ChevyBoy95

18.0v

I have a Kenwood KDC X595, and it is clip free to 35 or 35 and gives 3.98v of the 4v rating clean with subwoofer setting on 0.

I have a single 1000w 4 channel that keeps up with my wall on ~12kw. It is all about staging/imaging IMO. Pro audio helps, cone area helps, but all in all, there is no equation to find this out, since there are a TON of factors.

I would personally swap the stock battery to the comparable XS battery S series model. You "can" have the d3100 in the rear and the stock up front, but mixing battery chemistry's is not something you want to really do.

depends on the vehicle, some at 60a, some are 80a, some are 140a, and so on, it is vehicle dependent on what your stock does.

100a of alt for every 2000w is what I do. So if you run 6000w, get a 300a alt, 4000w, 200a alt. But in most cases GET THE BIGGEST YOU CAN FIT/AFFORD

I have had 3 mechmans... all were 14.0v hot. Alts don't do full amperage at the voltage they charge @ with no load, so in reality... I dont get why people get hung up on stuff like this. Sometimes if it is hot enough, ill be @ 13.9v with dual alts.... only thing that matters is when the knob goes to the right, my voltage stays out of the dirt rather than looking down and going, "look how awesome that is.... 14.5v with no load!" edit : about the 1600w and dropping into the 12's with a 250a alt and 2 yellow tops??? you should be able to hold 13+ without a battery in the vehicle with that alt and the amp full tilt.

It is a AAA title.... but i bought witcher 3 a few days ago.... i cant put it down... like it haunts me... i love it!

BUILT in the US, not made. Don't get them confused. Being built one by one at DC is what keeps quality control in good standing.

Houston TX 6 Years Lurked for a year or so before that.

I use a kenwood as well and only have sun issues if i leave the display blue, but instead i go to the options and can do 30+ different colors and find the one the sun doesnt mess with.

13.8v idling on 2 190a alts? regardless of battery bank, if at idle, so realistically probably 70a-100a per alt, drawing 900-1000a (if you are really getting power out of it), there is no way you are holding "13.8v full tilt sitting still." I have 2 270a alts, and 6 group 31's, 1 group 34 (4 XS power @ 3 deka's), and with 2 5k boards @ .5 each, i can get it down to 12.9v without even clipping the amplifiers.

looks clearly right now.

if by "other" Steve Meade you mean Steve Mead in Texas... he is one of the most helpful and friendly people I have met in the car audio scene to date, known him for about 4 years now. it wasn't a shot at you, i just meant if you meant the texas steve, it most likely isnt him.

if by "other" Steve Meade you mean Steve Mead in Texas... he is one of the most helpful and friendly people I have met in the car audio scene to date, known him for about 4 years now.

Just sent one in. Might switch my 270's to 370's after upgrading my wiring

Is the Zv4 well rounded ? I was looking at the X series but a dealer told me that it murders the lows but doesn't offer much in the midbass area (40-60hz) which would result in a huge cutoff from my components to substage. If the Zv4 is more well rounded then that would be good (my previous sub was sundown and I wouldn't mind staying with them if the price isn't too bad). Sounds like your dealer doesn't know what he is talking about.... What a sub can do is important, but what will make or break what it can do in your vehicle will be the box design.

The Zv4 is 1750wrms, which will take 2kw all day long.... or you can get the NSv3 which is rated for 2500wrms, but can take a good amount more. For daily, and your power, I would probably get the Zv4.

I rest at 13.01v..... and i rarely charge my batteries other than driving around. And 13.01v is with it sitting for 24+ hrs.

Yep, last time i shipped mine it fit with padding into a USPS flat rate for 5.95 Agree 100%

I would do it. AMM1 would be fun to play with.