BeAlLsTaR13
S.O.T.M. Winner-
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Everything posted by BeAlLsTaR13
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I work at a shop, but we do way more than just audio. Starters, alarms, rims, bunch of truck and vehicle accessories. But when it comes down to it your gonna want to have a huge background in the 12volt world. I thought I knew a ton when I got the job, it was the opposite I knew little compared to what I was working with. But also learning along the way is what helpped me most. I was paired with people for a long time, sometimes still am when people do larger jobs.
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This is for you Jacob!
BeAlLsTaR13 replied to Jman08's topic in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
meh, sealed score? -
Say what? Trunk Blowthrough for 4 sa-12s?
BeAlLsTaR13 replied to BEEMDUB's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
thats not gonna be nowhere near enough air space for the subs, only about 2.75, if that per side, which you need a minimum of about 3 cubes per side, 3.5-4 per would be recommended. each side is actually about 2.12 cubes after ports and driver displacments. -
2 15s ported gonna be like 6.5-7 Yes ported, but those are the air spaces after port and driver displacement you'll want, will be 7-8 gross atleast before port and driver displacments
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5.5 - 6 cubes would be best What do you think, how big would the enclosure be using 3 12s?
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I bought an autopage RS-915LCD few months back, finally finding time to get around to installing it. It comes with a dual zone shock sensor, however I was told I could wire up added sensors (such as a second DZ shock sensor, proximity, etc). However there is only 1 sensor port in the unit. I contacted auto page about it and they said even though the brain contains a single port for the dual zone shock sensor, you can still wire in added sensors, you have to wire them in together. They will just share the same trigger, both will remain fully functioning as they should. Anyone have any idea on how I would wire the dual zone shock sensor it comes with, along with the added proximity sensor I have for it together?
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dunno why people are hatin on this kid, he's just tryna save money
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Oh that's shitty lol. Could try something along the lines of a 4th order of you have space. May need to be built in the trunk, port firing through the center peice
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I would try 1 of 2 things 1. Trunk "wall" if you have the height, use the opening of the trunk (when seats are folded down) for the front baffle, with the box being in the trunk. It'll be sealed off, I'd try an aero to save some room if you can. 2. Sub up, now I'm 90% of the time against sub up in a trunk, just cause it'll cause terrible rattling and a few other things, but with an 18 you are very limited on box designs.
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because they are only stable at 2 ohm when strapped. I want to run them each at one ohm I dont want a 3500 watt amp putting out 2000 watts. and its more straight forward to wire when they are seperate? I hate having 2 wires crammed into one terminal. I would like them strapped, but i though I could just strap them so each one was paralell to each woofer but I guess not. I don't see why they can't make amps that allow you controll both without strapping. I'm lost You do know when 2 amps are strapped at 2 ohms...each amp sees 1 ohm right? You should do some more research on how things work before you go playing around with "7000" watts before you blow shit up. Have you even opened the manual or looked at specs? Clearly states 7000 w rms strapped @ 2 ohm mono...
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Why don't you just strap them @ 2 ohm...won't need to worry about gain matching (unless you buy a CC-1) and won't have to worry about a splitter to use a single remote knob