AB18VFL

he shreds, reminds me of richie belton's style circa 2002

any updates??

NEVER buy a "h/o alternator" from ebay. They will give you the "220 amps" you need, but at 3500rpm. and yes the extra bettery should be more than enough voltage for 1500rms on music.

and you need to include WAY more details about your system

please rephrase this using english, grammar, and maybe some punctuation please.

12" or 15" level 2 m2 shipped to 14622

thanks man, i gotta come clean, its not a real STI or WRX. Its a Impreza 2.5rs with OEM STI body parts

Speaker wire: 22 gauge: ~2.2 amperes 8 ohms - <36 watts 6 ohms - <27 watts 4 ohms - <18 watts 3 ohms - <13.5 watts 2 ohms - <9 watts 1 ohm - <4.5 watts 20 gauge: ~3.4 amperes 8 ohms - <96 watts 6 ohms - <72 watts 4 ohms - <48 watts 3 ohms - <36 watts 2 ohms - <24 watts 1 ohm - <12 watts 18 gauge: ~5.5 amperes 8 ohms - <240 watts 6 ohms - <180 watts 4 ohms - <120 watts 3 ohms - <90 watts 2 ohms - <60 watts 1 ohm - <30 watts 16 gauge: ~8.7 amperes 8 ohms - <600 watts 6 ohms - <450 watts 4 ohms - <300 watts 3 ohms - <225 watts 2 ohms - <150 watts 1 ohm - <75 watts 14 gauge: ~13.7 amperes 8 ohms - <1500 watts 6 ohms - <1125 watts 4 ohms - <750 watts 3 ohms - <563 watts 2 ohms - <375 watts 1 ohm - <188 watts 12 gauge: ~21.8 amperes 8 ohms - <3800 watts 6 ohms - <2850 watts 4 ohms - <1900 watts 3 ohms - <1425 watts 2 ohms - <950 watts 1 ohm - <475 watts 10 gauge: ~34.6 amperes 8 ohms - <9600 watts 6 ohms - <7200 watts 4 ohms - <4800 watts 3 ohms - <3600 watts 2 ohms - <2400 watts 1 ohm - <1200 watts 8 gauge: ~55 amperes 8 ohms - <24000 watts 6 ohms - <18000 watts 4 ohms - <12000 watts 3 ohms - <9000 watts 2 ohms - <6000 watts 1 ohm - <3000 watts

sorry that was very trolling of me, i would not get soundstream. still pretty pricey IMO. for a good price, id grab an audioque hdc3 sub and a 1200d

i would feel like shit if all i had was $600 to spend on a good build. All i would be able to get is.....a head unit, maybe some rcas...

hybrid theory had tons of loud parts front to back. random 808s all over.

yes, and roughly 10 hours of listening....so in my case, about 10 days.

If you're like me, you HATE having ugly badges on the rear end of your car. Or maybe you just dont want people knowing what kind of car you drive? My last car was a 99 Chevy Monte Carlo. I wanted to remove "chevrolet" and "monte carlo" and especially the "LS" badges without taking any paint off. I got behind each letter with a piece if dental floss. The letters came off pretty nicely, but then I was left with horrendous foam and glue on the paint. I tried a bunch of stuff to take it off (3M adhesive remover, WD40...), but nothing would take it off. I was left with no option but to attempt peeling it all off with my fingers. After 2 hours, I got it all off. All I had to do now was wash the blood off my bumper. Recently my friend came up with the idea of picking up a vinyl Strip Removing Wheel. I had no idea what it was, so I went to 'Auto Finishers' and picked one up. When I saw it, I was terrified. By the looks of it, I was sure it would not only remove the badges, but every layer of paint on the back of my trunk. He hooked it into his power drill, and I walked away. I couldnt watch. Litterally 45 seconds later, he called me back into the garage, and my trunk was GORGEOUS. Left not even a speck of glue or foam. And my paint was actually shinier in that area. How come I never knew about this when debadging all of my other cars? I absolutely recommend this tool to anyone who wants their whip looking clean and stealthy. Before: After:

subs that dont move? excuse me while i vomit.

i've always wanted to learn about gettin rid of dat pop!

no, the only thing run off that fuse is my monoblock

if the amp only has 60a of fusing, it wont hurt me to put in a larger gauge on the power wire?

the power wire is already a cheap 1/0, so its bigger than 4gauge.

About 4 days ago, i installed a JBL BP600.1 monoblock amp to run my sub. It's rated at 600@2 but unrated at 1 ohm, HOWEVER IT IS 1 OHM STABLE. I tuned the amp and deck with my DD-1, so I know the gain isnt too jacked (only at 5/10). I havent had any problems until tonight. I got in my car, and started bumping (for only about 45 seconds), then my subs cut out. The amp never went into protect, and I know the sub isnt blown because there was no smell or sounds of stress. When I got home, i looked under the hood, and the 60a inline fuse was completely fucked. The amp has two 30a fuses built in. Why did this happen? and what can I do to keep this from happening again? I didnt think it would be a good idea to increase fuse size on the power wire, but im wondering what you think?

its a good idea to.

everytime i come across this problem, it always seems to be where the RCAs are hooked into the HU

lemme c yo grillz

140 was the run before that one though haha

i know what i'm doing, i've competed, been metered many times, i've build over 100 boxes in my day. it came in the car when i bought it, and the weather hasnt been good enough for me to get out and build another. im not saying the trunk flex is showing how loud it is. I just wanted to see how bad the spoiler would flex with a system in there. I dont want it falling off. for a single 10" sub on 600 watts (IF THAT), I know it's loud. If i had to guess, id say id do a 38 @ 45hz. pretty good if its a 38 i wouldnt doubt it if it did honestly. I did 140.0 in my last car with a single P3 12

i know what i'm doing, i've competed, been metered many times, i've build over 100 boxes in my day. it came in the car when i bought it, and the weather hasnt been good enough for me to get out and build another. im not saying the trunk flex is showing how loud it is. I just wanted to see how bad the spoiler would flex with a system in there. I dont want it falling off. for a single 10" sub on 600 watts (IF THAT), I know it's loud. If i had to guess, id say id do a 38 @ 45hz.