Joe X

As before post the maximum dimensions for a box. anyhow if this is a trunk car and you have subs up then you may get less output because of that.

I missed the one on the 45s, they take away some airspace and have not consistently proven to be necessary (those shown in the port turn do help though), I will rephrase on the double baffle answer, remains your option to do a single baffle (it will not take away 0.5 cubic feet though if that was the case I would do a single baffle also). Can't see a Torres screenshot sorry.

Ok let me answer some of those: 1) Answered. 2) Not necessarily, also remember that the bigger the port the shorter the compression chamber becomes for a given volume. 3) It may provide a little better support like suggested but you can assemble it the way you want as long as is physically the same. Check your Torres to have # of common walls set to 3 and number of extra to 1 and all the rest, your result is low. on the double baffle, do it or not IMO yes but you can disagree and do a single baffle.

Ok here is a suggestion, yes you are restricted on those dims but withing the range suggested by RE: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.9 Hz Vb = 3.3 ft^3 External Height = 16.5 in External Width = 28 in External Depth = 21.5 in Port Width = 3 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 28 x 16 1/2 Left & Right Sides = 19 1/4 x 15 Top & Bottom = 28 x 19 1/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 15 3/4 x 15 Extension = 5 1/2 x 15 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): The pic shows how to smooth the port turn, the width of the port must never below 3 1/2" so cut the 45 accordingly, if you can't better don't do them at all. Let me know any questions.

Ok post max dims for the box vehicle and amp models, main type of music you listen.

Perfectly straight cuts!!

For a given constant area the taller is a box the thinner is the port BUT one can make a box not as tall and a bit wider, just to make you happy I have made just that, now the port is 2" and the box is 15" tall, it has the port area it needs for that tuning frequency and the sub you are using (actually a bit more than it needs).

Well go for the 2.4K setup considering that front stage.. but I'm just curious on why are you locked on those brands for sub/amp, not to say are bad stuff.

Here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.23 Hz Vb = 0.6 ft^3 External Height = 9.625 in External Width = 25.75 in External Depth = 9 in Port Width = 1 1/8 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 25 3/4 x 9 5/8 Left & Right Sides = 7 1/2 x 8 1/8 Top & Bottom = 25 3/4 x 7 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 6 3/8 x 8 1/8 Extension = 21 1/4 x 8 1/8 The center line length of the port is 32 1/8" and needs 2 45s 2 1/2" wide (0.015 cubic feet displacement) to be placed to match the net volume. Torres was used for this.

Say for that sub a ported box for a trunk car, this would be a possible good box: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34 Hz Vb = 1.6 ft^3 External Height = 14 in External Width = 30 in External Depth = 13 in Port Width = 1 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 30 x 14 Left & Right Sides = 10 3/4 x 12 1/2 Top & Bottom = 30 x 10 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 9 x 12 1/2 Extension = 14 x 12 1/2

At $60 each don't expect much, post your vehicle, amp and max dimensions for the box.

Here is a suggestion, but you need to set your subsonic filter on and keep your gains low, not good for 1500W RMS anyway: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32 Hz Vb = 1.85 ft^3 External Height = 15 in External Width = 28.75 in External Depth = 14 in Port Width = 2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 26 x 13 1/2 Back = 28 3/4 x 13 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 12 1/2 x 13 1/2 Side 2 = 13 1/4 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 28 3/4 x 14 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 10 1/2 x 13 1/2 Extension = 19 x 13 1/2 Changes comments or questions let me know.

You can do most single 15s on 17x36x19 leaving half your trunk free, in 17x36x12 you can fit most 12s" so that just to give you an idea, I think a 15 is perfectly doable on thiose dims, As for that amp, there is an overwhelming number of reports of it overheating so consider that. Lastly I would pick the AA from those two.

From hifonics look for CEA certified amplifiers, those will do about rated.

I took a shot in the dark on all of it. I assumed 1 cube net would be enough then I went with the 2 to 1 thing on the ported side. I read to tune high, I should have gone higher. It was all just a wild hair up my ass! no testing on term lab here, I just wanted output on music. I really wanted a tline box but with a fs of 29 I could not fit it I Ported can go low enough and sound clean, takes moderate space, unless you are seeking a specific goal I don't see a compelling reason to go with anything other than ported. You can still install some 8" midbass drivers to make up for the rollof of the bandpass.

Well here is a suggestion (for the car in the sig): Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35.5 Hz Vb = 3.15 ft^3 External Height = 16 in External Width = 40 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 3 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 40 x 16 Left & Right Sides = Side 1 = 14 1/2 x 13 3/4 Side 2 = 15 1/4 x 13 3/4 Front = 35 1/2 x 13 3/4 Back = 40 x 13 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 10 3/4 x 13 3/4 Extension = 11 x 13 3/4 If you want something different let me know

Again post your dims H,W,D of your trunk, will tell you what can you fit and how much of it will be used. It also depends on the sub some work in small boxes, some don't.

Just divide the width of the port window by the height if it gives above 9 the surface resistance of the port is going to be too high, it's a rule of thumb though, it can cause about the same effects of low port area: lost efficiency and probably port noise, just letting you know so that you bear that in mind in future designs. For now check the rest of your system as indicated my previous post.

Just enter the 13.5" port length in Torres, it gives like 37Hz. This is just to point out that you are not getting the tuning you designed for.

Does the port turn? or is just those 13.5" front to back.

The better way to fit subs in a trunk is firing forward or back if you have 16-17" H then you can. I think you have that, but the best way to know is taking measurements.

Can you post the Torres screenshot that you used to build that box that box?

Your box has a port cross-sectional area ratio fault, should be kept 9:1 BUT that should not be the reason of your problem, I would look if you are not receiving a high passed signal from the HU for example. Also the sub amp should low-passed 60 - 80Hz, the front stage should pick up from there, the subsonic filter is ok at 20Hz. You also should check the polarity of all the connections to the subs and their coils.

I'm sure I have never seen work like this before.. the only thing I would expect to be different is the hatch, I know the glass is curved but straight below that. Anyways you measure the port length you do it end to end along it's center line to either side (not both), if you are entering the sum of the parts length that's a mistake.

Bear in mind that this is not a design, just a way out for the ports without taking much net volume. Yes there's plenty of infos around the internet about the increased acoustic power but I don't think that 2" more or less will change anything dramatically.