well as determining what caused this damage to begin with. If #1 or #2 is your problem, then you may choose to seek the help of a professional fluent in the art of troubleshooting engine noise.

Upon re-reading your posts, is it possible that you did not ground the amplifier properly before powering it up? If so, the amp may have sought ground via the shield of the RCA cables and damaged the preamp section of your source unit.

This can be one of the most difficult problems to track down and eliminate. Keep in mind, your RCA cables are likely run along the body of the car under the carpet . . . the body being the return path for all things electrical. The fact that they are on the opposite side that the power wire is run could either be helping or counting against you. Really obnoxious noise is usually quite easy to eliminate. That typically indicates a problem with a component. Your explanation above is somewhat unclear. Did you say that you unplugged the RCA cables from the INPUT of the amplifier AT the amplifier and plugged your iPod directly into the amplifier and still had noise? Or, did you mean that you plugged your iPod into the RCA cables at the front of the vehicle near the deck? Be careful unplugging and plugging RCA cables with the amplifier powered up. In some cases, the input section of the amplifier can begin to oscillate with nothing plugged into it. Bad things can happen as a result . . .

I sold the Megatron's for years. When it comes to a flooded lead acid battery, they are quite good. Keep in mind that these types of batteries are not designed to be deep cycled (run flat), so avoid that at all costs. Be smart and avoid playing your stereo for extended periods of time with the engine not running. As far as your wiring goes, my company offers complete kits (which include battery terminals) that are designed to take the guesswork out of the installation. Currently, I only offer Big 3 Kits in 1/0 AWG, but I could easily custom make one for you with 2 AWG or 4 AWG for less money. Visit our forum here or our web site (click the banner in my sig) for more info if you like. We also offer a wide variety of quality battery clamps for nearly any conceivable installation - check our web site for that.

Funny, I didn't see this before I replied in your other thread. Here are a few classic home amps that are considered to be great bang for the buck: Proton AA1150 (pay no attention to the power ratings) Proton D1200 (same - the most powerful amplifier offered in the 1980s . . . I don't care what anyone tells you . . . ) Carver M500t (more powerful than the AA1150, but not the D1200 Phase Linear 400 (caution - they didn't nickname them the "flame linears" for nothing . . . ) Adcom GFA-1 (A nice little 200 wpc amp that works great with 8 ohm loads ONLY) I've owned 'em all before moving on to McIntosh power amps. Be prepared to have any of these amplifiers tested and possibly reconditioned before putting them to use.

Nice set up. Don't be scared to put some power on those Vegas and wake 'em up . . . 200 wpc from a dedicated amplifier would be a great start.

If you decide to relocate it, I offer a complete relocation kit that includes electrical protection for the run of cable. You can learn more HERE. I sell a lot of these, and am actually installing one in a 1965 Chevelle as we speak - along with a Taylor battery box, Moroso ON/OFF switch, and one of our ON/OFF Add-ON kits (all of which I also sell). Guys - 8 runs of 1/0 AWG? Really . . .

I can build you exactly what you're looking for. A circuit to do this requires three relays and no resistors. It would have two speeds - high and low, and be compatible with a wide variety of such fans. If you're interested, PM me.

The old saying is, "the lead dog gets the bloody ass."

X2

Lookin' good. Does Wal-Mart still sell Fleckstone?

Can I buy your Gemini? Not for sale . . . wish I would have kept more of the HiFonics and Autotek stuff I used back then . . .

LOL . . . you guys have it made with your selection of 2,000, 4,000, and 5,000 Watt amps now-a-days. Back in "the day" when we sold that stuff new the Thor was the cut-off point for a vehicle with a stock electrical system. A Boltar, Atlas, ISIS, or Zeus definitely meant that we were upgrading stuff. A "big" alternator then made 190 amps, sold for around $600.00 and typically required serious modifications to install it - both mechanical and electrical. And yeah, good amps sold for between $1 and $2 per watt . . . I still have a HIFonics Series VII Gemeni . . . probably won't ever sell it.

Put a bunch of them in, but most installs were plagued with engine noise problems. That's probably the main reason why I got so good at troubleshooting motor noise . . . The 5002 was certainly a powerhouse for the day. I worked at the shop that received the very first pair of 8002 amps with gold shrouds. We also had a VW Bug with (4) 5002s, 652s, 452s, PA2, XO-2, (EQTs) etc. Each of the 5002s were bridged to a Kicker C-18. The bottom end in that bug sounded GOOD! All in all, I think the 2502 was my favorite LP - good bang for the buck.

Um-k . . . the switch you refer to is designed to reverse the phase of the connected subwoofer(s) at the line level. It's two most common uses are: 1. For SQ systems, this allows you to quickly reverse the phase of the subwoofer(s) so that you can get them to integrate better with the front speakers. Keep in mind, in such systems, it is not desirable for the bass to sound as if it is coming from the rear of the vehicle. In some cases, reversing the phase can be the ticket so that the location of the subwoofer(s) becomes less detectable to one's ears. The net result is that the subwoofer(s) will integrate better with the front speakers and the transition from low bass to mid bass is smooth - although each is produced by different drivers in different locations. 2. For high-powered woofer systems with pairs of strapped mono amplifiers, the switch is used to invert the phase of the amplifier used to drive the negative (-) half of the wave form.

Bro, that'll be the opportunity of a lifetime. I lived in Europe for a bit when I was 18 and loved it!