RAM_Designs

Nice looking kits. I would just be doing the 3 main wires, so my cost would be substantially lower than what is advertised on his site. I feel as though most people wouldn't have much use for some of the kit, unless it's a brand ew vehicle and you were starting from scratch. Truth is that most people have gone through a couple setups and already have a lot of the hardware/terminals/connectors before they get to running enough power to really need a Big 3 kit(or at least start thinking about it). We'll see...I'm going to give it a shot, at least.

I don't know who Snafu is and definitely didn't know that he was doing the same thing. I've done some reaching and can't find his thread...does anyone have it on hand?

Yeah, hydraulic crimpers work great...couldn't pull it out if you tried(I actually hung it on a hook and it supported by 210lb ass). And heat shrink on top of that just makes it look clean.

I have been thinking about making some quality Big 3 kits, and just want to kind of take the forum's temperature about the idea. Ordering will be easy, simply give me the three lengths you need from mounting hole to mounting hole(for me, this will = terminal hole to terminal hole). Here's a rundown of the parts/process. 1) Wire being used will be the new black Audio Technix 1/0 CCA wire. 2) Terminals will be tinned copper to resist corrosion. 3) All wire/terminal connections will be crimped via a hydraulic crimper for a connection that will never wiggle loose or back out. 4) All connections will be finished with some black heat shrink tubing for a clean look. Do you guys have any interest in something like this? If so, what kind of price point would be reasonable to you?

You'll need to use those max dimensions to get enough volume for that sub.

Make the brace closer to the sub cutout, and do a vertical one as well to brace the top/bottom of the box. There are 1.25" dowels at Home Depot.

What did you use to seal the port?

If you want to use a 12" sub, make the box bigger...it's your only option.

I thought you were using two subs, my fault. Also, DO NOT USE THE TORRES BOX CALC FOR AEROPORTS, IT DOES NOT FACTOR IN PORT DISPLACEMENT. While this usually makes the tuning 2-3hz higher, it's still wrong. I brought this up to him a while ago and it looks like he never changed it. Double checking with any other round port calc will show you the difference. http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html http://www.carstereo...icles.cfm?id=31

I'd suggest subs forward and port up, or subs forward or up and port to the side.

How close does that 20" depth put the box to your seats?

Really easy to make it work in those dimensions...

Good luck being able to fit those ports in your box....they're each going to need to be over 3ft long.

Can you go wider than 20"? That'll make the port a lot easier to deal with.

I'd rather run three D4 subs to get a .67ohm nominal load so I could get more out of my amp(s).

What vehicle?

What vehicle will this be going in?

What vehicle will this be going in?

No way to know for sure unless you test it with your specific setup.

You have plenty of power, so IMO do maybe 8ft^3 per pair and drop the tuning down to 33-35hz or so.

~4.5ft^3 with a 33-35hz tuning and 60-70in^2 of port works great in most vehicles with the HDC, assuming you're using the copper coil option.

Firing both forward or back is usually the fail-proof way to do it. With the 12" XXX, do something like 2.75-3ft^3 with an upper 20's tuning.

Thanks.

This box will be going in the back of a Chevy Tracker, 7ft^3 with a 33hz tuning. Overall dimensions are 40" wide x 17" tall x 32" deep.

Depends on the response curve you're after.