Miguels

the build stopped dead on its tracks

dude are you Ben Stein

it was made to run at 1ohm so dont see how wiring at 1ohm is a waste.. with 1500 watts i even doubt he will be competing and will only be using it as a daily.. blowing the amp will be a waste specially if he dont need the extra wattage

i dont get it.. want more power from an amp get a bigger amp.. there is a scv2000d and even a scv3000d if you need more power

done a few transaction with ken aka orionstang.. would deal with again

mine is a hairpin who knows if his is. if the pulley on the alternator is the same size as the stock then there wont be an issue but if its smaller there will. by his post (Also will the alternator even turn on if its idling slower with the stock pulley?)i will assume its a smaller diameter which will effect the idle to a point it wont even turn on at idl . also op.. if the pulley is the same size and its not slipping you have other issues.. changing the pulley wont change anything if its identical.. you might want to check if the bearing on the alternator are seized so again broke.. just because i bought one that has a stock diameter alternator pulley and know what it does dont mean his will do the same.. same brand different models different performance.. not all alternators are created equal even from same manufacturer

changing the pulley to stock size might render the alt useless at idle and you will have to rev the engine higher to get the rated amperage you need to look at the belt wrap around the alternator.. you might have to add a pulley to give it better belt wrap

I happen to have that bracket that helps with belt wrap. I got it for my expedition but never used it.

Shorter belt might not fix your issue. 4.6 have one of the worst belt wrap. There is a fix for it but cost $200.

good.. i was thinking they got my email an address wrong but now it seems everyone is on the waiting list

I wasn't told that or might have missed it when they told me. Thanks

Has anyone gotten shipping information on their unit?

i noticed it too.. thought i would see 2 amps on the dyno

did good.. now only time will tell if they are durable amps

then you dont need it and the shop wants to take money from it.. the way you have it is perfect

i just said what cars need to have grounds running to the front.. a unibody car.. a fox body mustang being one of them, Jesus Christ.. they have no frame connecting the front to the rear and all that keeps them together is a bushing with rubber on it.. why do you think you need to ground the alternator to the battery? could it be because the heads have a gaskets that affects the path of return.. not all cars need to have the grounds running to the front but many do. or you have to find a way to ground the rear frame correctly because a bushing with a rubber is not sufficient enough.. yeah there might be ground back there but could have resistance lets find out what car he has first to see if the shop wants to take him on his money

youre missing the point.. its all dependent. you dont know what car he has and the shop might be right about running the grounds to the front

what car is it that you want to do?

if he dont have a solid ground he will have to run it to the front.. the panel is not stout enough to carry grounds.. also there are body bushing with rubber that can affect the current.. the best ground is the frame.. if there is frame under the trunk he will have to drill a hole to ground to it.. if its a unibody he will have to run the grounds to the front or find a way to connect the front frame to the rear frame

if you ground over the carpet you will have a bad day.. it needs to be in solid metal not even the panel is a good ground.. if you dont have solid metal in the rear run the grounds to the front battery

if you dont ground nothing will work

at least it helps to see the consistency on manufacturing

Just placed my order.

I need one for the Ls swap. Will these alternator handle high rpm like 6800 to 7000 engine speed?