fr34kout

I don't think that's what he was trying to ask exactly. OP, like you were getting at the volume is not going to be even from deck to deck. "Volume 10" on a deck that only goes to 35 will obviously be louder than on a deck that goes to 62. You pretty much hit the nail on the head, decks who's volume number goes higher simply gives you a wider range of options between 0 and full tilt. But like zx3 said, the important thing is to find out at what volume the deck clips at and set everything according to that. You want the signal to be clean from the deck to the amp and from the amp to the speakers.

Gotta agree with Ryan, even though it might be fun and a good learning experience if you really want to use the coil in the sub I would probably buy one. You probably only need a few specs, I.D., O.D., Height of winding, impedance, number of coils.

If you're going to give somebody shit about grammar, at least post something useful in the thread. Makes you look like a dick when you only post to criticize someone without adding anything to benefit the topic at hand. Not supporting bad grammar, just saying damn man too many people chime in about this without adding to the conversation. It's the internet, not everyone takes the initiative to use proper grammar, the main thing is that they can get their point across. You can understand what he's trying to say right?

If it was installed by a shop and shit is going wrong, they should have to replace everything that broke because of their error. Unless they can trace the problem to something like you said where the headunit malfunctioned and brought down everything with it, then maybe through the company? Not really sure.

Follow the + terminal on the top. The power goes to the right through the coil of the 1st sub, on to the 1st coil of the 2nd sub, to the 2nd coil of the 2nd sub, and lastly to the 2nd coil on the 1st sub before it comes full circle to the - terminal.

lol@153@36hz WEAK. Car only feels like 144 in the front seat.... nah nah nah. Do those upgrades we were talking about and I bet you'll easily do 155 on music without changing the box at all. Then you get to play with the box and get the most out of it

I would either center the sub on the baffle, or make it so that the very edge of the port lines up with the very edge of the sub. Basically draw a horizontal line from the end of the port, and move the bottom of the sub to that line.

It's not that you don't get port noise. Aero ports are circular which greatly reduces turbulence vs a traditional slot port. It requires less port area (rule of thumb is usually 14-16 per for slot ports, 9-12 for aero ports), takes up less space in your box, and when used correctly can yield in higher db levels. Most people use slot ports since they're free (you already have wood to build the box, it's just 1-2 more pieces) versus paying additional money for aeroports. If money is not a factor, go with the aeroports. If you're on a budget, use a slot port just make sure to use the appropriate area.

It depends on what amp you're using. If the amp has 4 terminals (2 positive 2 negative) usually you can wire everything to just 1 of each terminal, sometimes it may want you to wire to all 4 of them. You should be fine wiring all + and all - to their own bolts and running 1 wire from each bolt to the amp. That's how I have my SAZ-4500 wired up.

And for the OP, as long as you are sending your speakers CLEAN power and don't push them too hard, they should be able to handle more than RMS. The question is how much more than RMS, that's the hard part. Me personally I'm running Image Dynamics XS 6.5" comps in my front doors. My SAX 100.4 is bridged to each speaker, so each mid + tweeter combo is seeing around 300 watts when the RMS is 125. I've blown 2 sets of these speakers though. The first set was my fault, the HPF on my deck didn't get turned back on so they were playing full range and blew on the drive home. My second set was Oscoped with a -6db test tone @ 1khz and blew the same day. I'm on my 3rd set, I turned down my gains about 1/8th of a turn and play my deck at 35/40 instead of 38/40 now. No problems for about 6 months.

That's not how efficiency works. If an amp is 60% efficient and is rated to put out 100 watts @ 4 ohms per channel, it means that 100 watts @ 4 ohms per channel is 60% of the current that it draws. You will get the output out of the amp regardless of the efficiency, however a less efficient amp will have to draw MORE power to make the same power. Edit: Feel like clarifying with an easy to understand example. Say you have a sub amp rated to do 1000 watts @ 1 ohm, but it is only 50% efficient. That does NOT mean you will only get 500 watts out of the amp. That means the amp has to draw 2000 watts worth of power to send 1000 watts to your sub. The other 1000 watts is basically lost as heat.

Mean video. So you and amber living with Min and his gf?

Currently 684:4500, soon will be 1244:4500

Currently at 8:1 (1 set ID XS 6.5" comps, 1 set ID CTX 6.5" comps, 1 18" SMD) Hopefully in a few months will bump that up to 20:1 (4 pairs of Selenium Midbass drivers and 4 pairs of Selenium Super Tweeters for front stage, 1 set ID CTX 6.5" comps for rear, 1 18" SMD) Later I'll add another sub but wanna work on the car itself first.

Just pointing this out, you changed the length of the RCA's 3 times. First you said 30 ft, then 20 ft, then 30 ft again, then 20 ft again.

yeah, cause its an acoustical impossibility for DC subs to play below 150db. you mad? Sounds more like logic to me

Damn so still guna be rockin 3 tonight? You must be all salty, was just about to have all 4 and then this happens. Oh well get 1 month left before you really need it.

The bolt directly stamped to the case is your ground, the one you can see in the picture. The other bolt is positive.

Actually most companies that recommend break in will usually tell you something similar to 1/3 RMS power with 20 hz test tones. Some companies say 1 hr, some say 20 hrs, some say 2 days. Sometimes they say free air, sometimes they recommend an enclosure, sometimes just in your car half volume. Some companies tell you not to worry about break in and just wang it once you get it, that's not to say it's the best way to break it in, more like saying not to worry about it. And sometimes companies will break subs in themselves.

Solo X recones don't need CA Glue? They just drop in... Anyways I would take it easy for a week or 2 before you start ripping into it. Gives the spiders a chance to loosen up, don't want to push it close to Xmax when those are still fresh, might end up ripping fibers or breaking glue.

Nope it's never been done ever in the history of SMD subs. Why would it sound like shit? The only difference is you'd have to change the phase to 180 and you'd gain a little more area inside the enclosure.

I got an 18 and still seat 5, and I'm planning on walling 2 18's in about 2 years but I won't be able to go much bigger than that without 86ing my rear seats. Friend of mine is running 4 18's in a Sequoia even with the window line and still seats 5. Just wish I had that kind of room lmao. Even if I wanted to wall 4 18's, I couldn't do it traditionally. Don't have 40" top to bottom behind my rear seats, would force me to 2 seats.

If you know you're going to end up with a big system, get a full size SUV you won't regret it. For a solid 4 months the only car I was looking at was a Dodge Magnum, when I was finally ready to buy I went to check one out in person and was disappointed with the trunk size so I went with an SUV. Bought the Envoy an hour later without doing any research anything. Not that I regret buying this car, but looking back if I would have thought it out I probably would have got a Yukon instead simply for more trunk room.

I used to think 140 was loud in my saturn till I heard my first 145. Now I'm doing 147-148 and I'm used to it, but luckily a group of guys meet up every wednesday at a bar and there's a couple guys quite a bit louder than me. That's how I get my fix haha. Loudest I've sat in was 154ish, but tuning was kind of high. Has quite a bit of pressure and sounds loud to the ear. But one of the old school guys here was doing 149.9 with a 9518 off a Z1A in his ranger, dropped in a BTL and is doing like 148 @ 31 hz but it honestly sounds and feels louder than that 154 which was a blazer with 8 15" T1's off 2 RF 4k's. After a certain point the pressure and wind factor goes up, but I've yet to hear something that sounds significantly louder than anything else, more of a feeling.

I went from a 95 Saturn driving about 30 miles each way to school 4 days a week, and delivering pizza 4 days a week so putting about 500 miles a week. Bought an 08 Envoy Denali literally so I could have a car big enough to fit the sound system I had planned. Now I'm using the Envoy for school and the Saturn for work. As long as you can afford more for gas, I say go for it. I was getting about 25-30 mpg on my saturn between the half city half freeway driving, now I'm getting about 12.6 in my Envoy for school and 20 in my saturn all city. Went from spending around $60 a week in gas to maybe $80 a week, but I only have class 2 days a week this semester.