Blackedout

Nice design Ram. Interested to see how it works.

Looking a little further into it. The B&G PDR is a solid tweeter. It would be something solid to run if you wanted to try it. http://www.zaphaudio.com/nondomes/ It got compared to a $29 dome tweeter and won.

how are they tricky? and how would u fail? im am curious cause i was thinking of tryin them http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/2-using-ribbon-tweeters-car.html Positioning them plays a bigger role than a normal tweeter. Due to the fact that cars don't have idea sound stage setups, like home audio setups or theater setups, it may take some trial and error to get these to work AND sound good doing it. They aren't straight forward like a normal 3/4" or 1" tweeter. I'm not saying don't try it, but I'm saying you might need to try it a couple times to get it right. You can throw them in and put power to them disregarding the sound stage and imaging and have them work every time. But to expect them to sound phenomenal and exceed that of a high quality silk dome tweeter on the first try, it may not happen.

Planar tweets are tricky. Wouldn't recommend them for someone who isn't willing to fail on their first installation with them. Keep it simple.

It's completely user dependent and crossover dependent on which one you prefer. I've noticed that the silk domes seem to be a little easier on the ear. I prefer silk over aluminum, however, if you listen to music that requires a little brighter tweets, like rap, then an aluminum might be the tweeter for you. Like I said, I prefer a silk dome. I listen to everything. EDIT: Judging from your signature, it might be time to step it up and grab a highs amplifier. An Alpine MRP-F300 should put a little more volume in your highs. From there, save a little and drop your money on a component set. Pioneer does make pretty decent component sets for the money, if you want to keep a matching setup. They can be had for a little more than a set of tweeters alone.... Something to think about. Havent personally used these, but at your stage in the game, it should be a noticeable upgrade from (assuming) coaxial speakers. Read the reviews. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31089_Pioneer-TS-A1604C.html?gclid=CKy6kKzwkaoCFRpNgwod0z_jzA#tabs

45 the port itself then add the "triangle." You don't want to block the port... A 1/2" lip probably won't do much for you.

Underhung coil... Looking forward to the results.

Sounds like a loose power connection. Whether it be the remote, the power, or the ground. I'd start there.

Haha more like james and james. Ray would chill while he works lmao LOL.... Speaking of Chillin. Whos bringing the beer?

This sounds like fun. Me and Kingsuv. When are we going to build?

XS power or stinger lead the car audio industry in batteries.

You don't have the room Mario. You'd be lucky to get the amount of airspace, power, and electrical in the trunk that you're trying to do in a ported box. Though if you wanna do a wall with a place for the car seat in the port, Ya might have some room. LOL

KingSUV taught me this trick. Grab some shrink tubing, about 1" long for each input. Once your wire is stripped, (Don't twist it, just leave it straight) slide the shrink tubing over the stripped end until about 1/4" or more is overlapping the bare strands of wire. Take a heat gun and shrink the tubing down so that it puts pressure on strands. Should look something like this once installed.

Yup... I needed to. On independent suspension setups, weight lowers the car creating negative Camber which can create toe, which wears tires more than anything.

Tuned in. Whats the goal Steve? Loudest system you've ever built or loudest system you've ever heard of?

I am running the same ones in a boat. 4 selenium 6.5" mids, 4 selenium super tweeters w// PE 5khz crossovers on a hifonics amp. Each of the 4 speakers are in parallel with a super tweeter. Bridged using 2 channels of the amp. Individually, Each speaker/ tweeter setup reads 6.8 ohms. Bridged, it's around 4 ohms. Take a picture of the filters on the back of your amp. Make sure that if you're using all 4 channels, the amp is set to "4 channel," and vice versa if you're using it as a 2 channel amp. In addition, make sure that your deck has all its 'boost' features off. Set the EQ to flat. Do you have any processing in line? EQ? Line Driver? Anything. If it's a 5 volt pioneer, the deck shouldn't put out 5 volts at volume 18/62. So that more than likely rules out a problem with the input voltage. Make sure your ground is tight, and your fuse is tight both upfront and in the back if you have batteries in the back and or up front. An amp will turn on with a remote and a ground, and go straight into protect.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/380347743875?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar Kenwood 7204 170x 2 @4 ohm 250 x 2 @ 2 ohm

http://www.mercurynews.com/top-stories/ci_18282733 I think it sucks.... What do you think?

5 years for a ground can cause some corrosion. You didn't ground to a seat belt buckle or anything did you? Smell the amp, if you can see a vent hole. If it smells burnt you might have something else going on. Go up front under the hood and double check your ground connection from the frame to the battery. (This should be the same size as the ground lead going into your amp, BTW. If you have a MultimeterRead the voltage coming off the RCAs when your problem starts. Put it on a bass heavy song and turn it up.

Pretty sure I'll make this one. It was a good time last year. Should be just a cool this year.

Box is too big. Not enough port area (Widen it, don't lengthen it. Length tunes lower, width determines cone control). Tuned a little low. Fs of that sub is 31. Tune slightly above it. 32-35. ~15 sq inches of port per cubic foot of box. http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Orion/GHCCA102%202008-11MLweb2.pdf Page 18 gives you a bunch of info. Looks like they mixed up sealed and ported enclosure, but 3.6- 5 cubes is typical for a 15. They recommend tuning at 38.

I can tell the difference in adjustments after I've gotten used to the system... 1DB..... Opening the windows gains in some cars.

Replace the wire and route the fuse holder in a loop futher away from the engine. Is that a fuse holder that doesn't require ring terminals similar to this: http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Amplifier-Fuse-Holder/NEW-TSUNAMI-FBW701-ANL-1-0-OR-4-GAUGE-FUSE-HOLDER/FBW701-ANL.aspx Does a grub screw or the actual screw that holds the fuse in place hold that wire into the fuse block? Kinda hard to tell, but I don't see a ring terminal on the output side so I'm assuming it's a possibility. If it is, that wire shouldn't have been tinned, which by the looks of it there's solder all over the place. Tinning wire like that reduces the amount of surface area that contacts the terminal, increasing resistance and creating heat. Once the solder melts down, the wire isn't the same diameter as it was before because the solder get sucked up the wire. What you're left with once the wire gets hot is a loose connection... and more resistance. If that setup uses a ring terminal, at least you know... don't tin wires that go into blocks like that. Route that wire as far from the engine as you can. If it means using some extra wire and taking a loop around the back side of the battery, do it. Fasten the fuse block securely to something so it's not hanging.

right now stock deck since it's a 2011. and yes i'm everything else is includeded in the budget, but i don't need help with that stuff, just the amp and subs. as for highs, i talked to him about compenents and stuff, and he said he would upgrade later on. You're never going to get F350 loud UNDER the back seats. You can make it sound great though, no doubt. I'd put a pair of 600 RMS 10" subs under the back seat off about 1000-1400 RMS. Your choice. DD1510 - DDM1B DC LVL3 10 - DC 2.0K @ Half power. SA10- SAE1200D AQ SDC2.5 10 - AQ 1200D Alpine Type R 10 - PDX 1000.1 Anyone of those subs and power combinations should have enough airspace to function properly and enough power to have some output. You're better off putting a smaller sub in an idea enclosure than putting a bigger sub in an inadequate enclosure. A proper enclosure will give you more output and better frequency response.

Rediculous. I'm installing Four Selenium STs and 4 selenium Speakers right now in a boat and they get stupid. Looking at this setup makes my ears ring.