Joe X

The necessary port area really depends on the subs, the port area per cube is only a rule of thumb, for those subs you are usingI would go for no more than 16.

If you are going by RF specs just note that they specify Vb as the gross volume (before any displacements). Not to say you can't pick a larger volume. Also if this is a standard L port design then you should set the "# of common walls" box to 3.

TC Sounds for SQ, for an IB setup Acoustic Elegance. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-650

A single 6" aero mounted on the baffle 19" long on a box 35" W x 20" D x 13.5" H will do the job. You can either place an elbow to make it turn or run it partially external. it will give you about 8 square inces per cube, 30Hz and 3.5 cubic feet of net volume. Should be pretty easy.

A single side mounted 6" aero and reducing the width of the box to 35 would leave you 3.5 cubic feet of net volume, 30.5 Hz of tuning and 8.1 square inches per cube of port area.which would be acceptable for low to medium power/excursion subs, but if you really have 0.47 cubes of subs/bracing displacement maybe those are high power subs, in that case 8.1 square inches per cube may be low if you want good efficiency.

Yes but your port area per cube would be below 7.

Ok in case you decided to go ported, here is a suggestion based on kicker's spec and in your dims also better port area and ok for use on rated power: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 36.7 Hz Vb = 3.5 ft^3 External Height = 14 in External Width = 33 in External Depth = 20 in Port Width = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 33 x 14 Left & Right Sides = 18 1/2 x 12 1/2 Top & Bottom = 33 x 18 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 12 1/2 There is an alternative assembly method in case you don't want to cut the port through the baffle.

What are the maximum dims for this box?

You may try this: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 2 ft^3 External Height = 15 in External Width = 23 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 23 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 15 3/4 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 23 x 15 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 13 3/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 7 x 13 1/2 Assemmles like this:

Here are some infos: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/thiele.asp

Ok, here is a suggestion, within your dims and factoring in your power. Port/sub firing frontwards or backwards: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 3.897 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 16 in External Width = 29.75 in External Depth = 25 in Port Width = 4 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 29 3/4 x 16 Left & Right Sides = 22 3/4 x 14 1/2 Top & Bottom = 29 3/4 x 22 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 18 1/4 x 14 1/2 Extension = 2 3/4 x 14 1/2 Assembly guide not showing bracing or port optimizations (generic dimensions!!): Any changes you would like done? let me know.

That would give 400W RMS to each sub at 2 Ohm.

Sure that would be awesome!! So here are some basic suggestions, hope it helps:

Likely the your problem was not the box you have.. ALONE.. bottom line you want it louder.. Chaging tuning helps a lot sometimes (EXPLANATION: As pointed out on an earlier post your port area per cube is 8.5 so you can rebuild your port to get better port area and ADDITIONALY a higher tuning could be chosen if modelling supports the possibility of increased output )...or you can gain a few dBs also with a 2:1 type 4th bandpass...

Ina back seat is different since you are not just hammering the trunck lid, two 12" (well chosen) front/back firing will be better.

Regarless of which will be "louder" factor in that you need to fit the 15" sub frontwards or backwards so if you don't have that go for 12"s.

MTX suggests a box which is 2.48 cubic feet at 32Hz, port area per cubic feet of net volume is 11.617 But probably that is a compact suggestion.

Its a single flat piece of MDF: Front to Back = 25 x 34 1/2 Parallel to the bottom wall, the bottom port needs bracing, if you would like me to submit ab updated sketchup showing optimizations and bracng, let me know.

You have the perfect amp for those subs, I also think it would fit your car well and leave some space for other stuff. You need to like the sound of those subs though.

Ok Terry Zona, about the center deflector you need to make sure that the width never goes lower than 2 3/8" so making that piece larger than it needs to be will detune the port, if I can help with anything let me know.

You take the mounting depth an half the diameter of the magnet to know at what angle it will hit the floor, basically you have to model the mounting position factoring in the bottom sheet of MDF, it can't touch the bottom though so some clearance has to be considered.

Yes in a 17" tall box it will probably fit but I need to know the diameter of the magnet or it will hit the floor of the box with the wrong angle.

Lost output and a lot of noise from the trunk lid getting hammered.

On a sealed box, very few.

Don't build it just like that, it needs to be calculated so just le me know what you decide and I will give you a suggestion, or use the Torres calculator.