rockFord_Expedition

Bad ground. Where is your amp mounted? Does it have room to breathe?

Yeah, obviously we would have to send in our DD-1 plus some cash, but it would be nice still.

I decided to ask because I read about it on Steve's instagram. Someone said they heard about the program. It didn't come from the man himself so of course I have to take it with a grain of salt, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I already own a DD-1 and want the + version but can't quite justify spending another $250 on top of the $150 I already spent on the original version. Nahmean?

Anyone heard of such a thing? I did a search and couldn't find anything, but thought it might be something worth asking about.

Nice!

Pics or ban

Go to the XSPower website and plug everything in to their audio calculator. You're welcome

I hope you're joking

Bass knobs are trouble. Don't use it. If you set your gains and allow for some movement on the bass knob then you are losing output at other frequencies. If you don't account for the bass knob and try to boost afterwards, you are creating square waves = bad. What components are you running that they can't take HU power?

How many amps are you running? Why are you using a line driver?

250 is ok, just don't go over the amperage rating for the wire.

Ok then as a starter battery, under the hood the D1200 can support a 1200W system. As a reserve battery the D3100 will support a true 5k so with those two batteries you have enough reserve for a 6k daily system. Remember music is dynamic so unless you are burping or playing test tones, you aren't going to be pulling a constant 5 or 6 k anyways. More batteries than that will not hurt at all, but you don't need them. Make sure your terminations are done well, big3 done proper and you will be good to go. Make sure there is a good clean return path to the alternator. If you are going to run a 320A alt I would run all 1/0 or even better, 2/0 (SHCA ofc is what I recommend but there is other good wire out there). Depending on the configuration under the hood, I would do it 1 of the following ways: (in 1/0 I would double everything, in 2/0 single runs are fine except where noted) Alt + to front bat + Alt + to rear bat + Front bat + to rear bat + (Fused near both batteries) Rear bat + to fused distribution block Dist block to amps or Alt + to front bat + (x2) Front bat + to rear bat + (x2, fused near both batteries) Rear bat + to fused distribution block Dist block to amps

Minimum D1200 under the hood D3400 or D3100 in the back. Is 5kw your total rms, or just bass?

what vehicle?

Is this for a daily system or competing? go to htttp://4xspower.com/2012-XSpower-wattage-chart.pdf In most cases you won't need anything more than a single D3100 in the rear to go with what you have under the hood according to their own chart. I would trust them, it's not like they would try to under sell their products.

Nothing wrong with curiosity. That's how we learn.

Are you serious? That's like saying my walls are going to catch fire because I haven't drawn power from certain outlets in a long time even though the power is sitting right there. Think of the wattage coming from the amplifier as potential. The amp isn't going to bust at the seams bro.

it's called great stuff.... google it. it is awesome

are you trying to seal off your trunk for bass or just want to make your 6x9's sound better?

Just got a peek on some awesomeness on instagram. Get your popcorn ready.

Welcome everyone! Glad to see all of the new members.

How does it slap in the Tahoe Steve?

Is that a type-o? 32 is slim, but 23? Shit Kyle. My bicep is 22. No damn way.