audiofanaticz

Im not sure how many people semi followed the NFS games, I do here and there if theres no other decent game out. But this one is a JOKE Im feeling slightly angered watching TotalBiscuits semi-review of the game, and I didnt even buy it. Yet people still like to complain about small BF4 issues, be glad thats not no where near as bad as this game.

damn I didnt think that cheap, but I guess their age and series. why cant ufo btl motors be that cheap ughhhhh!!

Alright, sounds good. Honestly motors and baskets are not worth much blown, your maybe talking about a $200ish including shipping used, but if you go ahead and spend the money to recone them first and then tried selling them with "fresh recones that never been mounted in a box or seen power" you will be able to get a tad bit more for them, of coarse condition of the motor will matter a little bit too like scratches and what not. I moved your thread to the DC section since it be more help to you, but it seems like CJ also replied, and if your talking with Rusty you should be on the right path already

There is no such thing. Unless you have a older M1 style level 4, and then if I remember correct they only came in dual 2 and dual 4 ohm models. So if you wanted a dual 1 ohm model you got it with the level 5 coil, with only difference being the impedance difference and a slight difference in winding height (but its been a long while since I messed with the old DC stuff). The newer M2 line of motors are slightly different. A level 4 and level 4 XL woofer are 3 inch coil woofers. A level 5 is a 3.5 inch coil woofer. Which makes it impossible to put a level 5 coil in a level 4 or XL woofer, or for that matter put a level 4 or XL coil in a level 5 woofer. If your in need of a recone goto CJ18's website, they will take great care of you http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/index.php?cPath=31_32

Your best bet would of been email, and they are all at SEMA this past week/weekend

Any battery manufacture will have issues, no one company is perfect. I dont know how many swollen kinetiks ive seen. And its never installer error, its always the companies who makes the products fault. From what I can tell, where it is cracked is below the rope handle which is a high stress area for the plastic to support a 46lb battery (possibly why XS went away with this style handle on the other batteriers). But then again I never moved them around by a handle anyways (no matter what style handle), unless your just asking to potentially have a battery drop on your feet

They are a strong board no matter which name tag is on the heat sink. But it did sound like the amp kicked protect almost instantly on the amp dyno if you listen closely during the first burst, the click is at 2:53 in the video. Also the amp dyno stopped running the test after the click sound, the AD-1 will usually do a around 10 bursts, and watching the video it only does 2 bursts, the first burst is when the number was giving for said 8641 watts, then the second burst the AD-1 noticed there was no power being made and stopped testing.

Is this thread about amp racks, or battery problems?

very cool of you Sir Meade!

Best option would be getting rid of factory headunit. If thats not an option, then getting a nicer LOC, something like an audio control unit, or maybe cache but these units run $99.00-150ish. But honestly Ive never tested anything that nice, but would assume they are not crap because they actually got circuitry to them like the HLC-1, unlike the cheap LOCs This guy for $40 maybe a winner it claims 0.01% THD which is why Id suggest it as a possible winner, you dont see LOCs advertising that http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html Otherwise something like these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43567_AudioControl-LC2i.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33578_Cache-COE8.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6359_AudioControl-LC6i-Gray-LC6.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21949_Kicker-ZX10SUM8-10ZXSUM8.html

If you got another system that works, all you got to do is just unplug an rca from the amps input, plug it into the dd-1, play corresponding 40 or 1000hz 0db track and turn up volume on headunit. Super quick, no need to wire up an additional amp, this way you dont have to disconnect any speaker wires, or turning of gains or crossover settings. If it tests fine and the DD-1 looks like normal then your issue is the LOC. The next best thing you can do is test the speaker wires that go into the LOC with the LOC disconnected, but at any rate you will only find headunit clipping volume, but still will be guessing tuning the amp, unless the amp has a high level input and you can bypass said LOC all together. So far I tested a few Schocse LOCs (2 and 4 channel models with the blue colored covers), a schocse 2 channel with clear cover, a few off brand old LOCs, Metra 2channel loc, and a metra/axxess branded 4 channel LOC, a cheaper PAC, and a hiltron 2 channel. All of them showed distortion present before even turning volume up or only turning the volume up slightly. Low voltage for the dd-1 is 5.6volts dc, chances are if the low battery light is not lit up on the DD-1 your battery is fine. I even have a battery that is around 7.9volts in my IMSG and it says battery good when turned on. and it wont tell me to replace it until something like 6.5-7.2volts iirc These devices dont use that much power, and batteries last a while. So Im sure your battery is not the issue

Every LOC I ever tested has been bad or should we say shown distortion and extremely dirty except the prototype HLC-1, so testing it on an amplifier that gets its signal from a LOC is going to show you distortion even before it even picks up a signal. Test the dd-1 on a headunit or amp without a LOC on a system you previously tuned and know it was tuned good, or for that matter, plug a RCA cord into to the DD-1 from any output source just to make sure its not the DD-1. If your sure the DD-1 is the issue after bench testing it on another item you will need to contact Tony to get it repaired. [email protected] PS: How is a 9volt battery that reads 8.4 volts low?? that is well within the operating voltages for a 9volt battery. lol

If that box pops up that says: "1 new replies added. Show me" and your going to continue to post with out clicking "show me", then just hit the post button 1 time (not 2 which gives you your double post). Even though the page didnt refresh and you didnt see your post that you just posted, your post did actually post, so at that point refresh your page by using "ctrl r" or clicking the refresh icon on your browser.

I know what the bug is for your post not posting/page not refreshing after you have posted. It only happens when your replying to a thread and you get that little popup box on the top of the screen that says "1 new replies added. Show me" If that dont pop up your post will be posted as normal, and refresh the page automatically showing your post. If that box pops up your post will be posted, but you will manually have to refresh your page to see your post.

For those stating that the amps will protect at .2ohms nominal, they will not! That is if its anything like a sundown saz-4500. My pair of 4500s where at 2011 iirc dbdrag finals wired at .18 burping 157s in a crx putting up 157+db. I dont remember the actual load after rise but they played, and played on a single nsb,90 battery at 8.7volts. Granted the minute you clipped the amps by going 1 click too far on the volume they did protect however, and this was a pure burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrp setup. but they did play. LOL Also want to add that they where always wired at .35 in my truck daily, and same thing with my buddies amps in his charger as well. impedance rise is still a biotch no matter what you wire at. lol

Ive had the issue too for i dont know how long, months for sure, but its only intermittent, and some what rare

Thread cleaned up. Keep it clean! Brian

big stereo systems must be ricerish too since they add no performance gain to the vehicle, and slow it down. Fuck, steve you better take off your 2 front rims and put some steelies on there to fit that ricerish theme too

Dampener of any quality brand will only reduce road noise so much, sure it will be quieter but not by much. If your seriously wanting to dampen your vehicle and reduce road noise things like closed cell foam help drastically inside your doors after you have dampened them. Second Skin makes a product called Luxury Liner which is a mass loaded foam that you apply over the deadener. You can use it by itself too, but your results wouldn't be as great, since the deadener adds mass to the thinner sheet metal which changes the panels resonate frequency and eliminates some panel flex. For how much you need, easies way is grab a tape measure and start measuring. I usually always round up to the next foot (better to have too much then not enough). Then go out to your vehicle and measure everything you want to deaden. For your doors, measure the width and height of the exterior sheet metal, multiply those 2 numbers together for your square footage of what it would take to do 1 layer on the door. Then take your square foot number and multiply that by 2 again since you will be doing driver and passenger side doors. Do the same thing for rear doors if your vehicle is a 4 door. Same thing for your roof, get a ruff estimate on its length and width, multiply the 2 numbers for your square footage. and for every layer you want to do just keep multiplying the square feet by number of layers. Typically your floor will be about 3-5 feet longer then your roof, depending on how far up the fire wall you go, and about .5 to 1 foot wider. But Also take into consideration that any humps or different elevations will increase the amount of deadener you need.

bahahahahaha thats effen hilarious!!

So is butyl rope something your going to carry, because I need some It seems the majority of vehicle manufactures use butyl to seal the headlight lenses to the housing, and of coarse once you heat the lens up in the oven to pull the covers off to do retro fits for HIDs you need something new to seal it with. So anything ever going to happen with this?

If its much newer then the rest and loose, it could have a softer suspension, maybe 1 less spider used. It could also have to do with how it is loading inside the wall (the way it is built). What id try if its wired properly and nothing is torn on the spider is to remove that sub and change its location in the wall, probably the bottom right. Once you swap those subs see if the issue still happens with the sub in the new location, or if the new sub in the top left is now also doing it. If the problem follows the sub chances are its the sub, if the problem stays in its top left position its probably something do to how the woofer is loading due to back pressure.

I agree with pc being the master race, but n8 does have a point that I never looked at before.. I just spent a little over $1,100 upgrading my pc (mobo, memory, cpu, ssd), and I still need to upgrade graphics card and psu yet, the graphics card is a easy $650-700 if I just buy 1, but would love SLI so double that price... Which also means I need a new power supply, so theres another 300$.... Thats more then a couple of new consoles from both parties right there, and again in a few years as technology advances, as well as games Id prob need to buy new video card again. Granted you can do a lot more with a pc then a console which would offset the cost a little bit, but still.

I think Kasey is Kasey Shutz aka i shutz. He is still around. I actually just friended him on FB. He was making some nice videos. I guess he has just been inactive due to school/ work etc.... Kasey has ripped some people off on here for product he sold, got paid for and never sent iirc. I think the blitz guy got his money refunded after months, but this other guy that started a thread got screwed... I even messaged kasey on his facebook with nothing back.. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/151534-thehoe92-bad-deal-almost-1-year/?hl=%2Bthehoe92#entry2392602

I dont know.. I got rolls and rolls of 4704 strand 1/0 CCA for my rebuild. It came down to running 6total runs (3pos/3neg) of OFC 4704 strand rated at 300amps @ 20feet -or- 16 runs total (8pos/8neg) of CCA 4704 strand rated at 250amps @ 20feet. So even if we give the OFC wire the benifit of the doubt, and say its able to transfer 900amps of current, the CCA wire is still walking all over it. I even rated the CCA wire at 200amps per run instead of its intended 250amps, giving me 1600amps of current load it can handle, again this is severely under rated. The CCA was bought due to the fact that for the SAME PRICE as the OFC I could have so much more head room, and when I have over 1100+amps of current generated from my alternator setup, OFC just woulldnt cut it for the same price. Keep in mind same wire manufacture, and runs will not exceed 17 feet so power handling of the wire should be slightly higher then its 20foot rating. My main power source is my triple alt kit with DC Power 390XPs Also noted that the rear battery bank will be massively SMALL (2 d3100s to start in the back, and 2 d3400s under the hood). The amps are 3 Sundown 4500s wired at .35ohms each, and when I clamped current usage in the past the amps where pulling a continuous 612amps each when full tilt, with even poorer electrical (mis matched wire brand, size, lengths, and running 1 stock alt on my bracket) then what im doing in the rebuild. Of coarse if you compare one 20foot piece of CCA to OFC, the ofc will win, but when you can get the CCA for 1/3 the cost of OFC and run 2 runs of it, it shall out perform. Sadly I hope this dont turn out to a apples to oranges type comparison, which I feel it will, like the capacitor tests. Lets face it, all capacitors are not the same you guys tested a RF hybrid cap vs a legit 1fared monster it looked like, but you didnt test a cheaper cap like power acoustik, or schoche. I bet those would of tested much worse! Nor did you test the caps against a small rear batter like a small xs power, or kinetik, that would of been priced the same as a legit 1 fared capacitor. After all you see people using a lot of maxwell capacitor banks that are home made because the properties of those caps making them what they are. Again all caps are not the same but you didnt test that. So yea. We all already know a piece of ofc will out do a piece of cca, the ratings are pretty bold that even a novice user can understand that, but if you wanted to be fair with the testing you would test multiple runs of that cca which will cost much less then your ofc, and personally I wouldnt even worry about that 10% hybrid type wire, but thats just me. If you want people to believe and follow you, you have to do all these kind of tests. You just cant say this is better then that and heres the test, when we already knew the outcomes.