aN-i-No

Those are the "Black Fi-Day" X's from 2010 (I think 2010....lol). They're different but I think the box sizes would be the same.

That post is inherently oxymoronish.

To the OP your Hifonics amp is the same. It needs a fuse within 18" of it's power wire. Probably a 200 amp. Ahh thank you. I'm looking to upgrade my wiring from the CCA DBlink stuff to some knukonceptz OFC 1/0, do I need to upgrade the other things that came in the kit such as the speaker wire and RCAs? Wow that fucks up my name lol. Anyway as long as the RCA's don't give you noise you're fine. The speaker wire is fine as long as it isn't burning up. And I HIGHLY recommend KnuKonceptz. I will not use any other wire but theirs. They have great CS, fast shipping, and the product is proven.

His ears won't notice much of a difference but his alternator will if it's stock.

I heard a woman's voice say "switching positions" like 5 times in a row...google that shit.

Uhm...an internal fuse is a fuse that sticks out of the side of your amp. Your AQ2200 does not have that. It needs a fuse within 18" of its power wire. To the OP your Hifonics amp is the same. It needs a fuse within 18" of it's power wire. Probably a 200 amp.

i knew i was spelling it wrong. Thanks. I also saw they have a 5500 version. I have 2 18" fi btl's nd just need to kno if i should go wit 1 3500 to each for just get 5500 for both? Ima start saving for all tbe electrical, nd have a pretty goof idea of wat to get, just cant decide on amp configuratio. What do you have planned for the electrical setup?

Well that blows...you could always run new wire and splice it before it goes into the plug. I wouldn't recommend it but since you're having an issue it's worth a try. Does anybody around you have an aftermarket amp you could try to use? Or better than that...can you get to the positive and negative leads of the rear speakers? You could temporarily run a speaker wire straight from the back of the aftermarket HU to the rears (skipping the factory amp) and see if it works correctly then.

15's don't really...."sound" like anything. If your new setup with the 15 sounds different than the SA-12's (which it will) it won't be because you went from a 12's to a 15, it'll be because it's a totally different sub setup lol. Otherwise if you use that logic then all 12" sub setups would sound similar. I KNOW you don't think all 12's sound the same right? There are 15's that sound wonderful and other 15's that sound like poop. The 15's that sound like poop are probably SPL subs that will sound like poop no matter what size basket and cone is attached to the motor. Likewise, the ones that sound good will sound good no matter what size it is. The only way that cone size affects sound is that the bigger ones will pressurize more air and be louder.

so it would have to be a stock wire or stock ground though correct? Since that is the only active wiring. and running them all form the speakers to the back of the HU would be a serious pain. My plan was to run my 4 channel from the plug in the back that has all the speakers wired to it.. it would be so much easier this way. My doors have molex plugs that are impossible to modify. wondering if i wired it like that if the problem would persist since it has to be a stock wiring issue. Obviously the aftermarket amp wwould have a new ground and power wire, along with a remote wire. By grounding out he means that a stock speaker wire is cut and touching bare metal at some point between the HU and the speaker. To fix that you'd have to trace the wires all the way back and make sure. You could also try flipping the front and rear speaker wires behind the radio and seeing if the noise switches to the front speakers. If it does, there may be a problem with the head unit.

The last I heard everything bigger than a Z was on hold until the tooling of the new frame is done. The Z's will require a major soft part redesign to accommodate the new basket and the NS will use it as well. This came straight from Jacob a few months ago. EDIT: For clarification....I have no idea what's been going on since then. The new frames may be done. All I know is that a few months ago when the Z's were released he said that he would redesign their soft parts around the new frame that would be shared with the NSv3

yes i currently have that done, only with 4 gauge though. i desperately need a bigger fuse holder from my alt to my battery. but i guess after i install the battery, ill save up and order a couple feet of 0 gauge and get maybe a 200 or 300amp fuse? idk what size fuse to get put between the alt and the battery. Stock alt shouldn't need bigger than a 150 or 200. Unless of course you have a monstrous stock alt... Noes...you fuse for the wire when the source of current is capable of exceeding the rating of the wire...so if your amp can pull 400 amps and you only have 1 run of 0 gauge you would put a 300. Now..if your source is incapable of exceeding the rating of the wire, you fuse for the source. For example, my Crescendo BC2000 only needs a 200 amp fuse. If I put a 300 amp fuse, then it's useless because if the amp starts to draw over 200 amps due to a malfunction, the fuse won't blow, which defeats the purpose of having a fuse. If his alt malfunctions and starts kicking out 200 amps (which is probably well above what it can produce normally with it being a stock alt and all) we'd want the fuse to blow before the alt catches on fire, even though the 0 gauge wire can handle that current.

My SSA Zcon 18" and my homie's AudioQue HDC3 15" both waiting for homes..... EDIT: And the Crescendo 2k behind it...lol DOUBLE EDIT: AND the wire on the left! How did I not notice these things lol

lmao...what kind of shit is that?

Lighter and Stiffer. Less dense. OP, since you're not going the cone area route you're going to want LOTS of xmax to play down that low. If you want the response to be smooth you also have to figure out where your cabin gain is the strongest and try to level that out, otherwise it'll seem like your box is off (you may get a 3db gain at 35 hz for example, when your box was designed to have a flat response.). Oh and wtf are you playing that gets down to 20 hz, just out of curiosity. I have a 200+ playlist of songs that are sub 30hz but I made/altered most of them myself.

For that I would probably just use T-Nuts like you have in the past for safety. Just make sure it's braced well.

Hmm...the only time I've ever had an issue with the screws backing out is when the baffle is flexing badly. Will the sub be mounted vertically?

That's the truth. I'm just looking for a few pointers from somebody who's been there...I mean sure it looks like I have nothing to lose on paper but shit, time, effort, and money are things DO NOT want to lose out on.

Ok, I know there are a lot of vendors here so I figured I'd ask. A good friend of mine recently came to me with a proposition. He inherited a good bit of inventory of aftermarket JDM parts (not sure on the specifics yet as this is in the baby steps phase) from his dad who ran a small eBay-based business with a few local sales here and there. The thing is, he wants to take it big and make this his living, and has offered me the opportunity to sort of spread the word and maybe buy into the company in it's infancy. First off, I'm one year out of high school and currently at a Community College majoring in Mechanical Engineering and working at a pos fast food joint making ~$600 a month. I'm at a point in my life where I'm wondering if what I'm doing will turn around and feed me later. I do live with my parents (and our relationship is stable, so I don't expect to get kicked out any time soon) but I buy all my own food (I have a special section in the fridge just for my stuff lol) in lieu of paying rent. That's a little personal lol but what I'm trying to get across is that I'm attempting to break into self-sufficiency. I would LOVE to break into the performance scene and be a big part of an independent business but sadly I have NO (nada, zero, zilch,) experience with owning a business. Honestly, I'm not really worried about that yet. What I want to know is...how difficult is it for those who have attempted it, done it, or seen it done? What does it take to be a mega-super-ballin ass eBay seller that maybe has an independent website and is a vendor in multiple places? Also...from a business standpoint, if we're in an empty market (meaning people drive a few hours away to get real performance parts) would it just be more profitable to have a brick and mortar shop that sells parts? I mean...being in the Car Audio community you see it all the time, some guy has a few bucks and calls up an OEM company or somebody starts up a little service that blows up like Toolmaker. I'm not asking for a "road map" per se, but I'm trying to judge how feasible this is. One thing I DO know is that money makes money. By that I mean...you sell enough parts on the side (which he's doing already), get a few decals printed up (which is easy), put together a demo car (94 Nissan 240SX, he already has started work on) and put your name out there and find ways to make your business grow but once again, how feasible is that? Am I in over my head here or is this a golden opportunity?

Its mainly the license plate making all the noise, and where its located, i've tried many techniques to get it to calm down, it still rattles, It also fell off, somehow the clips that hold the screws came out still screwed in and all. im jut glad that person told me. Get an old sponge, and put it behind the License Plate and then tighten it down. Mine has been silent ever since.

Washington...lol Anyway if it was torn that means you pushed it too hard mechanically (it moved too much) and the leads were stretched and torn. If they burnt up that means the leads had more power across them than they could handle which could possibly be from clipping. You say you know it was clipping... The fix is...get the sub reconed and turn the gain down. Period. No more problems after that. Yes it will be quieter.

The AP will probably be cheaper and work fine. The Brutus will...well work fine. Neither are outstanding amps but they will make your sub move. My vote goes for the AP, they're tough little bastards. I've personally seen one put through absolute hell before it blew. EDIT: Fuck me why are you replacing a Slash series with an entry level amp? If the tinsel lead was burnt that's overpowering period so more power is not what you need. Now if it tore or ripped then that's a different problem.

Can I get a price for a Level 2 12", XL 18", and 175.4 to 76708. Thanks in advance.

Nice truck! It's awesome when you get free fixes

Primer dat bish