jrchevy87

the lack of carpet is your problem, i just had the same issue with my jeep, so i just put a piece of carpet on the bottom of the box and used two l brackets on the back of the box to keep it from sliding around

thats not enough information what r the dimensions of the port and the overall dims are 38x38x14?

yes my 1500 watt amp draws roughly 148 amps at full tilt

several ppl have run extra batts, they put WAY less of a strain on the alt then an amp does

10's dont sound any better than twelves do its all about the box, i used to think that too till i played some slipknot on my brother in laws explorer with an 18 tuned to 32 hz on 1000 watts and it sounds friggen awesome, i also have a twelve in my jeep and i cant distinguish a difference between the 18 and 12 except that the 18 is way louder lol

big three, extra batt's and depending on the amperage of your factory alt and how many watts possibly an alternator. the only way to find out what volume your head unit clips at is with either a dd-1 or a o-scope. i dont know if anyone has done a dual head unit but theres a thread in the head unit section that i believe is pinned but see if your headunit is in there, its called what volume do head units clip at ps welcome to the forum

i dont know if its the right section but i always stretch it as much as possible then cut the x in it but give it an inch to an inch and a half depending on how well it stretched cuz it will tear more as you wrap it, and as far as the rounded edges nothing changes but its easier to wrap that way imo

yep thats exactly it, and on the chart left side is if your using just one battery and the right side is if ur using it as a secondary battery

nahh they heat less then before, i appreciate all the help troubleshooting, it led to this solution, so far so good, i wish there were more instructions on how to do this, this is my first time hooking up 2 amps for subs and mids/highs, hate to blow 2k+ worth of equipment not doing it right lol not a problem and i deffinately hear you there, it's already expensive enough then factor in when something fails.

it works so i wouldnt complain lol, as long as your amps dont overheat and it sounds good then thumbs up

personally im a fan of inverting, depending on the sub it can look awesome, thats the box i built for my brother in laws explorer. it's a re sx 18 d2 run off a hifonics zeus 5 channel.

it would be nice just to know tho, i dunno that might just be the way i am. if i were to do a box were the reflecting wave could cancel out the other it'd be nice to know how that would happen mathematically

actually it very well could be your rca's because its on amp one that passes through to amp 2 and the passthru will take the front channels and pass them through to the second amp, so that rules out your pass thru on the amp. i think you should just swap the front and rear rca's and just disconnect the second amp so you could hear it more clearly and listen to your front stage and see if you notice one side louder than the other. Lol this is what i get for trying to think at 2 in the morning

Thats the part i havent gotten to yet lol, but i do know one thing cancellation will only happen at a specific frequency with a rollon(i guess u could say since it'd get louder)

no the amp will pass through no matter what setting its on, and thats weird that it works on center. i dunno maybe someone else will have some more insight on this

it could be bad wiring to the speaker, bad speaker or a dead channel on the amp, take a dmm and get a reading off the channel your having issues with, if your getting voltage then compare it to the voltage off a known working channel and if theyre similar then the amp is doing its job and its in the speaker or wire

thats actually a pretty good ? and ive been wondering about that myself, the only way that i could think to do it is to reasearch wave lengths and how they travel and distances traveled per wave then look at the reflection factor and where the wavelengths meet - to + that would be cancellation, but ive also been wondering if you could have cancellation with just one sub the reflecting wave hits the cone at an opposite wave but i just havent had the time to do the research and math lol

you should be good for 2k, at worst just grab a third batt, the good thing about bass is that its not constant the power demands will vary from note to note so you can get away with running more power than your alt can supply at one time but with the extra batts its like a buffer the batts can supply enough power for the amp then the alt can recharge the batts at its own rate

just do the math, if you have a 120 amp alt and your car uses prolly 30% of that so that leaves roughly 90 amps for your system. so 90x14.4=1296watts then factor in the efficiency of a typical class d amp(70% usually) and that gives you 907 watts on your factory electrical system, anything above that and youll need extra batts and upgraded alternator

you could get an aftermarket filter and built a stand where ur current fuse holder is and that should keep it nice looking, i cant really tell but it doesnt look like you'd have enough room with the stock air box

most music is recorded -5 decibels so the -5 decibel track is used to find maximum clean output at -5 dbs, if you play a 0 db there will be a decent amount of clipping, i dont have any way to measure it but it would be just in the danger zone if not worse, so set your amp with the dbs that you play. if your using 0 db test tones frequently then tune with a 0 db track and if you listen to non bass boosted music tune with the -5 db track and for music thats been boosted depending on how much its being boosted you tune between -5 and 0

I just did one champion pro 12 and it sounds awesome with 2 cubic feet and 2 four inch ports. Definately better than 1.25 cubic feetband it digs a lot lower now with better cone control but then again I'm loading the port about2.5" away from the side

so just ground my amps directly to the rear battery? i always thought you should ground amps to the chassis or frame because that would require the shortest length of ground wire. You need the shortest wire for the (-) since the electricity will be flowing through the wire AND the chasis. If you run a wire to the battery, it's only running through the wire. ^he beat me to it lol

NP man. honestly id run the amp grounds to the battery its a more direct route, and less resistance. chassis grounds used to be great b4 these new alloys and/or the rust and corrosion of older cars, now you cant really beat a copper ground

you have to have it grounded one way or another, either a run from the front batt or from the rear batt to the chassis. if you have a run from the front battery then a chassis ground isnt gonna help anything wired directly to the batteries its just gonna help anything thats grounded to the chassis