Autruche

That's not quite how you calculate cone area. You need to measure the sub from middle of surround to middle of surround for the diameter. But, yes an 18 has more cone than 2 12s. It really comes down to motor force vs cone area. One more thing to consider is that you may need as much as 10 cubes net for the 4 12s, but you may need as much as 13 cubes net for the 18s. Honestly, I like this idea because you could try to get D1.4 ohm coils and you could wire the subs to either .93 ohms, or 2.1 ohms, meaning you are not limited on the amps you can run.

It sounds amazing. I can play from 50Hz down to 25Hz rather flat, and it plays down to 21Hz. Rear port is 33 square inches, front port is 144 square inches. I did a lot of research before I tried to make mine. I don't want to clutter up this thread, so PM me if you want to know more.

Hmm... Let's see what I've got. My 6th order that I'm running now: 1 15, 3 cubes rear @ 25Hz, 4 cubes front @ 65Hz My previous box: 1 15, 4.2 cubes @ 28Hz I need to learn how to carpet boxes, lol.

Probably have the best luck going bandpass if you are having a tough time getting to the higher 'more musical' notes. A 4th order would be a fairly easy way to get what you are looking for, though I do personally love my 6th order, as I get a near perfectly flat response from about 25 up to 50. What sub(s) are we talking about though?

I completely agree. I check out every song in WMP scope before I play it in my car. I also check the amplitude of it's bass in Audacity to ensure that it doesn't exceed the level I have my system tuned for. That doesn't show anything. The 'show clipping' feature in Audacity only shows when the track exceeds 0dB, it doesn't tell you if it's bass or not. It could be 32Hz, or it could be 18000Hz. The only real way you can tell is if you 'watch' the track and visibly inspect it for clipping. This can be accomplished by using the scope visualization in WMP, or by playing it in audacity when zoomed into the track's waveform, with the show clipping feature turned off so you can actually see it.

I have to agree with miniSPLlancer, the Crescendo BC2000 would probably be the closest you'd get to 1500 @ 2 ohms for a good quality amp at that price. If you would be interested in getting your amp repaired you can get a quote from the guys at DB-R http://db-r.com/

So are you looking for 1500 @ 2 ohms or 1500 @ 1 ohm?

Honestly, I'd stay away from Hifonics. I had a pretty bad experience with my Hifonics a few days ago. What ohm load would you need this power at?

Granted I do not run the same head unit, but I had an issue with my USB drive taking forever to load on my Clarion head unit. I copied the data off of my flash drive and formatted it from an NTFS file system to a FAT32 system and now it works pretty quick. Perhaps you could try it with different file systems on it?

Bandpass > Ported > Sealed Do you have enough room for a proper ported box for 2 15s though?

Usually at least half the port width away from the rear wall seemed fine for any setup I did. I personally like to keep it the whole width of the port away from the rear wall though. Just keep moving it around until it seems the best, then fasten it down to that spot so it won't move.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/science/science-news/8901001/Speed-of-light-broken-again-as-scientists-test-neutrino-result.html Interesting, but the rule does still apply to radio waves.

I'll contribute my nerdiness to this topic. Sound waves are vibrations, and (as previously explained) sound needs a medium to travel through. Audible sound waves cannot exist in the vacuum of space, but they are still there in other forms. Since sound waves are a vibration of the object, there are many different ways to tell in a vacuum. Gravitational waves and 'red shift' of radio waves are the biggest ones used to detect 'sound' coming from large objects in space. Believe it or not, black holes actually do radiate energy, they do not suck up everything. This radiation comes from their event horizon, not from the black hole itself. The speed of light can never be broken, but if the object is moving in the direction that the light is traveling, the waves get slightly more bunched up and it causes the frequency of the light to rise. The opposite is also true, as it moves away the frequency becomes lower. This doesn't only happen to visible light, but to any other forms of light including radio waves, X-rays and micro waves, which can be detected with the Chandra X-ray Observatory. Most likely case is that they looked at the subtle 'red shifts' of the X-rays coming off of the black hole. Oh, and Sani, there is roughly 5 times as much dark matter as there is visible matter, it just doesn't interact the same as visible matter, it stays floating around like a gas, so in a way you are right and wrong about it's 'sparseness.'

I can't remember who made it but there was a neat unit that someone showed me that you hooked in-line with your RCAs and as more power would flow through the RCAs the LEDs would get brighter. You could adjust the sensitivity of it and whatnot too. Perhaps someone else would know what I'm talking about, I cannot seem to find it.

I usually make my own; Menthol pipe tobacco and menthol tubes. Costs me about $2.50 a pack that way, plus I only smoke a pack a week. When I have to go out and buy a pack, I get Camel Crush.

Good investment. One word of advice; only cut about a quarter of an inch deep in a clockwise motion on each pass, your bit will last you longer. At least it did for me. Oh, and if the bolt holes on the jig don't line up for your router, put the router on the jig with the bit through the hole and trace the shape of the base onto the jig. Pull the stock bottom plate off the router, line it up, and mark out the mounting holes. Drill them out and counter-sink the holes on the bottom side of the jig so the screws heads don't stick out. and go nice and slow with drilling the holes out and counter sink them just enough so the screw heads don't stick out and no more than that. Works best with a drill press. That's what I did and it works perfectly.

NVM ninja'd. Lol, funny though, it happened exactly as I thought it happened. Man, nothing wrong with having a bit of fun in the snow, just stick to either parking lots or places you know.

I'm going to be a little upset if it's just a 16" long metal bar.

I love the shit out of my MT 15. LOL at you guys saying it's not a fair trade. I'd seriously go for it, pretty damn good deal. As for the hole, a little patch with some CA glue, or maybe even regular old super glue, will do fine.