audiofanaticz

Major coil rub do to that. Its was so easy due to the high center of gravity to say, or the former attaching to the cone so high up maybe better. That Just lightly touching the outter side of my cone by the surround would make my coil rub. Ive tried numerous boxes, to reduce back pressure, different port sizing. Even paid PWK for designs to help reduce this problem but nothing has worked for me. Versus a the former that is attached by spider, transfers all the energy completely different. Doing the same test with my paper cones I notice no rubbing mostly because the energy is absorbed by the cone and transferred down to one point where my whole cone assembly moves, and not just one side like before. It was so bad I had my subs reconed 4 different times that DD finally said to send them in and reconed at their cost with paper cones.

I giggled a little. Ok a lot! I agree, I ran composite cones now for many years.. And thru that time Ive been trashing coils left and right.. Never again will I run a composite cone I dont think, or any cone that has a lesser pitch of a concave cone, or even a flat cone. The center of gravity on the cone is raised so much and is horrid for daily abuse! Im very interested to see how these DC turn out just like the T3 tsns..... Or maybe DD just dont know how to build woofers.

LOL This guy is dogging me on youtube... Telling me I need batcaps because I have voltage drop, and how a batcap is better then D3100s.... All bragging about "HOW HE OWNS A AUDIO SHOP", but yet he has no idea on what headunit to buy? How the hell can you own a audio shop and not know which headunit will fit your needs... What does he do when a customer comes into "his" shop???

Where are your bassboost and gain settings at on your amp? Do you only have the 1 XS 5100 battery, or do you have a second factory battery in your vehicle? Your factory battery maybe junk and is causing lots of strain on your electrical if it is. You said you have the big 3 done in 1/0 wiring, but what is the size of your power wire going to the back?

Imo, the first battery to replace should be your stock battery. It looks like you have a blazer? So I think the powermaster d3400 should be a perfect fit under the hood in your stock location. Its not the best idea to mix and match wetcell (factory) batteries with agm batteries, since they both require different charging voltages. Overtime your stock wetcell battery will become dependent on the nicer battery, which will not only weaken the wetcell, but could weaken the new agm battery and result in a poorer or lower resting voltage. A stock alternator can usually charge 2 batteries decently if you dont drain your batteries down low, then rely on the alternator to charge them back up fully. An alternator is only a component to keep your batteries voltage maintained, not to fully charge them from the dead. With that being said. Id worry about replacing the battery under the hood first. Spend a few bucks on some 1/0 gauge wire and do the big 3 upgrade under the hood (instruction on that are stickied under the wiring/electrical forum). The big 3 really dont use much wire and should be cheap to do!! After you got that all said and then, you can kinda compair your voltage needs from past to present and see if you will need more batteries or a bigger alt. IMO your next step after a good front battery and big 3 would be a high output alternator. DC Power makes some wicked sick alts that are being proven over and over time and time again!!

A d3400 battery would be another good choice. it should fit under your hood in stock location too. Otherwise there is a group buy going on for the powermaster d3100s, you could get a great deal on that. Id say just go for the biggest battery right from the start since it really dont cost too much more then a smaller battery. D3100s ftw! You can order Powermaster direct http://4xspower.com/ 1-888-4xs-power Otherwise DC Power alts, Mechman alts, Iraggi alts all seem to sell them, as well as www.jegs.com and www.summitracing.com

I have a older Rocky Mountain RMR-C450, that was at my shop. Tried it out, needless to say I got 2 tickets with the thing on... http://rockymountainradar.com/store/13-rmr-c450 same radar detector I have. Here is a video that shows it dont work. Also check out this guys videos. He is a cop iirc, and he tested many many different detectors against radar guns with his buddies http://www.youtube.com/user/erickonphoenix His videos show many high dollar brand detectors fail! They are a complete waste of money, even the ones that say "if you get a ticket, we will pay it for you"! Its not the price of the speeding ticket that hurts, its the points on your drivers license that do, and not one company can give back your lost points for speeding. The only thing a radar detector is good for is when your driving in the city and your bumping. It will alert you of a cop ahead that is clocking radar parked someplace, and will give you time to turn your stereo down before the cop hears it and pulls you over for it. Id really save your money, and spend it on something else.

What cold?? You live in cali. Reality check! Lol

Seems to be a common problem for apple, and everyone who has tried to update their software all over the world gets the same error and apple has no fix yet. Theres more then a few threads about it on apples support forum.. http://discussions.info.apple.com/thread.j...=0&start=15

Over time, yes. but Im talking like a year + usage. Theres many people that run decent sized audio systems with no alt and just some optima battery under the hood. Alternators sometimes fail due to users discharging their batteries below half, then relying on the alternator alone to recharge the battery. An alternator is just there to more less maintain a charge, Thats why on huge systems you see a crap tons of batteries, and a few alts to keep them batteries charged fully.

Glad that all that Second Skin helped out Steve!! Must be nice to have a fully deadened vehicle . I got 1 layer of second skin on the rear 3/4ths of my roof from Ants promotion, and it stopped 70 some percent of my roof flex. Id love to do my floor pan! SS is a great product!

Its free of charge to have them "test" your alternator.. but its nothing special. If the auto parts store is lucky enough to have the nicer equitment, they are only able to load the alts down to 80-90 amps.. Most likely if it was on the car when you got it, its not a high output alternator. It may have to a crap and the last owner just bought a new or reman alt or a slightly higher amperage alt that maybe 5-20 amps higher.

ugh, no! All they will do is wheel out some rinky dink cart with a tester on it that they never know how to hook up properly. and all they can do is tell you if your alt is good or bad.

A clamp meter around the positive power cable on your alternator, and a way to load your alternator down by something like a burp at full power

Ugh, Buyers beware. Maybe the buyer should of asked the seller for more pictures? Besides, there are more pictures of the sub in the sellers photobucket of the sub here http://s458.photobucket.com/albums/qq306/fis10/ The cone looks idenical to the pictures the buyer posted.

Id build your own also, can do a decent computer for about 450$ with a good video card that has HDMI out, your tv can be used as a permanent computer monitor hooked up thru one of your aux hdmi inputs on your tv.

Much props Andy!! This port tuning question comes up so much, and its always the same answer!!! ExpoSports post just gets pushed down so far no one never sees it

This right here!!! I love his program, it takes out all the guessing, makes a simple design very quick and easy. It even tells you how much port area should be used in the size box you are using.. Pretty pathetic that there are all these stupid stickys posted, but yet one of the best freeware software programs from a SMD member cant get stickyed.

A rca cord is a rca cord, nothing to really compair with them except the level of shielding.. There was some artical a while back with something about unbending metal cloths hangers and using them for rca cords or something and them having the same quality of sound vs a high dollar rca cord. The only thing I ever liked about Monster cables was their warranty that if you fray a wire, or it craps out for some reason you could exchange it over the counter at any monster dealer or something like that. But that was a long long time ago, and im sure thats changed by now. But if you want to talk about real high quality cables, Kimber Kable all the way... http://www.kimber.com/Products/PowerKords/default.aspx However your looking at cables that cost more money then most the users audio systems on this site... As for headphones, I never cared for the Sennheiser. I never liked the looks. Ive went the route with DJ headphones. Currently Im using a set of Sony MDR-V700s that I amp off my home receiver and use them for pc gaming. They have 50mm drivers (not diaphrams like most headphones) so the bass response is very great, Ive been using them for years now and they are getting pretty pounded. http://www.pssl.com/Sony-MDRV700DJ-DJRemix-Headphones I shopped around and got them for $88 or something around there. Im looking at a pair of Denon Djing headphones, they also use a real driver that is 53mm (largest out of all headphones I believe). Denon audio always made top notch home and pro audio products.. Im really thinking this will be my next set. http://www.pssl.com/Denon-DNHP1000-Professional-Headphones More headphones here. http://www.pssl.com/Headphones?pg=100 Edit, article i was talking about before compairing overpriced monster cables to wire cloth hangers... Do Coat Hangers Sound As Good Monster Cables? http://consumerist.com/2008/03/do-coat-han...ter-cables.html

sweet! 2 in 1 night! :01nocomment8so:

wow that is nuts!! Its going to be teh titanic all over again!

I vote no. Theres no real point, most these things are hardly used like the Shops forums. The only subforums that get any real hits/posts are DC Power, Sundown, FI, RF, DC, Iraggi. Theres way to many "sub-forums" the way it is, imo I think its very cluttered, and one of the major reasons for so many people posting asking about a product that has been asked about several times over and over. I dont see why it is so hard to make a post in the current amplifier forum. There are already sites that claim to have the "official manufacture forum" such as CACO that only has 40 some posts (not including the stickie). And if you browse Termpro forums about said products you will find more actually performance tests, power tests, builds then most these other forums combined. If the user is too biased to go to another forum to find out information about a product before he/she buys it I feel that it their own fault.

Sexy woofers, just sold a pair at the shop and build a box for a guys exporer, things are wangin tough on 1800wrms!!! Here is one of them. Got some sexy 4 inch carbon fiber dustcaps too!!

Not true, I have a hobby lobby by me and they do not carry it except on their site. And the CA glue available to you at hobby stores is not the same, its a thinner usually clear color CA Glue which sucks for woofers since you need a thicker more gel type.

Agreed, they where dead on!!!! rofl