Joe X

You need a perfect electrical system to run full bridge amplifiers ( like taramps ) or else those amps will give problems or fail. People buy these amps like crazy because of the price but then, the cost of running a near perfect electrical system is so high that may cost many times what you save on these amps in many cases. Research the many not so expensive half bridge options out there, These days almost all amps go through THD tests including the SMD AD-1 which show tested amps doing at least rated power within 1% THD, those test have been performed on the JP amplifiers as well as others. So any amps passing the tests should play reasonably clean and you should not be able to find a night and day difference between them. Sure enough audition before buying whenever possible. Some Taramps units have shown show some barely noticeable background noise when the amp is not playing, many people can't notice it and these amps have been a success either way.

the input sensitivity of your amp is: Low Level: 125mV–5V High Level: 250mV–10V So set to amp level to high and the output voltage of the epicenter to 10V and that should work.

If you tested them at home before installation and found them to sound ok on the guitars and after installation not then the issue is in the install. It's important to audition equipment before installing because drivers have their own sound signature which one may agree or not, tone controls, equalizers and such cannot always make one thing to sound like another.

Don't think Bluetooth has anything to do with it but you can place the same files on USB and see what happens. You could get some different test tones from elsewhere. Also a you should cold reset your head unit before any tests, all setting should be at zero. But as I told you I would test the DD-1 to be working correctly before reaching any conclusions.

Check your DD-1 to be operating correctly with another audio source, say another head unit.

Two subs of different sizes in the same box, that's a no go, just saying.

You can learn a lot just from reading older posts, I guess almost any questions you may have has been addressed at some point in these forums, for example if you want a discussion on how narrow your port should be read this: If you want to figure out the effects of tuning, I can tell you that the best tool you already have which is the bassbox software, but if you actually want o find out how it actually sounds, you cannot be told that, you need to experience it by building and testing enclosures. The software to draw the figures is called sketchup, kind of hard to use at first but it's free to use. let us know your progress on your build, you will learn a lot just by getting it to perform well, that's why I posted those two vids, get your system to perform better than them and you will know you are getting good at designing systems. recheck all the concerns I had with your system and see what you can come up with.

Also you can check the following vids to see how much performance other people have managed with your same sub, review their system specs and maybe ask some questions? Since these guys use and know brazilian components you can get better answers on stuff available in your country.

So I just wanted to see how is your system and I must say that your system is pretty nice and you do have a mulltimeter and a portable scope which should be enough for you to get it to work perfectly, the areas of concern that I see and may hurt your output are the following: 1) In the past system you show in the pics there seems to be no space for rear batteries so apparently you were running the system on the front battery only. 2) the enclosure you show there is no port visible and if there is a port on either side it wouldn't have enough clearance to work properly so yes a new ported enclosure should help you to get louder. 3) The stock alternator you mention of 60A could have a hard time recharging your batteries and could get damaged over time if you play your system loud for anything more than a few minutes a day and you would need to play your system a low level for a big while the alternator recharges your batts, you need to either get an aftermarket a high output alternator or use an external charger to keep your batts charged and help your current alternator from overworking . 4) Don't know if your amp actually puts out the claimed power, many soundstream amps put out much lower power than they claim, if so you could be losing output there. 5) Don't know of you went through a proper gain settings procedure BUT your DSP have an amplitude limiter function which should ensure that once it's setup you will not experience clipping as long as your head unit does not clip. Please read carefully the above points and seek to address the issues to get better performance in your current system.

So before anything I would like to know your situation, do you have a working system that is not performing well and you want to improve it? If the sub has currently an enclosure, do you have specs? Do you have any pics of your system you would like to share?

So here is a second suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: Tuning down to 34Hz and F3 of 26Hz, will be adequate for low tuned, music, net volume up to 4 cubic feet. NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.

I take note of your new maximum dimensions but I would like to know brand and model of your sub, amp, head unit, other components you may have like equalizer, DSP or any other device you may have. Also how is your electrical spec, battery, alternator, wiring, etc. Also check this video on what is cliipping and why you need to avoid it, it's meant to be short and simple, I will post other links later:

Box wise you do a larger internal volume to get more output with less power, in your case going to 4 cubic feet net should be doable but I already made the box as big as your available space allows. Tuning should be as low as the music you play needs but not lower, I think if you generally do not play low tuned music like rap you are better off with the higher tuning you chose. To avoid damage to your sub you should be aware of clipping, specially with modern full bridge amplifiers which if not used properly can clip very easily. Clipping is one sure way to destroy a sub. If you are not familiar with this let me know let me know and I will post you some links so that you know how to avoid it.

Here are the plots for the above box for the D4 version of the sub: Projected in-car frequency response: Cone displacement: Vent airspeed: Should sound pretty good but since you asked for higher tuning your -3db half power frequency is about 31 Hz, so not too great for low tuned stuff like rap.

So here is a suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.

It feels surrealistic to read that you want dual alternators and 4800 Watt RMS worth of amplifiers to drive four 300 watt subwoofers. Am I missing something? If those subs were Sundown X v3 then it would barely make sense.

What are the maximum dimensions for a box?

Double vs triple.

Here are my 2 cents, take the time to answer at least some of the questions we asked you if you seriously are looking for help.

You just resurrected a 14 year old thread, pretty awesome. Is this a new issue or you are just finishing a new install?

That port is a joke as you describe it, you should list your full box design and pics of everything, your subs are kind of entry level too. Also relax a bit please, one thing at a time. and a lot of pics.

Thanks for sharing your work.

This was better in the enclosures section I think, Do a box sub / port up to sundown specs to avoid rattle.

Give unclipped 750W RMS to this sub and it will work without issues if your box is properly designed, NEVER forget to engage your amp's subsonic filter to 28-30Hz.

Yes, the pic is just an assembly guide, the extension is so small that you could just not do it.