audiofanaticz

Who cares if its not released til later mid 2014. BF4 drops soon enough and will be just as great to play, as well as many other new games releasing soon.

If you want it cleaner then turn your gain down more, which will be stressing the amplifier less to make power, but also reduce the power it is making. You could also try building different enclosures something that maybe more efficient, and louder without sacrificing sound quality but would be a tricky challenge You could also buy a nicer amp then what you are using on your sub stage if thats what you want cleaner. I mean your running Helix on your mids & highs, but then are tossing in a cheap kenwood on your subs if you get what Im saying and for the guy with the sa-18 comment. here you go. there where only about 8-10 of them made iirc, heres 4 of them that I built (normally Sundown/OA builds them up).

using the said tones on the current disk tunes to .1%thd. Since each of the 3 tracks are a lower decibal level so when you play a normal track that is not -5 or -10 db it is louder. If you want to, you can use the dd-1 with the woofers hooked up at said impedance, and it will work just fine. But be aware your woofers will start to get loud as you turn the gain up so you may want to do it out of town in a parking lot. Also if you tune the gain with your woofers connected and use the -5db track, it will be closer to -3, and you will have slighhtly less overlap in power as you woulld with the woofers disconnected. I just tuned 4 Sundown SA-18s with an Atomic 7000.1 wired at .5 with the woofers connected, deffinitly somethhing you dont want to do in your driveway.

1 watt PEAK

dibs on the sixes yeeeeeeeeeeea

if your second guessing it like you are, simply get the zv4s. i sadly havent gotten to play with them yet, but I do know they are simply beasts from others using them, and a single zv4 taking a lot of power in the one sundown employees hatchback. Keep in mind that the X series have a slightly lower power handling, but as always they will take way more power then they are rated for following sundowns typical tradition it seems. If it was me tho, zv4 for sure

JOO! GFY!! i need another!! also.. just becasue thats all thats blown, doesnt mean there isnt other componets that arnt damaged/blown/stressed. the amp needs a good once over of all the componets I still need #1 lol But the user asked the parts and what they where, I simply told him what they where. Hence why I asked for other pictures of the components in the power supply. Just like a woofer, you can easily trace down on why the amp blown, and possibly why the protect circuit didnt work. Theres 2 ways to fix amps, the right way and a half ass repair that means your stuck with different amp mosfets from different date codes only for your amp to work again untill its stressed and the old mosfets that where fine blow. If the power supply blows for whatevver reason and you have only a couple blown mosfets then if your smart you replace every mosfet, gate resistor on both rails of the power supply as well as any other damaged piece.

Its the mosfets and gate resistors blown on the power supply side of things.. Odd that this happened, I know people running this at 1ohm a channel on both 12 and 16volt electrical setups with out issues. these amps are beasts. Any more close up pictures of the end of the board in the between the big black 4 capacitors and the bunch of little small brown capacitors

^^^will pay $1.00 more then his offer!

cut the ends off the plastic cover.. Did this with the cheap generic fuse covers that everyone puts their names on, and 4/0 fits fine.

i needed to bust a nut today, thanks jacob! never thought I be thanking a guy for that..... LOL

You guys do know that these Excution Audio alts are made by Mechman right (or so rumor has it).

Who told you this? Coleman the owner says its a 1 year warranty on the Eecution Audio Alternators.

Sounds like your custom built box is built very poorly and most likely not anywhere built around the specs that the woofer would like and is causing you lots of issues.. A single 12 box, that is custom built, should not flex at all, even if there is no bracing it shouldn't be flexing unless assembly is just that poor. So yea, Id have a new one built, and stay far away from whoever built your current custom box, they are no good!

YESSS! Mine was somewhat calibrated, kind of surprised it was still that accurate since the truck sat for almost 2 years that i pulled it from. But as always I used a reliable multimeter to set it. it was the one under the silver meter, and to the right of the indaglo. the stinger logo didnt work, and the middle digit was messed up

Nice, even enough room for a couple clamp meters yet, and a term lab

Want to fuse it correctly? Then DO NOT fuse an amp that requires 250 amps of fusing at 500 amps!!! Since your using dual input adapters fuse each wire. However since the max amperage draw of the amp is rated at 250 amps, you only need to put a 125amp fuse on each wire holder. Fuses are for protecting the power wire, If an amp is going to blow, its going to blow with or without a fuse. No since you are fusing per the wire requirements, and the amps requirements are 250amps, fusing it at 500 amps is just plan stupid. Why you maybe wondering? Well like i said, the fuse protects the wiring, nothing more. So if an issue was to arise and a short in your power wire happended, that short is going to be happening for a much longer time, since it takes longer to blow a 250amp fuse versus 150 amp fuse. That amount in delay between the fuse sizes can save your car from having a fire, to possibly your rubber protective casing on your wire melting and making that piece of wire garbage. I also want to mention that all fuses are not created equal, even so 2 fuses from the same manufacture are not equal. You may end up having 1 250amp fuse that will blow after it has had 275amps of current feed threw it for 10seconds. While your other 250amp fuse may not blow until after it has had 305amps of current feed threw it for 40 seconds. Basically meaning, if your fuse is 250 amps, and you put 251 amps threw it for 20 hours, that fuse WILL NOT blow. They are a slow blow type of fuse, so over fusing is VERY DANGERIOUS. For example from BCAE1.com A 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. For more information: http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm Edit, as for it being any different then strapping 2 2500 amps, yes its different. Those 2 2500 amps would need 500amps of fusing to safely satisfy their current draw. A single 2500 amp would stilll ony need 250 amps of fusing to safely satisfy its current draw. You could have adapters made for Four 1/0 power wires, but then you would only want to put a 62.5amp fuse on each power wire. Also many people think that if they use a 500amp fusing, the amp will get more power because its double the size of fusing, but that is not true and 500 amps of fusing will not give the amp more power then a single 250 amp fuse. Same can go for dual inputs. Unless your strictly going for numbers, and your car is setup to run off 1 battery with the car off during its burps, that amp is not going to gain much if any performance having a 2nd power wire stuck inside the terminal. But they look cool and that right there is a selling point to me and many others The average 1/0 can carry 300amps of current for 17-20 feet saftly, you cut that wire in half, it can now handle almost double the rating, and the shorter the wire is that rating just keeps getting larger and larger.

If it was shipped to the wrong address Im sure SE will get you your gear that you bought, they aint like some of these other online resellers Think it was just thru the 4th but im not sure.

Pretty sure it was some special that was running for the 4th of july while supplies lasted, but not 100% sure

I placed a order for a XS Power D3400. My order came today, but along with my battery came a second box addressed to me from SonicElectronix So after checking their site I noticed its a FREE GIFT if you spend $200.00 or more And ironically its a free gift that may get some use unlike other free gifts that you normally get. Why I say it may actually get some use is because my last grill I had was this Weber that the legs started to rust off, so it became a fire pit in my back yard and never bought a new one. And ironically its a free little grill which would also be good for tailgating Awesome SonicElectronix

he gone now

x2 but apparently, if you want sex toys, this is the thhread to come to.. LOL

^^^ I is the anonymous user Nice amps, that saz 5000 is making me want to get rid of my 4500s, or maybe others willl be wanting to do the same so I can scoop more 4500s up.. hmmm Edit, I still like how Jacob/Sundown is still not using spring clips and no vertical mosfets too That is what made me choose Sundown over other similar amps many years ago.

still love the sound of the relays going click click click

Some of the higher end CTEK chargers claim to fix the issue with the build up. Id maybe see if you can find someone with a CTEK charger that will recondition batteries. A friend use to have a model 7002 iirc, and I used it countless times to keep bringing back my 1st generation d3100 that was attempted to be stolen and dropped in my driveway and leaks. I brought this battery back a hand full of times when my normal charger wouldnt even charge it (even if I hooked up a second battery to trick the charger). I cant even count how many Optima redtops, and yellow tops it brought back and a few bad kinetiks too. Sad part is, these smart chargers are some what expensive, so its not worth it to buy one for one time unless you will get your use out of it, but if you ask around maybe you can find someone with one. Personally, they are one of the nicest chargers I have used, only sad part is for larger batteries and battery banks they take a while due to a rather low amperage output. http://smartercharger.com/battery-chargers/