audiofanaticz

www.ficaraudio.com is the only place to buy their products. They do not have any autorized dealers and do not cell to retail audio shops. Cooling is a vented pole piece and magnet assembly. When the sub moves forwards and backwords it causes air to be sucked into the motor/magnet and help cool the voice coil. the p chamfer is included with the cooling package also. HiXmCoil is pretty much a longer voice coil for the most part I believe. It should be added if you go with the tripple stacked magnet since the third magnet adds extra depth and more travel to the speaker. the 3rd magnet is a extra magnet. They come with double stacked magnets, but if you get the 3rd magnet you will have 3 rings instead of two. Daily and spl option is just wat it means, are you going to be using the subwoofer for db drags where you just play 1 frequancy, or will you be using it for daily driving. With the spl option there is a tighter tolerence between the magnet and the voice coil. IE a tighter gap that the coil moves in and out of. With the tighter gap the speaker will be more accurate at higher excursions. But is not recomended for daily driving because you will be playing different freq which will be causing the coil movement to be different everytime the sub hits.

The stock amp should be on the passenger side in the rear quarter panel. Most likely it is 1 amp for all 4 interior speakers and subwoofer. If you are still planning on using the stock subwoofer, Id suggust figuring out which two wires are for your subwoofer, and unplug/disconnect the wires for the interior speakers. You can get the wiring harness and bypass harness at most places, I even think bestbuy carries them. Umm crutchfield has them as well as sonicelectronix.com http://sonicelectronix.com/item_5946_PAC+ADD-FRD1.html I think that would be the needed one but Im not sure. Another thing you could try to narrow down which speaker it may be causing the interference is try fading your sound to all speaker at a time. front left, front right, rear left, rear right. maybe you will hear a difference in sound and may give you an idea of were to start. But depending on how you went about by passing the stock amp maybe why you are having your problem now. You are not really bypassing the amp unless: A) you run complete new wires from your headunit to each speaker. or you run the speaker wire from your head unit to the wires comming from the output of the stock amp, of coarse disconnect the wires from your stock amp first. Then you would be using the stock wiring that runs from the amp to each speaker. How the stereos are setup with the stock amp is the speaker wires come from the headunit, which goto the amp (usally in the back of the vehicle or in the trunk), from the amp all the way in the back they decided to go and waste even more wire and run the wires back up to the front for the front speakers. So more then likely splicing into the wiring under the dash at the kick panel you are not bypassing the amp unless you have the return wires from the amp, and even if you do have the wires for the front speakers most likely you dont have the rear wires. Your best bet, and easiest is to run new wires from the head unit to each induvisual speaker, this way if you ever go back to stock, all you got to do is hook the stock deck up and plug in the harness for the amp into the deck.

In that case, Im sure that there is a stock amp for the jbl sound system, and with you splicing and bypassing the stock amp you may of ended up not getting all the wires bypassed correctly, and some signal is still running through the stock amp, and when you re wired your door speakers something is causing the stock amp to short out and or cause the interference. My friend had this problem in his bronco2 back in the day. Edit: im also guessing since you attempted to bypass the stock amp, you didnt buy a wiring harness. With the harness you could of had everything working properly without snipping and rigging. Id also try to find the stock amp and unplug all the power wires and speaker wire inputs and outputs from it. Or cut it, since your already are chopping wires Totally disconnecting the stock amp may fix it right away.

Its really sounding like a loose connection someplace. Are you powering your interior speakers off an amp or off the deck? What kind of vehicle do you have? Its sounding like some wire is crossed someplace and causing a crap load of interferance if you can still hear song 1 when your headunit is muted.

is the aux input being used for anything? if not, just disable it on your headunit if possible. What exactly do you hear when everything is muted? Static? Music? Engine wine?

I also use the gutter repair tape that wigglez is talking about. Its made by Protecto wrap, and comes in either a shinny aluminum finish, or a white finish. Its about 2mm thinner then dynamat xtreme, or stinger road kill expert. I have both stinger, dynamat, and the protecto wrap in my car. The protecto wrap adheres much better, It stays stuck in the cold and in the heat. It does not stink in heat, and is way cheaper!. I only pay $12.84 per roll which is 12.5 square feet. A little comparison to dynamat extreme, protecto wrap, and stinger roadkill expert. Here is some of the white protecto wrap because I ran out and this was all menards had and home depot was out.

You should check all your grounds (cd player, and amp grounds). Move any signal cables away from power wires. And as for the polarity, it is not a reason for the static. (unless your vehicle uses a body ground for the negitive speaker wire).

You deff did the right thing R. When your in a place that you not only frequant but have friends that own it, your untouchable! I would have and done the same before more then a few times.

Dont know much about either except that you will get a better ride from bags vs dros.

--> QUOTE(Eric B @ Dec 4 2007, 10:58 AM) 204960[/snapback] When I made that pic bigger I didnt see 6000 watt rms???????? 1500 watts rms @ 1 ohm by 4 channels = 6000 rms. online car stereo is saying its a 4 channel amp

I dunno, just dont look like a winner to me. RF seems to hit or miss on their heatsinks for me I guess. Looks too cheap/plain looking for my tastes. THIS IS MY OWN OPINION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hmm typo??? 6000 watt rms amp for under 600 bucks is a steal!!!

Audio signal cables crossing over/near or ran next too power wires are never good. Even tho most signal cables are some what insulated there still maybe some interference such as engine whine. In my opinion, I dont think a 14 or 12 gauge power wire to your cigarette lighter, but it may be the problem. But Id try to re route the wires just in case. Normally you would get huge interference if you ran your RCA cords along your huge power wire for an amp. As for the polarity of your speakers being backwords and then changing them to be correct, this should be the cause of any static. The only thing the polarity is changing is the "throw" of the speaker (whether it moves in or out when the bass hits). Ive heard of many people swapping the polarity of tweeters to change the time alignment of them for a more fulfilling sound, and with that being done not adding any static. Another thing I would check is to make sure you didnt loosen up a ground wire on your cd player/amps. Make sure that your RCA cords (if your using a amp) are all tight. Not that when you moved your ipod and tugged a little on the wire it moved or loosened something up.

LoL I love it, everybody still reps the old skool cool water! Ive been wearing that for ever too. I am so use to it that I end up bathing in it. I just cant get enough of it, I can easily go through a big bottle in a week, I spray my pillows with it so I smell it all night long!! haha But I dont care for the other cool waters that they made, just the basic for meh. cool water Aqua di Gio dunhil excentric hugo boss nautica (the stuff thats in a bottle that looks like a sail). Ck Theres a few others that are my favorites too but I cant think of them all now. One day I just want to go out and buy all my favs at once, but I just cant see spending that much cash on liquid that dont give you a buzz

eww.. that thing is ugly imo... Thought you where tlaking about the other ones. maxxlink ftw... only way your going to be able to do it.

Im pretty sure the bass knob comes with the amp, so for amps, 4 knobs. I think all rf power series amps are master/slave-able. If your linking the amps, master/slave, you only need to use 1 knob on your master amp and it will control the other 3.

Mr. Monkey is also a member here too Nice window flex steve!!! I wanna be able to do that.. Im gonna go find some thing flimsy windows

Good video, skating came along way. Now its turning into more breakdancing on skates type of deal. These guys are from Team Breaksk8, I know a few of them personally, and smoked with some of the IL guys http://www.basketballshows.com/2007video.html

I think its legal but Im not up to par on iasca nor do i care to be, but I see it no different then folding down your rear seats if applical.

Thats my opinion too.. I dont see a small unit rendering as much and as fast as my pc does. I dont see these units having huge graphic drivers and high processor speeds, or the 2ms refresh rate (maybe they dont need them, but I think they would need some sort). My gaming consoles consist of a regular nintendo, and two n64s (one of which dont work) but I can still play my 007 and mario cart so Im all good Old skool ftw!

So this is something to be used IN the car then I take it? How many cameras are being sold with it? Just looking for a tad more info

Which is kind of pointless tho if you think about it. Aluminum wired coils to handle the heat up to 428°F. BUT PEAK wattage 300watts.. :lol: Im also sure they went with aluminum wire because it is cheaper then copper wire. It only costs my work to $6 to scrap out an aluminum Harley Davidson transmission that weighs 18 pounds.

nah man you just need two z1a's :) 2500 watts rms per 9515 aint enough My 12 seemed like it was wanting way more then the 3000rms I was giving it

I was kinda interested in those pioneers a while back, but never moved forward on getting one. 1 sub is enough to make your stereo loud, but your going to need a nice powerful amp and a nicely designed box to go along with the sub.

Yea I was thinking the same thing CAVI FTW But some people on these forums would say that is inconsiderate to do. I cruised by a few houses in my town that usally have a nice xmas light set up, but we are still lacking that technology around my parts

personally instead of the sli dulux id try to find a different board. Dont get me wrong that board is great, and I only use asus and dfi boards, but that board is old, but still good. Id at least try to step up to a mobo with ddr2 memory. Unless you currently got a socket 939 processor and dont plan on upgrading your processor. But otherwise, yes that ram, and video cards will work with that mother board and give you a nice gaming rig