6berry

did you miss my post? http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/118599-looking-for-demos-at-florida/page__view__findpost__p__1667485 it would be pretty cool if you came by and checked it out!

who would be stupid enough to do 4 10's??

i live like 20 minutes from mikey if you wanna come check out my 2 10's in a 4th order made for 4 10's haha. unless i win the lotto before then and can afford to get the other. and im like 1 minute of I95 which is probably what you would be taking so you wont have to go out of ur way for not much bump

just zoom really far in until you can see the individual waves and go across and look for any flatten tops

8 gauge is more then enough. you would be fine down to probably 14 maybe 16 gauge edit: wait i dont know if youre talking about speaker wire or amp wire. for amp wire i would go with at least 4 gauge

anyone with a scope or dd-1 in south florida?

to calculate a center port you would measure down the center of the port from the front to 1/2 into the bend and then from that point to the end of the wood.

emailed. thanks jon!

you could either do the port on the side like dcofer was saying or you could make the port horizontal with 2 common port walls and have the port at the top or bottom of the box

you could have some cancellations from that and i dont think that port would work like that since the port area is different on both ends

how much would you charge for this? this company does them but theyre really expensive

why are you going to separate the batteries with an isolator?

what are the dimensions of the C&D batteries?

you could open it up and see if anything is noticably burnt or loose

ive heard of dc's 10's having this problem. idk if they fixed this problem yet or not but maybe just order some recones. or even go level 4 recones

so if i won this could i pay the difference and upgrade to a level 3 10? i was already sub'd though

its only stable to 2 ohms before rise. rise isnt constant so at a certain frequency you might be right around your nominal impedance and fry your amp

you should do some research before you put the cap in and learn about them. but yes put one a few feet from the front batt, one a few feet from the rear battery, and you probably wont need one from the cap or battery to the amp unless its over a few feet long and wired through any body panels or near anything that could cut through the insulation

check darvex or sonic electronix for the terminals. put a fuse within 2 feet of each battery's positive terminal on each positive run of wire. get rid of that cap too. to find out how much wire you need you need to measure it out

i would rather get a b-stock for $230 than that

yeah i used to either skateboard, bike, hitchhike, or dirtbike places until i turned 18 then i finally got my license

yeah the dmv sucks but its not a good idea to drive without your license. i did it before i got my license and while my license was suspended (i had no choice). i never got pulled over but it was very very sketchy

to convert from sq cm you either need to divide the number by 2.54 twice or type "xx sq cm into sq in" into google

i got one of my subs today even though they werent supposed to be here until tomorrow!!

both of those are pretty much 100% spl subs. i would go with the DC's though